Drawn to the geometric, calligraphic and biomorphic motifs found in Mughal art and architecture, Sunena Malhotra, a teacher of Indian art history and a graphic designer, founded her own brand Zayn by Sunena in 2018. The jewellery brand echoes the artistry that flourished during the historic era with a pared-down aesthetic.
Mughal art and architecture is known for its intricately decorative and elaborate motifs. It is this finery and the elegance of forms and colours that have inspired New Delhi-based Sunena Malhotra ever since she was a young girl.
Sunena Malhotra talks about channelling the subtle nuances of Mughal designs in her latest collection, Arezu.
How did you foray into jewellery design?
I am a graphic designer by profession and a teacher of Applied Art and Art History.
My father introduced me to the world of jewellery at a young age. He would source old and new jewellery from various places and also manufacture some. Finding unique, antique pieces was a passion for him. Growing up, I would sometimes sit with him while he worked just to feed my curiosity. This really ignited my passion.
Designing jewellery has always been at the back of my mind. I would upcycle old, traditional pieces for friends and family. When I was recovering from a serious back injury, it gave me a chance to read up and research Mughal designs and jewellery, most of which were ostentatious and expensive.
I decided to make Mughal-inspired jewellery that is minimalistic, elegant and accessible. I wanted to create modern heirlooms and so Zayn by Sunena Malhotra was launched in 2018. The contemporary pieces have a mix of gold, silver and semi-precious stones. The traditional pieces are crafted in gold.
I am a self-taught jewellery designer, and have picked up different techniques of jewellery along the way — but I owe a lot to my karigars who have taught me so much.
Is there a particular Mughal monument or an object that inspires you?
Mughal design sensibilities are based primarily on geometry, flowers and vegetal elements, birds and animals, and calligraphy. The application of these elements across diverse fields of arts, crafts, architecture and jewellery really appeals to me.
One object which left a lasting impression on me is the rose water sprinkler from the Al Thani Collection. It is delicately embellished and enamelled with gold, rubies, emeralds and pearls.
The combination of geometric patterns with floral motifs in the Pietra Dura (mosaic work using semi-precious stones) and jaalis of the Taj Mahal is another source of inspiration. The list is endless.
Carved gemstones are the focal point in several of your jewellery pieces…
Gemstones are a cardinal aspect of Mughal jewellery and constitute the core identity of kundan-meenakari jewellery. Carved gemstones are special for me as they are a way to incorporate Mughal architectural elements and add texture and a tactile quality to pieces. I specifically use only natural gemstones which are hand carved by karigars. Sometimes I find a brilliant stone and its colour and shape can inspire me to work my design around it. Or I may have a concept in my mind, so we look for a rough stone and get it cut, shaped and carved accordingly.
Tell us about your latest Arezu collection.
Arezu, which comes from the Persian word for desire, features an eclectic mix of semi-precious stones and mother-of-pearl as the base for pendants and rings, which are embellished with polki and jadau work.
Which is your most popular jewellery collection?
The Zayn Crystal collection that features hand carved rock crystals with kundan-set uncut diamonds, rubies, emeralds, aquamarine, tourmaline and rose quartz.
The Holdalis, too, are a favourite, whether in jade, rock crystal or rose quartz. These are traditionally made in jade and embellished with a floral motif highlighted with 24-karat gold and set with gemstones. We also use enamel to enhance these pieces.
The Chauras jade choker and Mynah jade holdali have been well received as we have strung them in a more contemporary and wearable style. Our clients love these for their unique statement detailing and chic appeal.
How has the pandemic impacted your brand?
We retail our jewellery from our studio in New Delhi but during the pandemic, sales have shifted online. Through Instagram, we are getting customers not only from main metro cities but also from tier-2 and tier-3 cities. We are also in the process of setting up our own website.
The best part has been that our clients have seen the beauty of our designs and craftsmanship as an antidote to these uncertain times. Messages saying that our pieces have given them something to smile about in the midst of a pandemic have meant the most to us, as have the opportunities to work with brides to make special pieces for intimate “pandemic weddings”.
A lot of older people are also opting for our jewellery since it is wearable on a daily basis, which is heartening.