Drawing from multiple streams of art, Sardwell, Founder & Creative Head of Renisis, New York, brings a unique and compelling vision to life. Her journey is fuelled by a passion for learning through travel and a deep appreciation for diverse cultures.
A sculptress of repute, Sardwell was known for creating large-scale installations for operas and theatre productions. It wasn’t long before her creative lens shifted towards jewellery—a form of artistry reimagined on an intimate, wearable scale.
Her quest to master the craft began with the Miao silversmiths of southern China. But before she could begin her apprenticeship, she first taught herself to speak Mandarin. Later, she travelled to Buenos Aires to work with master jewellers and immerse herself in the world of coloured gemstones—learning Portuguese along the way.
A decade later, she returned to New York and launched Renisis. Her vision? To transform her confluence of experiences in theatre, sculpture, and jewellery into unique and desirable pieces that tell a story far greater than their scale.
Renisis has a deeply sculptural and symbolic approach. Can you share how your background in theatrical installation and sculpture helped you shape your jewellery design language?
At Rhode Island School of Design, I studied sculpture and enjoyed experimenting with different materials, such as wood, bronze, fabric, plaster, wax and silicone. For my thesis, I created large-scale installations of fabric and metal armatures that enveloped the viewer’s senses; inviting them to walk through and touch the installation while lighting danced around it like a character on a theatrical stage.
While developing the brand, I ambitiously wanted to recreate a sensory world within Renisis like the stage of sculptural installations; sculptural jewellery that transcends and transforms the wearer into a more courageous and better version of themselves and high jewels paired with digital art and video that further illustrates this within its miniature architectural world.
What was the turning point that led you from large-scale installation art to fine jewellery?
The turning point that led me from creating large-scale installation art to fine jewellery happened during a discovery trip to visit the minority group, Miao people, in Shidong, Guizhou, China. Staying with a silversmithing family, I was able to experience firsthand the men making ceremonial headdresses and large sculptured fine silver jewellery. Completely inspired by the craftsmanship and culture to make beautiful fine silver metal work with minimal tools, I returned to Shanghai, and decided to start experimenting with fine silver and the journey in jewellery began.
Your global journey—from Buenos Aires to China to Brazil—clearly shaped your aesthetic. Which cultural traditions or visual languages have left the deepest imprint on your work? What were the takeaways from these trysts?
My global journeys have shaped my overall aesthetic. Each country’s cultural traditions and visual languages have influenced and inspired my work.
In Buenos Aires, I had the unique opportunity to intern in the sculpture department at the Teatro Colon, the national opera house. Building large sets for Opera Turandot, I fell in love with the drama, transformation and storytelling of the stage. These characteristics are an important part of the Renisis DNA.
Later in China, and travelling to other parts of Asia, such as Japan, distinct architecture, pearls, jade and cultural crafts continue to inspire my jewellery forms and material choices.
In Brazil, the colourful landscapes and playful culture continue to influence new collections to come. Renisis and its design aesthetics are a culmination of my cultural journey.
The brand name “Renisis” evokes transformation. What does it mean to you personally, and how is this reflected in your collections?
Renisis—a fusion of “renitor” and “genesis”—suggests both struggle and rebirth and represents the essence of my creative journey and process. I believe that we constantly need to transform, to innovate, to push boundaries and dare ourselves to do better. It is a growth mindset that is always looking to evolve and move forward towards a new path of discovery.
As I reflect on the current pieces and design new ones, I question myself: how I can design pieces so that they continue to look and feel unique, special and fresh.
Your debut collections, Evidence of the Future and Curl, explore themes of armour and intimacy. How do you balance opposing ideas—such as strength and vulnerability—in your design language?
In my debut collections, Evidence of the Future and Curl, many of the jewellery pieces balance opposing ideas such as strength and vulnerability, light and dark, masculine and feminine, straight and curved forms. I like to design pieces that balance opposing ideas creating dynamic tension, drama and interest like a theatrical opera. Some examples are black jade juxtaposed against bright sparkling diamonds and curved soft sensual pearls placed with an angular architectural clasp.
You use materials like black jade, South Sea pearls, and inverted diamonds in unexpected ways. How do you choose your gemstones, and what role does symbolism play in that selection?
Material consideration and selection are very important to my creative process. I select the highest quality materials that are unusual or set in unexpected ways to create a piece of jewellery that will set it apart from others.
In the Evidence of the Future, inspired by culture and travels in Asia, I chose materials that originate from this area of the world to create a conceptually strong collection. For example, many pieces use black jade, known as a grounding guardian stone, juxtaposed and sensitively contrasted with icy jade, believed to resolve chaos, restore calm and entice good fortune.
Material symbolism brings an emotional power and allure, and the materials illuminate brighter and stronger in the true spirit of Renisis.
Many of your pieces reveal hidden details known only to the wearer. Can you elaborate on the idea of incorporating a secret element in jewellery?
My jewellery pieces are small sculptures deeply considered from every angle and play of light and shadow. As with art, broad strokes of concept and craftsmanship are balanced with smaller hidden details, such as fluorescent stone patterns that glow alive under black light, showcased in our Light Halo necklace and bracelet. I believe these secret elements create a sense of discovery, awe and are truly magical.
You’ve described your jewellery as “emotional architecture” …
When I step into an architectural space, I feel the energy and emotional charge through its design of light, shadow and shape. It evokes emotions of awe, discovery and nostalgic memories, like a secret aura dust connecting us to its unique history and culture. Inspired by these architectural shapes and the emotions they evoke, I often incorporate the shapes or motifs into the jewellery design itself.
One example is the Guardian Temple Pendant, architectural, strong and sturdy like a temple, with a mirrored pool reflection of diamonds and a South Sea pearl eye. It is a sturdy masculine form yet soft and shimmering with light and floral shibori inspired patterns and is an art piece that I hope sways us to look within the eye and reflect upon our inner emotional core.
Who is the Renisis wearer?
The Renisis wearer is an individual who has a sophisticated taste and refined elegance, with a deep appreciation for innovative art and design. The Renisis wearer wants to express his/herself in a unique, individualistic way. I design with that individual in mind and continually push to create work that is unique and refined.
What emotional or spiritual experience do you hope someone has when wearing your jewellery?
When someone wears a Renisis piece for the first time, I hope they first see the jewellery pieces as works of art made with incredible materials and beautiful craftsmanship. As the wearer discovers further, I hope that the hidden details emerge and bring delight and awe. Finally, the piece must reveal an inner light and transformational power.
Why was Jensen Stern the right partner for Renisis’ public debut?
I am very grateful and honoured to be showcasing our collections at Jensen Stern amongst designers that I truly admire for their creativity and craftsmanship. Jensen Stern is a destination for individuals with incredibly refined and discerning taste for art and the unusual. And these individuals are our core clientele.
Renisis has already gained recognition with the JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards. How has this acknowledgement influenced your path forward?
I am very excited about the recognition with JCK Jeweler’s Choice Awards for our Triple Infinity Loop Earrings and Curl Ear Cuff. Such awards allow me to be noticed in the industry and have encouraged me to continue on this unique path and innovative vision. We must be doing something right!
What can collectors and admirers expect next from Renisis—are new collections or collaborations on the horizon?
In the short term, Renisis will further develop its current collections, Evidence of the Future and Curl. In the long term, I hope to build new collections that incorporate unusual diamonds and coloured stones with unique innovative materials.