IIJS Signature was conceptualised as a show which would be a boutique show, emphasising the work of outstanding designers and design led jewellery manufacturers.  While the show has encompassed a larger segment than what would strictly constitute jewellery brands and high end designer jewellery makers, it has always stood for quality products and quality buyers. Much less crowded – both in terms of number of exhibitors and visitors – than its big brother, the IIJS Premiere Show, Signature also allows for quality interaction between buyers and sellers.

The leading lights of The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council have, for long, been making efforts to enhance the design quotient of the jewellery industry of India. And these endeavours have taken many routes and are at different levels. It is only fitting that in the jewellery to be seen at IIJS Signature 2020, one can see how the various efforts are bearing fruit. So much so, that design is now ingrained in the DNA of several companies, and nowhere is it more evident than in the Signature, or Elite Club section of the show.

There was a time when the concept of designer jewellery evoked visions of elaborate, chunky pieces, sometimes overwrought like an overblown bouquet. But times have changed, tastes have changed and most importantly sensibilities and perspectives have also undergone a transformation with the coming of age of a new, younger segments of consumers – with Millennials and Gen Z dominating today.

Not surprisingly, The Signature Club has it all – from large statement pieces, fit for a bride, to funky cocktail rings, delicate bangle bracelets to neck pieces of every kind. 

Kantilal Chhotalal, specialists in large, superior quality diamonds have cascading neckpieces in diamonds with a touch of green in the way of emeralds. The sheer classicism of the design and the sparkle of diamonds is enough to put a glow on the face of every bride who is lucky enough to wear them.

KGK Jewellery while offering a range of jewellery has some striking statement designer diamond bangle bracelets, which are a statement in themselves.

At the large chunky end of the spectrum is also Sparsh – a winner of The Artisan Jewellery Design Awards 2020 declared on February 12, 2020.  Here pastel coloured gemstones, pearls, polka diamonds and French enamel work all combine to fashion both bridal as well as less ostentatious, but nevertheless striking pieces. Hema Shah of Sparsh says that they have dubbed their jewellery “Young Jadau”. And their tasselled neckpieces are sure to resonate with the desires of the new age consumer. 

Tanvirkumar & Co. takes the tasselled neckpiece theme to sleeker, more modest lines, but nevertheless evoking style and pizzazz. 

At another end of the spectrum, are companies like Priority Jewels, which works with smaller diamonds and also offers some smaller neckpieces, earrings and rings. But each piece has a certain twist and underlying design element which lifts them above the ordinary.

Romil is another manufacturer brand that has always emphasised design. This is evident in the lines and flow in all their jewellery from their neckpieces to their earrings and rings – mainly in diamonds, but occasionally with a touch of colour as well.

Jewelkraft Creations Pvt. Ltd has introduced a new type of product through its Armas collection. They have an emphasis on couple rings and bangle bracelets in 14 and 18 kt green, rose and yellow and white gold, studded with diamonds. Sandip Zaveri from their organisation tells us that theirs is a “100% technology product”. With a parent company which is a machinery manufacturer for the jewellery industry, it was probably only a natural progression from them to venture into machine made jewellery. Most of their jewellery is very Germanic in design and uses different finishes for the gold as well, including textures.

From the collections in the Signature club, it was evident that tasselled neck pieces or cascading and long necklaces have gained immense popularity. The other noticeable aspect was the burgeoning designs of rings – from large, for different fingers, spanning two fingers and so on.

Pic caption: Lounge area in Signature Club section of IIJS 2020