Garima Maheshwari, Head of Design, Tanishq, brings together a fusion of scientific acumen and creative passion. Rising to the top of her class in the field of science, she chose to pursue Accessory Design at NIFT, and destiny smiled upon her as she became part of the Tanishq team. Her extensive background has uniquely positioned her to craft contemporary collections that seamlessly integrate technology and design that strike a chord with the current generation.
In a candid conversation with Solitaire, she delves into the process of conceiving stylish and enduring concepts alongside her team. A recent pinnacle achievement was marked by Tanishq’s debut at the Paris Couture Week, achieved through a collaborative effort with fashion designer Rahul Mishra.
Tell us more about your foray into the world of jewellery.
I was a CBSE science student with a meritorious background, achieving 99 percentiles, but I was always enchanted with the world of fashion and design. It was a toss-up between engineering and fashion.
I chose to join NIFT to learn Accessory Design and I realised that it fit into that perfect balance that I was seeking in my life. I found the course interesting as it was about lifestyle and product design that involved technicalities and details, which went beyond 2D, and resonated with my ingrained scientific approach. During that period, I happened to interact with the then design head of Tanishq. That’s when the dream of being in the jewellery field took seed. I joined Tanishq for my graduation project, an experience that kindled an enduring association. I found that space where one could use design as a tool, not just to create, to beautify, or but to actually go beyond that and use conceptual understanding and technical know-how and apply that to create newness and aspiration for consumers. I was exposed to the world that offered a perfect balance of science and art. And that immensely gratified me.
Being a scientifically oriented person, you must have been spending a lot of time on the workbench with artisans …
Yes, absolutely. I’m proud to say that the first project that I did for Tanishq way back in 2004 was about modularity. I spent most of my time with craftsmen and artisans and worked on various aspects for our target audience, which is so diverse. Sound technical know-how helped me crack problems.
What inspires you?
Growing up as an Army child exposed me to an enriching existence, encompassing both rugged, challenging environments and the breathtaking beauty of natural landscapes. This unique blend of experiences, coupled with my extensive travels spanning the entirety of India, became an indelible source of inspiration for me. And hence my interest, inclination, and inspiration come from all these places. It is the culture, the heritage, the rituals that people follow across the country and how we come together as one.
That apart, nature never ceases to amaze with its bounty. I was lucky to have been exposed in my early days to various idyllic places and my love for travelling continued. Any and everything captivates me…
The tech know-how has always served as a bridge between my designs and business. And it is not only in the application of technology, but a mindset, where I always apply that you could go wild in terms of creation, and you could imagine beautiful concepts. However, an equally important facet is the conscious understanding that every creation must harmonize with commercial feasibility and possess the allure to captivate consumers.
What kind of technology do you use for collections?
Recently, we did a very exciting collection with 3D scanner printing. One of the team members had picked up a leaf that was amazing in its beauty and structure. In order to render it into a jewellery piece, we used the 3D scanner to capture every detail and nuance of the texture … we were able to make a very successful collection thereafter.
Given the technical tools available today, brands like Tanishq have moved towards more representational or metaphoric designs … which is a welcome change. Your comments.
Personally, I would not want to recreate inspirations. But we do make an exception with Nature, and represent it in its true or stylised form. So, it depends on the business proposal and on the kind of collection we’re working on.
Our recent collection the Tales of Mystique presents Rajasthan’s architectural marvels in a metaphorical manner. We create jewels based on the modern mindset of the customer, while staying rooted in tradition and culture.
So, we relied on 3D technology to view the source of inspiration in a different manner. For instance, we studied how the sun rays selectively illuminated the steps of an architectural wonder, and we artfully integrated it into a necklace by adding sparkle only its edges. I believe in looking at an inspiration differently and translate it in a manner that it gives you just a glimpse of its origin.
How do you conceptualise a particular collection? Does that come across to the consumer in terms of telling tales?
Yes, we really do that since it is ingrained in the ethos of our brand. We are a 29-member team and other than working on fantastic collections in the studio, we all travel, interact, have customer sessions … it’s a well integrated process, which is finally aligned to our business goals. We also study socio economic trends and then build a deep design story. We train and empower our staff, too, to take the stories to our consumers.
Being a design head, how do you balance your creative freedom within the structured framework of a corporate jewellery house, which is bound by so many mandates in order to cater to a diverse population?
That’s a very interesting question. We are so integrated with our business teams, and with our evolving scenarios that these niggling issues challenge us to do something even more exciting. From the design point of view, if you’re very confident of your own research and design stories, and your approach towards the consumer when setting a trend, you’re able to resolve the issue easily.
How was Tanishq’s debut received at the Paris Couture Week?
It was really spectacular and a moment of pride to take Indian craftsmanship, and presenting on a stage frequented by trailblazers in global trends. Receiving such applause and appreciation was very encouraging. And it also reaffirms faith in ourselves that we can really cater to the high jewellery category.
What was the reason to debut only Tales of Mystique amongst so many collections by Tanishq?
As a brand, we are moving towards understanding the evolving need of our consumer who is well travelled and well acquainted with different cultures; and some of these consumers have also grown with us along our own journey. Hence, we are cognizant to the fact that their needs are evolving, their appreciation for fineness has evolved. Unlike in the past, influencers and bloggers are shrinking the whole panorama of the fashion world, of beauty, and of design. And hence, to build a new aspiration for this consumer, we wanted to be the first ones to cater to them. Showcasing at the Paris Fashion Week got us the right audience and was well appreciated that we’ve taken India to that stage.
Our ideology was similar to fashion designer Rahul Mishra’s … he’s been focusing on the richness of Indian craftsmanship and we as a brand take pride in our craftsmanship and our artisan-first approach … I think the collaboration was wonderful.
How does your day pan out?
Ideally, I start my day by meditating and doing hatha yoga. It recharges me and prepares me for the day ahead. During my travel to the workplace, I strategize and prioritise my to-do list. At work, we huddle up as a team, and relook at what we’re working on, have brainstorming sessions, and the day just progresses organically.
In my free time, I like to dabble with watercolors, although it’s really at a hobby level. The medium excites me, it’s so fluid. I also love to travel.