From collaborating with Indian fashion designers like JJ Valaya, Suneet Varma, and others to creating rental programmes for its piece, jewellery platform Aulerth is seeing new directions for ethical jewels and mindful design. Launched in 2021 by entrepreneur Vivek Ramabhadran, the platform is rooted in the ambition to popularise responsibly crafted jewellery.
“Designing jewellery is an incredibly intimate process. It’s about creating something that sits close to the skin, often carrying personal meaning, memories, or symbolism for the wearer,” says fashion designer Suneet Varma. “Unlike clothing, which flows with the body and changes with seasons or moods, jewellery has a more enduring quality. It becomes part of someone’s identity through a piece that is passed down, cherished, and remembered.”
A veteran couturier, Varma has been crafting fashion in India for over three decades. In recent years, he has also added jewellery to his repertoire—the latest being a collection titled ‘mehr’ which launched earlier this year. “Each piece in the collection is an intimate expression, rooted in heritage yet progressive in its purpose. For me, jewellery is deeply personal. It’s not just an ornament but an emotion, an extension of who we are and what we hold dear.”
Behind Varma’s tryst with jewellery, and that of many other Indian designers, is a partnership with the jewellery platform, Aulerth—a jewellery platform focused on ethical materials and manufacturing, and design collaborations with fashion figures. Founded by Vivek Ramabhadran, Aulerth champions the cause of responsibly crafted jewellery. “This is for people who believe that design and craft are the main drivers of preciousness, and place a higher value on that as opposed to materials,” says Rambhadran, who served as the Vice President & Managing Director – South Asia, South East Asia of Swarovski before turning to entrepreneurship.
Most of the platform’s collaboration, barring the jewellery label Tribe Amrapali, are fashion designers who bring signature motifs and collection details from their repertoire into the jewellery designs.
Designers Suneet Varma and JJ Valaya’s ready-to-wear label JJV have been Aulerth collaborators since the beginning, while holiday lifestyle brand Shivan & Narresh and the textile label Ekaya Banaras joined in subsequent seasons. “The idea was to partner with existing, established leaders who are known for design, and we also wanted diversity in aesthetics,” Ramabhadran says.
JJ Valaya
“Jewellery holds a unique power. It completes a look, perfects an ensemble, and makes a person feel absolutely captivated by their brilliantly put-together appearance. It’s about the clever interplay between jewellery and apparel, creating something of immense value, a touch of drama, and an element that truly makes the wearer shine. Ultimately, it all comes down to the details.”
Design is serious business at Aulerth
Initial inspirations come from the designers, be it from longstanding signatures or a collection that the designers may be working on. The Aulerth team plans the range and pricing while mood boards are aligned, following which the design and manufacturing begins. Translating motifs from textiles and embroidery can be an exciting process, as the team works out the scale, base components and designs. A bigger collection and elaborate pieces may be gradually broken down into capsule drops featuring lighter versions of the designs as the team works to foster long-term collaborations with designers.
JJ Valaya works closely with the Aulerth team to develop fresh collections and designs, many of which are on display at his flagship store in Delhi’s Aerocity. “What immediately captivated us was Aulerth’s innovative use of recycled brass to craft a unique line of jewellery. As a brand, we’re always keen on embracing novel ideas, especially those with a strong foundation in sustainability,” says Valaya. “The core idea behind this collaboration was to design a line of accessible jewelry that perfectly complemented our existing brand, JJV Kapurthala. Like JJV, this new line aims to be a bridge to luxury, offering exquisite pieces that are within reach.”
Over several seasons, Valaya has worked with the Aulerth team to translate his signature motifs such as the chevron and elements from his collections into jewellery. “I particularly enjoy working with stones, so our contribution to this initiative focuses heavily on combining metal and various stones, with a touch of crystal for added sparkle,” the couturier says. “This blend forms the fundamental DNA of our designs, and you’ll see it reflected in every piece we’ve created.”
Eco-conscious Jewellery
Design is the winning factor, but what appeals to Aulerth’s collaborators about the platform at an elemental level is its core mission—making jewellery more eco-conscious and sustainable. “As a designer, I’ve always believed that beauty must have purpose. When I was introduced to Aulerth’s ethos of sustainability and ethical craftsmanship, it immediately resonated with my values,” says Varma, who has also featured Aulerth pieces in one of his runway couture shows. “Their mindful approach to jewellery-making and prioritising the planet and people offered a compelling new medium through which I could express my design sensibilities more consciously and responsibly.”
Eschewing virgin metals, Aulerth’s base materials are recycled brass and steel, and the brand is now considering silver as well. Semi-precious stones, both natural and manmade, are used to embellish the collection and most of the designs are gold-plated at a thickness of 4-6 times more than industry standard, claims the brand. “We largely use recycled gold. But at this stage, traceability is not 100% so we do not claim it—but we should be in a position to do so in a few months.” Procurement and quality control are among the most challenging aspects of helming the business. “It adds more steps to the process,” he adds. “We are formalising the backend of the material process and making it more efficient.”
In addition to manufacturing processes, Aulerth also has options for consumers to shop mindfully. Besides offering a lifetime buyback (with 50% credit) option for the pieces, the platform has an innovative rental programme titled Loop which allows people to rent Aulerth jewellery for a limited period.
Think of it as a library for jewels. “When we started Loop, we heard that it was made for younger audiences—but we have seen that Loop’s usage cuts across age groups, from 25 to 60. And it’s not just people who can’t afford to buy; we have HNI clients as well,” Ramabhadran says about the response to the programme.
Suneet Varma
“What fascinates me most is how something so small can hold so much emotion and intent. With jewellery, the design language must be precise, thoughtful, and timeless. There’s no room for excess; every curve and every stone placement must tell a story.
It also allows me to approach design like sculpture, which is where my creative journey began. With Mehr especially, the process was about finding that delicate balance between ornamental beauty and deeper purpose, crafting pieces that feel personal, powerful, and conscious. It’s a different kind of storytelling, quieter, but just as profound.”
Ramabhadran and his team are now growing their design canvas and variety of jewellery. “While we started with an emphasis on heavier designs, we are now evolving to have lighter every day and evening pieces in the mix,” he says. “We are also focusing on men. Our bracelet initiative with CRY and Valaya was quite a success and opened us to a broader clientele.”
There are also plans to focus on building the label’s online retail. Aulerth has stores in Hyderabad and Bengaluru, and a studio headquartered in Gurugram, and retails via popups and exhibitions.
However, online retail remains the largest contributor to the business. “We are also working on building in the international market, particularly the US. We have seen a market with clients there and see a strong opportunity—starting with the diaspora and growing from there,” he adds.