As part of the Spring Webinar Series of the American Gem Society (AGS), ALROSA co-hosted, along with AGS Laboratories, an informative webinar on the business opportunities presented by fluorescent diamonds.

The webinar, “Using Fluorescence to Sell More Diamonds: The Science and the Story”, is said to have attracted “record-breaking registrations” from the jewellery industry. The discussion, which was moderated by Alethea Inns, AGS Director of Gemology & Education Programs had Rebecca Foerster, President of ALROSA U.S. and Jason Quick, Executive Director at AGS Laboratories, participating in the discussion. They provided useful insights into fluorescent diamonds.  

“As the webinar’s discussion and research data showed, customers are interested in learning more about fluorescent diamonds,” ALROSA revealed. “They perceive fluorescence as an original and unusual feature differentiating the diamond and its owner. Recent research shows a positive impact of fluorescence on a diamond’s appearance and proves a significant market potential.”

Explaining the term, ALROSA said that fluorescence is the ability of a diamond to glow under some conditions.

“Most natural diamonds contain atoms of nitrogen in their lattice,” the Company said, elaborating on the theme. “In some crystals, these nitrogen atoms cause a specific reaction to UV rays. Under the black light or the sun, such diamonds exhibit a soft fluorescent glow. A particular “classic blue” fluorescence is unique to natural diamonds. Just a small proportion of all stones has this effect to a considerable intensity. Long known by the diamond miners and dealers, fluorescence remains underexplored and underestimated by jewelers and end consumers.”

"Fluorescent stones are beautiful,” said Rebecca Foerster. “When we bring together all of their benefits – natural origin, uniqueness, hidden beauty, rarity, and introduce them into the story, we create an emotional connection to them. So people can relate to them, and they are even ready to pay a slight premium. Today’s consumers are very different, and they want to see something new, to have something they can own, relate to and share, something that differentiates them from others. It is important for us to create this excitement. Fluorescence is an amazing natural feature that resonates with so many thoughts and feelings."

ALROSA recently conducted a study among more than 2,000 U.S. customers, aged 25-55, who had either purchased diamond jewellery, or received it as a gift within the last 12 months. The results of the study showed that 42% did not know anything about fluorescence; only 11% of the respondents were aware of the feature.

Further, the study showed that once people are informed about it, interest in fluorescent diamond jewellery increases. The study found that in this case, 82% of respondents considered a purchase; and 72%  were willing to pay up to 15%  more for this attractive feature.

"We value what ALROSA is doing for the diamond industry, and the significant contributions they are making towards a greater understanding and appreciation of fluorescence in diamonds," said Jason Quick, Executive Director of AGS Laboratories.

According to AGS Laboratories statistics, as presented by Quick, 94% of all diamonds submitted to the grading laboratory had negligible fluorescence. Very strong fluorescence appeared in just 0.34% of diamonds, while “medium” and “strong” effects were exhibited in 3.6% and 1.5% of all stones respectively.

“Qualitative research conducted in the U.S. in 2019 indicated that consumers’ inability to see a fluorescent diamond’s blue glow does not affect their interest in the concept of inner light,” ALROSA noted. “The idea of a “hidden secret that only you know” resonates well with people. This study indicated that fashion jewellery in which fluorescent diamonds were mixed with non-fluorescent stones excites consumers.”

Also, a study conducted by HRD Antwerp in ‪2018-2019, revealed that even strong fluorescence does not negatively impact a diamond’s appearance, ALROSA pointed out. Rather, in some stones, fluorescence causes a significant colour improvement.  “For example, strong fluorescence may allow a J colour (light yellow tone) diamond to appear under daylight as high as a G (a very slight “warmth” in tone),” ALROSA revealed.

The Company opined that fluorescence could offer industry professionals the “unique opportunity to monetize this natural feature of diamonds by creating new revolutionary products with more added value”.

“Having a full production chain from diamond mining to cutting and polishing, ALROSA sees fluorescence as an interesting and underexplored niche and intends to launch some marketing initiatives in this segment in collaboration with jewellery retailers in key markets,” the Company stressed. “The brand concept that ALROSA is developing will help jewellers bring this idea to their customers, gradually changing industry perceptions by generating consumer demand.”