The Thrissur-based architect-turned-jewellery designer, Harsha Ambady, has debuted a line of demi-fine wearables under her eponymous brand. The collection Align consists of geometric forms that unfold across 15 pieces.
Thrissur-based Harsha Ambady trained as an architect before deciding to launch her own line of demi-fine jewellery. Her debut collection, Align, is crafted with 18-karat gold-plated brass and consist of 15 pieces.
Some of the designs feature custom-cut cylindrical labradorite stones. “The styles range from dainty to medium sized. The choker and the statement earrings are the most elaborate pieces in the collection,” says Harsha, whose aesthetic draws on spatial design principles of form making, perspective and the interplay of mass and void.
She reminisces her inclination towards artistic activities such as sketching, music and embroidery. “I would hand-stitch dresses for the dolls; pick up broken beads and metal connectors from my mother’s jewellery box and remake them into earrings and anklets.”
She knew she was good with handmaking miniature products and dreamt of studying jewellery design at NIFT or NID that had introduced a new product-accessory design programme.
“I took the entrance tests but unfortunately didn’t get through and my dream of becoming a jewellery designer was shattered.” Architecture was Plan B. She studied at the University School of Design, Mysore University. The course helped Harsha broaden her perspective as a designer.
“I fell in love with geometry and realised I had a strong affinity towards it, while studying the course.” She worked for a year with an architecture firm in Ahmedabad, but her desire to lean into jewellery design grew stronger by the day.
Harsha, then, did a one-year diploma at the Indian Institute of Jewellery, in Mumbai. “The course took us through design, 3D creation and the manufacturing process. The thesis was designed and manufactured by the students themselves. And I had finally become what I had dreamt of becoming,” she adds.
Where did you hone your skills?
I started learning on the job. I considered the initial years as my opportunity to gain experience, practice and upgrade my skills. I took up freelance projects along with full-time jobs and that, I feel, was a great decision. Although a hustle, it was worth it. I also got to work with some great brands and several exciting projects.
What are some of the interesting projects you have worked on?
I worked with Isharya from 2015-2018. I then freelanced for brands based overseas.
From 2019, I became a full-time freelancer and worked with brands — Ettika, Christina Greene, Sarah Gauci, Boho Magic Jewelry and Fyne — based in US, UK, Canada, and Dubai. The aesthetic was more modern and cleaner.
I have also worked with brands that are into geometry, floral, and the fast-fashion realm. At The Accessory Think Tank, a New York-based creative agency, I worked for two years as a designer on multiple new brands and led their product development. Working on versatile projects across the years helped broaden my perspective, while also prompting me to break away from my own limitations.
What led you to launch your namesake brand?
I have been wanting to launch my own brand and finally had the courage to do so now. I noticed that while there are a few young modern jewellery brands based in the other regions of India, there is not one such brand rooted in Kerala, a land that has such a vast rich cultural background. I wanted to base the brand on geometry because that is my strength as a designer. I rely on my experience of working with international brands to create designs that are of interest to a global audience. I look forward to growing as a global brand.
What materials do you work with?
Over the span of ten years, I mostly worked with brass and silver as the base materials. I have also worked with gold and precious stones.
For my brand, I wanted to work with a semi-precious metal because you can design dainty or statement pieces and it would still be affordable.
I have always loved and enjoyed working with gemstones — so, gemstones will always be a part of my collections. Having worked with factories across India, Thailand, and China for other brands, I have seen and experienced finishing and quality issues and how it can cost you money as well as lower the brand value. I wanted to make sure that my brand gives the best quality because that’s what I would want for myself.
What is your design aesthetics rooted in?
The brand’s design aesthetic is modern, minimal, and clean. I don’t intend to create pieces that mimic architecture but rather infuse my work with details from art, architecture, and culture — and translate it into modern forms.
Tell us about your debut collection, Align, and the inspiration for the line.
I wanted to base my launch collection, Align, on something close to my roots. The shape of the Align statement earrings, for instance, are derived from the ancient stepwells, this again is not a literal interpretation. I love the idea of how a lot of our ancestral homes had their own kolams or ponds. Most of our temples have an ‘ambala kolam’ (the temple pond), which looks stunning even today because they are maintained well.
The stepped metal is indicative of the stepwells. The custom-cut cylindrical labradorite stone that hangs from the earrings represents water. I found a great manufacturing partner, who crafts the designs with perfection just the way I had envisioned. It took me a year to design, get the samples made, and launch my brand and the Align collection. I have used bold lines, stepped metal, mass and void to create this collection. For the product photography too, I wanted to make sure that there is a play of light and shadow.