This avant-garde designer can turn embellished octopuses into striking wall art or pin-up brooches—forms that can exist as both adornment and collectibles.
Hong Kong-based ELSON LUK, a first-generation jewellery designer and the founder of Zheng Hong Collective, is known for creating sculptural, high-end jewellery that balances structure, symbolism, and contemporary form. His work exists at the intersection of craftsmanship and conceptual design, shaped by his cross-cultural perspective. What makes his artistry stand out is a deep respect for heritage craftsmanship, which he reinterprets through architectural lines and narrative-driven motifs, creating pieces that feel at once intellectual, ornamental, and audacious. In a special interview with Solitaire, Luk speaks about his journey into jewellery, the philosophy behind Zheng Hong Collective, and the ideas that shape his unconventional approach to design.
Are you a first-generation jeweller? If yes, why did you choose jewellery designing?
Yes, I am a first-generation jeweller. My academic background was in Hospitality Management, followed by a Master’s in International Business. Jewellery was not something I inherited. It was something I chose.
My earliest memories of jewellery are connected to my mother. Watching her select pieces shaped my understanding of how jewellery carries emotion, memory, and identity. Over time, that fascination evolved into a desire to create something personal and original.
Your works of art look highly sculptural. Did you also study sculpture?
Although I did not formally train as a sculptor, I have always been drawn to structure and volume. I think in three dimensions. My work naturally developed a sculptural presence because I approach fine jewellery as form in dialogue with the body. Each piece must hold strength, intention, and clarity.
Zheng Hong Collective has developed a very distinct visual language. What was the original idea behind founding the collective, and how has that vision evolved over time?
Zheng Hong Collective was founded in 2024 at a defining moment in my life. I felt compelled to pursue something more authentic and aligned with my creative instincts.
From the beginning, the vision was clear. I wanted to build a brand grounded in craftsmanship and detail, yet unapologetically contemporary. Guided by the belief that fine jewellery should be both original and lasting, Zheng Hong Collective was created as an ongoing dialogue between innovation and heritage.
Over time, that vision has matured into a disciplined philosophy. Each collection reinforces the idea that jewellery is not merely decorative. It carries purpose, identity, and permanence.
Your work often feels more like wearable art than conventional jewellery… Do you see your creations primarily as adornment, artistic expression, or a dialogue between the two?
It is a dialogue. Fine jewellery, to me, exists between purpose and form. It must be wearable, yet it must also hold conceptual weight. I approach each design as part of an ongoing conversation where structure meets movement and heritage meets contemporary expression.
There is a quiet strength in adornment. A piece can alter posture, confidence, and presence. When jewellery resonates beyond surface beauty, it becomes more than ornament. It becomes an extension of identity.
What usually comes first in your process — the concept, the material, or the form?
The concept always leads. I design cohesive collections that include bracelets, necklaces, pendants, earrings, and brooches. Each collection is anchored by a central narrative, ensuring continuity across forms.
Material is then chosen with intention. The dialogue between these materials reflects the brand philosophy. Innovation must respect heritage. Modernity must honour craftsmanship.
Which metals do you typically work with?
I primarily work with 18-karat gold and titanium. Gold remains fundamental to my practice because it embodies longevity and reverence for tradition, and emotional permanence. It carries weight beyond aesthetics.
Titanium introduces adaptability and expressive colour, allowing greater freedom in sculptural articulation in a contemporary context.
Together, they express the balance that defines Zheng Hong Collective. Strength and fluidity. Tradition and defiance.
We are intrigued by the name Zheng Hong Collective. Is it a collective of artists that allows room for experimentation and evolution?
Although Zheng Hong Collective was founded by me, jewellery is inherently collaborative. I am devoted to craftsmanship, and each design is realised through the hands of highly skilled artisans.
The word Collective acknowledges that shared excellence. Behind every finished piece is a commitment to detail and technical mastery.
At the same time, the name reflects evolution. Creativity thrives on exchange. Zheng Hong Collective is guided by a singular vision, yet open to dialogue, growth, and refinement.
Contemporary jewellery is increasingly crossing into the space of collectible art. Where do you see this movement heading, and what role do artists such as Elson Luk play in shaping that shift?
Fine jewellery is reclaiming its position as both art and legacy. There is a growing understanding that a jewel can embody narrative, craftsmanship, and conceptual intention. Unlike objects confined to display, jewellery lives with the wearer. It moves through life’s transitions and becomes part of personal history.
I believe the future lies in strengthening authorship and integrity. When design is rooted in authenticity and discipline, it naturally enters the realm of collectible art. That responsibility begins with intention and ends with execution.
Which cultural, artistic, or personal influences most strongly shape your design philosophy today? Why the fascination with the Octopus?
Growing up in Hong Kong and studying in the United Kingdom and the United States shaped my perspective. The intersection of cultures informs my balance between structure and symbolism.
My mother remains my earliest influence. Through her, I understood that jewellery is an intimate expression of self.
The octopus became my muse because it embodies adaptability, resilience, and intelligence. It moves fluidly through changing environments, yet possesses remarkable strength. Its form is organic yet controlled.
Within Zheng Hong Collective, the octopus represents the spirit of being born to defy. To adapt. To endure. To move confidently through life’s transitions while remaining distinct.
How important is experimentation in your process?
Experimentation is essential to refinement. A design may begin with clarity, but once realised, it must respond to proportion, gravity, and movement. Jewellery exists in motion. An earring, for example, must balance visually and physically when worn.
Through continuous adjustment, the piece finds equilibrium. This process strengthens the work. It ensures that each creation is not only conceptually sound but structurally resolved.
Any sign-off message?
Zheng Hong Collective was founded on the belief that fine jewellery should be original, intentional, and enduring.
Born to defy, the brand continues to pursue craftsmanship that speaks with authenticity. Each piece is designed to move through life’s many transitions and to leave a lasting impression.