“My time at GIA was life changing. Moving to New York was a significant decision, the discipline and experience I gained have been invaluable.”
Niharika Shekhawat, GIA Graduate Gemologist®, House of Sunita Shekhawat
“My father was certain GIA was the best choice for gemology, and this focus on education greatly contributed to our success.”
Digvijay Shekhawat, GIA Graduate Gemologist® and GIA Comprehensive CAD/CAM for Jewelry Graduate, House of Sunita Shekhawat
Can you share the story behind the founding of the House of Sunita Shekhawat and how it has evolved over the years?
Niharika: When you think about evolution, it’s not just a grand, sweeping change but a series of small, incremental shifts that happen every day, often without you even noticing. Whether it’s how you conduct a conversation or how you design jewelry, you’re constantly evolving.
When you look at the journey of our brand – House of Sunita Shekhawat – one major evolution was when the label, which was started by my mother, transitioned into a family-owned business that carries on a legacy. In India, people have a strong culture of craftsmanship, but creating a brand from that craftsmanship is less common. Craftsmanship has always been a critical aspect of our brand’s evolution. You want to change the way people perceive craft in branding. It’s not just about being expensive—true branding comes from well-crafted work. This is an evolution we strive for every day.
Another significant evolution has been in the form of women’s role in business. Traditionally, when you think about legacy brands in India, it’s the men in the family who take over. But things are changing. When I was studying at GIA, you saw many women interested in jewelry, but they didn’t always make it into the business. I was fortunate that my parents evolved their mindset early on, introducing me to the jewelry business at the right age. For us, it wasn’t just about passing the baton; it was about ensuring that both my brother and I were equally prepared to carry it forward.
What are some of the key milestones in the brand’s journey that you are particularly proud of?
Digvijay: I recently had a memorable conversation with my father about the jewelry we created for the Ambani wedding. He mentioned that this is the kind of achievement we’ll share with future generations—that we were not only invited to the wedding, but also created their jewelry. It’s a proud moment for our craft and a significant mark of approval.
Being involved in such a high-profile event goes beyond just completing a project; it serves as a testament of our excellence. When a prestigious family like the Ambanis select your work, it suggests that you are among the best, both nationally and internationally, from their perspective. While I don’t want to sound boastful, receiving such recognition was deeply fulfilling.
Reflecting on that conversation made me think about how I’ll pass these stories down to my own children. It evoked a strong sense of nostalgia and pride in our family’s achievements. It was a recent highlight that truly resonated with me.
Niharika: One of the biggest milestones for us has been creating the Museum of Meenakari Heritage (MoMH). This project represents the culmination of 25 years of hard work from my parents, as well as efforts of me and Digvijay. It’s been a decade for me in the business and working on this museum felt
like preparing for an Oscar moment. People often ask how long it took, but it’s more than just the three and a half years of work—it’s a testament to decades of dedication and effort. This project stands as a significant milestone for us. Another milestone that I cherish is working alongside my brother Digvijay. Being able to collaborate closely with family is something I’m very grateful for. Typically, family members are separated, especially as women marry and move away. I feel fortunate that we’ve chosen to work together in this family business. It’s a special milestone because the emotional connection drives our brand, and having that personal involvement is deeply satisfying.
On a micro level, there are moments of immediate gratification that also stand out. For example, recently a family from Dhaka, Bangladesh, visited our Delhi store. They’ve been clients since my mother’s earlier years in the business, and it made me happy to see that they are just as comfortable dealing with us. It’s reassuring to know that we have been able to survive through a change in face. These smaller milestones, like smooth transitions and customer satisfaction, are what I celebrate daily. They contribute to the bigger picture and keep me motivated, even more than external accolades.
Commentary by Niharika: Designing the facade was a journey of reconciling tradition with modernity. We aimed to create a space that honors local craftsmanship and our heritage, rather than adopting a Western style. The result is a structure that embodies our values and complements its surroundings, illuminated beautifully at dusk.
What inspired the creation of the Museum of Meenakari Heritage (MoMH) and can you talk us through some of the most significant pieces or collections on display?
Niharika: The idea for the museum emerged during the pandemic. My mother wanted to highlight Meenakari art but preferred to have someone else tell our story. We reached out to Dr. Usha R. Balakrishnan, a leading jewelry historian and she agreed to collaborate. Her involvement was essential.
I managed the project, coordinating between my mother and Dr. Balakrishnan. We secured permissions from more than 30 museums around the world, including The State Hermitage Museum, The Victoria and Albert Museum, The British Museum, and the Dara Shikoh Library (Department of Archaeology
Government of NCT of Delhi), to name a few. We worked with top experts, including a copywriter from The Metropolitan Museum of Art. This experience reinforced the importance of quality and expertise. Thanks to my parents’ entrepreneurial spirit and our dedicated team, we achieved something truly special.
Digvijay: For me, Museum of Meenakari Heritage (MoMH) is a tribute to India’s rich cultural legacy. We often joked that if someone wanted to see Indian artifacts, they’d head to the museums around the world. It always left us wondering how these treasures ended up in auction houses like in Christie’s and Sotheby’s or museums of London or New York. The MoMH project aims to highlight that while many artifacts are lost, the skills and techniques to recreate them still thrive in modern India. In MoMH, we feature around 100 pieces, some of which are from our private collection.
Niharika: The truly unforgettable moment was when Gary Tinterow, Director of the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, gave us his seal of approval for our recreation of The Nizam of Hyderabad’s Sarpech. The original artifact, housed in the Fine Arts Museum, is a breathtaking plume-shaped headpiece, adorned with precious stones set in gold.
After carefully examining our recreation, Gary paused and said, “I can’t tell the difference. You’ve done a fantastic job.” Those words felt like the highest endorsement, especially coming from someone who had seen the original piece up close.
This feedback was a significant milestone for us. To recreate a piece and for it to be indistinguishable from the original after 300 years, is a testament to the skill and dedication of modern Indian craftsmanship. To top it off, we even received a signed letter confirming the accuracy of our work.
How has your mother, Sunita Shekhawat, influenced your approach to jewelry design and business? Could you share specific lessons or values she imparted that continue to guide you in your work today?
Digvijay: My parents were first-generation entrepreneurs, so their perspective was quite unique. This ‘outsider’ viewpoint allowed them to approach things differently, particularly in aspects like craftsmanship and the technical understanding of jewelry.
For my parents, advancing in life was closely tied to obtaining a strong education. When it came to pursuing education in gemology, my father was adamant that GIA was the way to go. This emphasis on excellent education was a significant factor in our success.
I’ve seen the difference it makes firsthand. For instance, I once advised a young man whose father questioned the need for formal education in gemology. I told him that a solid foundation in diamond grading, such as that offered by GIA, is invaluable. With such training, confidence in handling diamonds skyrockets. Today, both Niharika and I can evaluate diamonds anywhere in the world with just a 10x loupe and proper lighting.
Niharika: Having a mentor early in life is invaluable, and I firmly believe in the importance of the guru culture. For me, my parents are the greatest teachers. They have instilled in us a culture of hard work and discipline. For instance, being late for work due to personal reasons is not tolerated. Their strict yet fair approach has shaped our work ethics. My mother has been profound inspiration. She embodies the perfect blend of authority and humility, which is rare and admirable. Her rapport with our artisans, who affectionately call her Bhabhi (Sister-in-law), is a testament to her kindness and respect. She supports them not just professionally but personally as well, which has greatly influenced how we view relationships in our business.
One crucial lesson from my parents is the importance of maintaining integrity in our work. For example, despite market demands, my mother refused to compromise on quality, emphasizing that our legacy should not be compromised. I remember when I suggested my mother to use a medium-quality product for retail purposes, thinking it would work, my mom stood firm. I asked her, ” Why aren’t you using it since people are asking for it?” She replied, “People can ask, but ten years from now, when I’m not here, they’ll come to you and question the quality of what we made. I don’t want to compromise.” That moment taught me the importance of trusting your instincts and standing by your decisions, something no school can teach. These experiences and lessons from my parents have deeply influenced me. They have set the tone for how we approach our work, and maintain and build upon our family’s legacy.
What are some of the biggest challenges you have faced in the jewelry industry, and how have you overcome them?
Digvijay: Recently, my mother and I were discussing gemstone procurement, and the challenges women face in the industry. She noted that even today, women are scarce in gem trading areas like Jaipur’s Johari Bazaar. Decades ago, she had to mentally prepare herself before going to Johari Bazaar due to the lack of basic facilities like restrooms in the area. Despite progress, I feel women are still not well-represented in some jewelry associations.
Challenges persist, including rising gold prices and the demand for mass-produced items. Artisans often face competition from those offering lower-quality work at higher volumes, which can affect the quality and pricing of handcrafted pieces. These are some of the hurdles we address as we strive to uphold high standards and promote inclusivity in the industry.
Niharika: Many people often view design as a predominantly feminine role and question if my involvement extends beyond traditional design tasks. I want to clarify that my role encompasses much more than just sketching; it involves visualizing designs, understanding retail dynamics, and analyzing ROI. Being a designer is not merely a hobby or a simple task—it’s about a holistic approach to creativity and business.
A pivotal moment happened in 2014. When I mistakenly sent the wrong version of our artwork for a magazine feature. When the issue was published, I was devastated and went to my mother to admit my mistake. She calmly responded, “I noticed it yesterday, but I wanted you to realize it yourself. Remember, it’s not just you who pays for your mistakes; we do too. That’s what parents are for.” This experience imparted a profound lesson about responsibility and the role of family in business. The wisdom and guidance of our elders in a family-run business are invaluable.
My parents, as trailblazers in the gem and jewelry industry, have laid a strong foundation. Now, it’s our responsibility to build on that legacy and continue their work.
How do you strike a balance between creativity and the commercial demands of the business?
Niharika: One of the key challenges I face is balancing the retail and brand aspects of our business. It’s a catch-22 situation — on one hand, you want to create a brand that transcends traditional pricing rules and embodies exclusivity, but, on the other, you must navigate the realities of retail and market demands.
For me, the solution is to constantly push boundaries and create something exclusive. It’s like a personal race where you keep raising your own bar, waiting for the right person to appreciate the uniqueness.
One of the most valuable lessons I learned about business was the importance of maintaining high standards, even in the smallest details.
Patience is key in the luxury business, and I’ve learned that the hard way. When sales slow-down, it can be unsettling. I remember calling my mom during those times, and she would remind me not to get too commercial or anxious. She would tell me that slow sales is just a temporary phase, and it helped me realize that patience is essential for sustaining a luxury brand. To manage this, I’ve learned to compartmentalize my thinking. It’s like switching between roles—I’ve divided my mind into two parts: one focused on revenue, and the other on the brand. For example, when it comes to revenue, I find myself negotiating with Digvijay, asking for pieces under a budget. But when I’m thinking about the brand, I focus on ensuring we have a standout piece for the season, even if it means going over budget. I’ve developed the ability to switch gears mentally.
How do you embrace innovation, particularly advancements in designing and manufacturing technologies, while staying true to the brand’s heritage of hand-made jewelry?
Digvijay: Technology is readily available to us, and it would be unwise not to leverage it for better outcomes. For instance, consider setting small diamonds. Traditionally, an artisan would set them by hand. However, with advancements like a 10x magnification loupe in a micro pavé setup, we can now set even the smallest diamonds, like those in the minus-two size, with absolute precision. The result is a flawless finish.
Could you share your experience at the GIA campus
Niharika: My time at GIA was life-changing. Moving to New York was a significant decision, and despite my initial hesitations, the discipline and experience I gained were invaluable. I thoroughly enjoyed my time there, and it marked a period of growth both personally and professionally. In fact, while studying at GIA, I interviewed for a couple of jobs and even received a job offer. I still have the email correspondence saved, as it represents a significant moment in my career. The entire experience was transformative.
Digvijay: My GIA experience spanned multiple campuses, and the discipline instilled from day one left a lasting impact. The diversity of nationalities and the shared passion for gemstones and jewelry among students was inspiring. Though I came with little experience in the industry, the enthusiasm around me sparked a deep love for the field. The beautiful California campus was just the cherry on top.
What is your favorite gemstone, and could you share why?
Niharika: At GIA, we learned that the distinction between “precious” and “semi-precious” stones is a trade term. Personally, I love emeralds; they have always been my favorite. Growing up in Jaipur, where gemstones are cherished, I’ve always preferred them over diamonds. Emeralds hold a special place for me, though I also appreciate the unique beauty of kunzites and peridots. I love gemstones with character, especially those with inclusions—they add authenticity and charm.
Digvijay: I’m drawn to tanzanite. Its deep blue color and velvety texture make it truly captivating.
Excerpts taken from GIA India’s Legacy of Leadership Knowledge Series interview conducted live on Zoom. Attendance by invitation only. Register on collective.GIA.edu as GIA alumni to get notified about upcoming events.
