IIJS Premiere Proves to Be Industry’s Design Powerhouse

diamond jewellery magazine

The Union Budget 2024 has revitalized the industry, driving demand for jewellery and enhancing our competitive edge. This has infused IIJS Premiere 2024 with renewed energy and optimism, propelling it forward with positive momentum.

This year has been a remarkable one in terms of orders booked at the IIJS Premiere 2024. Attracting buyers from both international and domestic markets, the show floors at both JWCC and BEC have been buzzing with excitement.

Solitaire International engaged with exhibitors at both JWCC and BEC to explore the factors behind the upbeat atmosphere and the popular categories at the shows.

Ashish Sand, Partner, Savio Jewellery was one among the many happy exhibiting participants. He revealed: “This marks our 14th year at the 40th edition of IIJS, and the response has been overwhelming. With 3,600 booths this year, I have no doubt that IIJS will continue to soar in the coming years.

We’re particularly excited about being part of the newly introduced Select Club for designer couture jewellery. The Council has been very selective in choosing exhibitors, so it’s an honour to be included.

The turnout has been astonishing, with buyers from the GCC countries, Uzbekistan, Japan, the UK, and the USA visiting our booth—far exceeding our expectations. We’ve expanded our Emeraldo collection, which has become a new trend post-Ambani wedding, and customers are loving it. I’m thrilled and eagerly looking forward to the upcoming season.”

Day 1 at JWCC happened to be the busiest for almost all the exhibitors. Priyal Shanker, Principal Director, SJW Shivam Jewels Pvt Ltd, a natural diamond manufacturer from Mumbai, endorsed it. “The show floor was busy, and we met a lot of international buyers. For those attendees who were looking for loose diamonds, the overall sentiment seemed to be an uptick and price stability in the last couple of weeks and controlled supply in the time ahead has led them to actually consider stocking. The success of day one also gets credited to brilliant idea of splitting the exhibitors in an astute manner such that the crowd is made to visit both locations of IIJS.”

On model: Emerald and diamond paisley ring and earrings. By D’yne Jewellery

Naman Kala of Kalajee Jewellery, noted, “The exhibition has been exceptional, with quality buyers in impressive numbers. Retailers are excited about our new collections and eager to restock for the upcoming season. We’ve had visitors from across India, including Mumbai, Delhi, Chandigarh, Jalandhar, Ludhiana, Guwahati, Ahmedabad, and Hyderabad, as well as a few from Dubai. Independent stores and multi-store owners alike are in a buying mood, and notably, over 40% of our interactions have been with new customers.

There’s strong demand for colourstone-based polki jewellery, especially emerald, tanzanite, and pink tourmaline. Our earrings, priced between Rs.1 lakh to Rs.3.5 lakhs, have been particularly popular. The new Select Club has been a hit, with buyers appreciating the convenience of having all couture jewellery makers on the same floor, which encourages them to spend more time in this section of the show.”

Ombre structured earrings set with polkis, pearls and emeralds. By Kalajee Jewellery

Karan Garodia of Sanskriti Jewels, stated, “Order bookings have been extraordinary, with the first day at JWCC being our best ever. We’ve received a phenomenal response, especially for our new Baisakh collection, along with strong interest in all our other collections.

Retailer buyers from across India, particularly from the South, have been on a buying spree. The focused presence in the convenient Select Club has also attracted international buyers.

We welcomed several new buyers as well. The demand is clear—buyers are seeking two things: saleable, price-point jewellery and unique, original creations.

Brooches are in high demand, and buyers are consistently looking for jewellery that is new, saleable, unique, original, and competitively priced, with a focus on finesse and service. For us, products priced under Rs.10 lakhs are performing exceptionally well.”

The brooch is designed with tanzanite slices and round pink sapphires. By Sanskriti Jewels

Exhibitors from the gold section have noted a significant shift in northern retailers, who are increasingly focused on gold and diamond products—once a hallmark of the South. Deepak Seth of S K Seth Jewellers explains, “Northern retailers are becoming more aspirational. They are learning from the South’s successful big chain stores and premium brands. Now, they want to offer similar exclusive, high-quality products in their own cities, reducing the need for customers to travel elsewhere.”

He adds, “Northern clients are upgrading their stores and seeking premium, heavy jewellery to match the exclusivity found in cities like Hyderabad and Bangalore. Despite high gold prices, there’s a strong demand for these premium products. Retailers are optimistic, especially with the festive and wedding seasons approaching.”

Seth also highlights, “The recent reduction in gold prices and favorable government policies, such as duty drawbacks, have motivated retailers. The government recognizes the role of gold in stabilizing the economy, as seen during past economic downturns. By allowing public investments in gold, they support both economic stability and individual wealth creation.”

There’s an intriguing trend of regional crossover in design preferences. Northerners are gravitating towards stylised temple jewellery, while Southern buyers are leaning towards prêt wear kundan and jadau pieces. Charu Sarawgi, Founder and Creative Head of Darpan, notes: “The response to the show has been excellent, with strong interest from both existing and new clients. Buyers from southern cities like Bangalore, Hyderabad, Chennai, Tirupur, Vijayawada, and Mysore have shown particular enthusiasm. Our range, priced between Rs.50,000 and Rs.5,00,000, saw the most demand in the Rs.1,00,000 to Rs.3,00,000 segment, favouring unique and versatile designs.”

Avnip Kothari of Vasupati Jewellers, unveiled some special collections for the show and received a fabulous response from repeat buyers as well as new buyers, particularly from northern India.  “Our ‘Mandala Mystique,’ is an exclusive bridal collection that transforms mandalas into stunning 3D masterpieces. Each piece blends traditional Indian techniques with modern innovation, including casting, aari cutting, and filigree. Featuring 20 exquisite bridal sets—necklaces, chokers, earrings, pendants, chains, rings, and bangles—this collection captures the essence of Indian artistry in a contemporary form. Our exclusive Aurum collection in various tones of gold, engravings and textures is entirely handcrafted, which has been appreciated by our buyers,” he explained.

Ashish Goyal of GDK Jewels shared that the IIJS Premiere show was one of the best in recent times. “Buyers are particularly drawn to bridal collections priced under Rs.15 lakhs, with a growing interest in coloured gemstones paired with diamonds. Retailers are increasingly adventurous with their inventory, and in high-end prêt wear, the popular price range is between Rs.5 lakhs and Rs.10 lakhs. Kunzites and morganites are trending in fine jewellery due to their attractive pricing—good quality stones range from Rs.2,000 to Rs. 8,000. Additionally, pastel hues, whether through enamelling or gemstones, are gaining popularity as they complement evening attire and party wear.”

Chhaya Jain, Sensuel Jewels commented, “We’ve welcomed several new buyers who have expressed great interest in our collection. The buying patterns are diverse, with demand spanning bridal necklaces, everyday jewelry, tennis bracelets, cocktail rings, and funky earrings. In terms of price points, items priced between Rs. 2,50,000 and Rs.12,00,000 are being booked swiftly, while pieces above Rs.12,00,000 are typically for special occasions, particularly brides.

Popular categories include tennis bracelets, cocktail rings, chic collars, chokers, and modern gold chains with diamond pendants. Earrings, such as hoops and studs, and simple diamond-oriented bracelets are also in demand. While colour stones are still popular, they are used more sparingly than before, focusing on single standout pieces rather than an overdose.”

Nature-inspired gold cuff set with diamonds, rose cuts and emeralds. By Farah Khan

Anand Shah, of the eponymous brand, said: “We’re managing a high volume of orders, and the reduction in duties has made a significant impact. Initially, I expected there would be a preference for lightweight jewellery, but surprisingly, we’ve seen strong sales in heavyweight pieces.  Priority is given to good design is clear. Buyers are focusing on quality designs and not metal weight, and this trend is noticeable across both North and South regions. Overall, it’s been a positive experience with growing demand and satisfaction all around.”

Siddharth Sawansukha of Sawansukha Jewellers, stated: “This is the ideal platform we’ve been seeking, particularly the Select Club, which we’ve thoroughly enjoyed. We suggest spacing out the overlapping days by at least two days to allow ample time for visitors to explore and return. This adjustment would enhance the experience for both exhibitors and attendees. Overall, we had fantastic interactions, especially with those interested in diamond jewelry. The communication and on-the-spot transactions were excellent.”

Uma Ornaments renowned for its diamond jewellery collections, specialising in light to mid-range fine couture and fusion jewellery found high demand at IIJS Premiere, for their ‘His Jewelry collection’ featuring an expertly designed, sleek range for men. Blending classicism with a contemporary edge, the collection consists of designer bracelets, link chains, and striking rings, set with diamonds and ceramic stones.

Men’s collection in rose gold, diamonds and ceramic. By Uma Ornaments

Chintan Sakariya of Vama Fine Jewels, commented: “Exhibiting at the Select Club at Jio has been a wonderful experience. I was eager to be among like-minded, grandiose participants, and the quality of the show has certainly met those expectations. I’m confident that participating in the Select Club will continue to be beneficial for both exhibitors and visitors in future shows. The event was not only beautifully organized but also highlighted exquisite jewelry pieces, reflecting a deep passion and dedication.”

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