In an exclusive conversation with Solitaire International, Davide Zerbini, Managing Director of Morellato & Sector Ltd., talks about how India has become a pivotal part of the Italian jewellery giant’s global supply chain and strategic vision. The company is leveraging India’s craftsmanship, technical expertise, and growing infrastructure to reshape its international footprint. As Morellato continues to evolve from a fashion-forward European brand to a global powerhouse, India stands at the heart of this transformation.
You’ve had a growing connection with India in recent years. Can you tell us how that began?
Yes, we actually started our journey in India quite recently — in March 2023. That’s when I first came here. At that time, our company had just acquired one of the largest and most established jewellery retailers in Germany. Our purchasing volume had increased significantly, and we felt it was too risky to rely solely on China for our supply chain, as we had done in the past. That’s when we began diversifying — exploring Southeast Asia, including Thailand and Vietnam — but India quickly became our primary hub.
What makes India such an important destination for you beyond just diversification?
There are several factors. One of the most impressive aspects is the depth of technical knowledge and craftsmanship in India. The artisans and technicians here have a strong command over the entire jewellery production process — from casting to final quality control — all within the same factory. This is quite different from China, where many stages of the process are outsourced. In India, factories tend to be more vertically integrated.
How often do you visit India?
Roughly every quarter. We believe in maintaining close relationships with our partners here.
What percentage of your jewellery sourcing is now done in India?
We’ve already moved about 40–45% of our total gold purchasing to India. We work with several well-regarded jewellery manufacturers in India.
However, India is still catching up in certain areas of silver jewellery — like tubing and mechanical techniques — where China remains ahead for now. But we see India evolving steadily in this direction as well.
Do you also work with manufacturers in Jaipur for gemstone jewellery?
Absolutely. We work with Jaipur-based factories for our diamond and precious stone jewellery. We also source from Noida and other regions to fully tap into India’s diverse manufacturing capabilities.
Morellato is an Italian company. What does Italy still specialise in when it comes to jewellery?
Italy is exceptional when it comes to design and handcrafted work. It’s ideal when manufacturing isn’t involved or is minimal.
How wide is Morellato’s retail footprint across Europe?
We currently have around 700 stores across Italy, France, Germany, and Austria. Our offerings range from fashion jewellery in stainless steel to high-end diamond jewellery, often combined with watches.
Are you expanding into other categories besides jewellery and watches?
Yes, we’re expanding into accessories as well. We already have a watch production facility in Bangalore and have recently started packaging production in Chennai. It’s part of our broader diversification strategy.
Do you foresee further growth in your India operations in the near future?
Definitely. While productivity in India still has room to improve compared to China, the potential here is tremendous. We’re steadily increasing our operations and investment across India, not just in jewellery but also in packaging and accessories. India has become a critical partner in our global ecosystem.
Are you seeing anything particularly exciting on this visit to India?
To be honest, we know the Indian market quite well by now. This trip is more about maintaining relationships and keeping the dialogue going with our partners here.
What is the consumer response to lab-grown diamonds (LGD) in Italy and Europe?
It’s been slower compared to markets like the US, but it’s gradually gaining traction. We’ve invested in our in-house lab-grown diamond brand, Full and Life Diamond, and we’re also incorporating LGDs into our three main brands. However, regulations in Europe — especially in France — require us to label these as “synthetic diamonds,” which adds complexity. Still, we’re seeing a gradual rise in consumer interest.