The India Pavilion, presented by GJEPC, received an encouraging response at INHORGENTA this year, even against a challenging geo-political and economic backdrop. Buoyed by the momentum of the recently signed India–EU Free Trade Agreement, exporters are optimistic about a stronger push towards market diversification for the gem and jewellery sector. The landmark agreement is expected to accelerate growth, with bilateral trade projected to reach $10 billion within the next three years. Richa Goyal Sikri reports.
The first impression as you walk into the INHORGENTA trade show in Munich is of sleek, professional presentation. The registration process, the branding on the wall, the seamless security, all exude German efficiency and a sophisticated elegance. Split across six large halls at the Messe München exhibition centre, the show featured around 900 exhibitors (55% international) with 1,200 brands from 35 countries, attracting 25,000 trade visitors from 95 countries.
INHORGENTA is one of the premier shows in Europe for precious stones, watches, fine and high jewellery, and ancillary products and services.
The show’s theme was ‘Craftsmanship’, with visitors experiencing gemstone setting, engraving, watch assembly, along with a special showcase of exceptional jewellery artists showing their craft.
Panel discussions and talks were held in hall B2 under Trendfactory, which covered a plethora of topics ranging from responsible sourcing, artificial intelligence, design, branding, marketing, gemstone mining, and author talks and presentations, which saw me present colourful insights from my book, No Stone Unturned: The Hunt For African Gems. Dr. Laurent Cartier from SSEF was one of the featured curators for the talks and moderated many of the panel discussions related to precious stones.
The upheaval caused by imposing high import tariffs by the US government, geo-political tensions worldwide, and an economic downturn in China is motivating stakeholders in the Indian gem and jewellery trade to expand their client base, which has led to many first-time participants at the INHORGENTA show from India, under the GJEPC banner and as independents.
“This year, we are proud to have nine Indian companies exhibiting under the GJEPC banner at INHORGENTA,” shared a senior representative of GJEPC. “Shows like these are gateways for Indian manufacturers and exporters to connect with European and global buyers, forging meaningful B2B partnerships.
With the India-EU FTA on the horizon, the Council expects significant tariff reductions. Historically, Indian jewellery faced duties of around 4% or more in EU markets. Once these are reduced or eliminated, Indian gems and jewellery become even more price-competitive in Europe. This preferential access has the potential to boost export volumes, strengthen market share, and elevate the reach of Indian designs and brands across EU countries, a core priority for GJEPC.
Voices From The India Pavilion
For the last 35 years, Param Export has specialised in making natural diamonds inspired by antique facet-patterns and forms such as step, rose and old cuts alongside fancy shapes. “These diamonds are very popular in the market right now,” explains Hardik Donda, who is a partner in the business. “We are taking part for the first time at the INHORGENTA show with a view to expanding our footprint in Europe. We already have a few clients in Switzerland and Germany, and we want to build further on this foundation.”
Venus Jewel is a large-scale player in the diamond industry, specialising in modern diamond cuts and fancy shapes. “Both the US and Europe have distinct mindsets, cultures, and differing customer preferences,” explains Janam Shah from Venus Jewels. “In Europe, if you are not a familiar face, customers are unlikely to approach you first. The product demands of European clients don’t directly reach India because they are routed via companies based in Antwerp that understand the European market and provide local services. Our company has been established for 55 years, and over time we have built multiple customer relationships in Europe, including Antwerp. We are at INHORGENTA to support our current clients in the region and to build new relationships.”
For decades, India has been respected as a formidable B2B manufacturing powerhouse. But history shows that nations conditioned to serve global retailers often find it harder to cultivate internationally resonant, customer-facing brands with a distinctive design voice.
What feels different today is not a shift away from B2B (which remains vital and world-class) but an expansion of identity. India is no longer only the engine behind other people’s brands; it is confidently building its own. Designers and jewellery houses from India are stepping onto the global stage with clarity of aesthetic, narrative depth and manufacturing excellence to match. This period of evolution can only be described as a golden age of jewellery design and craftsmanship.
Sanjay Garg of Indigo Jewellery brought their latest premier jewellery collection to INHORGENTA. He shared: “Our company started over five decades ago as diamantaires. Today we cut and polish diamonds in Surat and Botswana and have sales offices in New York, Dubai, Hong Kong, and Antwerp. In 1999, we began making jewellery in Mumbai and today produce over a thousand jewellery pieces per day. But we saw a gap in the high-end jewellery segment. Our experience and understanding of the quality expectations of international clients led us to develop a premium jewellery line. To be honest, we were not sure how our jewellery would be received at the show, but we are happy with the positive feedback. It’s our first-time, and we are encouraged by the reaction of the market to our work.”
The Diamond Group
Beyond India, a notable pavilion was that of The Diamond Group, which was full of retailers sourcing natural diamond fine jewellery until the show closed.
One of the most colourful stands belonged to the jewellery brand Histoire d’Elle Jewelry. “We find the INHORGENTA show more professional than some of the other shows in Europe,” shares Pascale Van Maele, the founder, and creative force behind the brand. “The quality of visitors is of a higher level, more serious in our experience, many from Germany and neighbouring countries, not so many from England, which we see at other shows. But we met international buyers from North America. In our experience, German retailers prefer to remain with the same suppliers, but we hope that changes and buyers have a more mind towards different jewellery styles.”
Speaking to exhibitors, the European market for natural diamonds, gems, and jewellery is impacted by the sharp rise of gold and silver, but the industry remains positive as it seeks alternatives. Jewellery designers are turning to platinum, a trend that harks back to early 20th-century Europe. “Platinum right now is cheaper than gold while being 8 times rarer,” explains Kathrin Schoenke, Director KNS Platinum Solutions Pvt. Ltd. “In fact, it has many attributes that make it preferable over gold and silver, it is hypoallergenic, doesn’t tarnish, is extremely strong, making it ideal for gem and diamond setting. Platinum prongs are stronger and have a lower risk of cracking or breaking, and can be made finer than gold prongs (hence covering a less area of the diamond or gemstone).”
Schoenke adds, “With platinum still a small market compared to gold,” Schoenke explains, “limited domestic availability of components like chains, earring screws, omega clips, and lever backs restricts manufacturers’ creativity. The bigger concern is the lack of 950-grade platinum solders. Since solder can make up 8–10% of a piece, using low-platinum commercial solders risks compromising both the required 950 purity standard by the international market and the durability of the final jewel.”
Another alternative solution to gold and silver jewellery at INHORGENTA was presented by Heinrich Gems. Combining technological innovation with craftsmanship, the company is creating bangles, earrings, and rings using epoxy-laminated carbon fibres that are lightweight but resilient, with a fibre pattern shimmering across the surface in a matt finish. The dark tones offer the perfect backdrop to allow diamonds and gems to take centre stage.
International trade shows are being held against a backdrop of uncertainty and caution. During tumultuous periods, gem, and jewellery purchases may become more considered, less impulsive, perhaps more value-led, but they don’t stop. And this is reflected in the reports from exhibitors at INHORGENTA.
The market is under tremendous pressure, but it is holding its ground, because jewels are and always will be tangible ambassadors of our emotions, how we record the passage of time and a life well loved.