The big fat Indian wedding season is in full swing! In just the last two months of 2024, India witnessed about 48 lakh weddings, and the celebratory frenzy is set to continue till February 2025. How are today’s jet-setting brides crafting their dream celebrations? Shilpa Dhamija unveils the bespoke jewellery trends shaping the 2024-2025 wedding season, representing one of India’s three high-end brands.
VRK By Khanna Jewellers
VRK (pronounced Varak) is a bespoke jewellery brand founded in 2021 by the fourth generation of Delhi-based Khanna Jewellers, a family with 70 years in the business. VRK was established to cater to the discerning cosmopolitan buyers seeking impeccable quality and consistent design sensibility from an Indian brand, says Kartik Khanna, Creative & Managing Director, VRK By Khanna Jewellers.
“Renowned international jewellery brands have created their brand image and signature style by following consistent design sensibilities. For instance, one can recognise a Cartier or a Tiffany piece by its design aesthetic. In contrast, only a handful of Indian brands have achieved such recognition through unique designs. Identifying a clear demand for this in the Indian market, we created a brand that fills this gap.”
VRK’s high jewellery products are designed and crafted by local as well as overseas expert craftsmen and artists, “who understand the importance of a well-finished product,” Khanna explains.
This wedding season, he has observed a progressive shift in the preferences of bridal jewellery buyers. While diamonds and emeralds remain perennial favourites, there is a growing interest in new colours and unique gemstones. “Customers are now seeking high-quality rubellites, tanzanites, well-cut amethysts, aquamarines, and tsavorites. These gemstones and hues that were once less popular in India but embraced long ago in international markets.”
Bridal jewellery buyers are also experimenting with innovative cuts, particularly in diamonds. “We’re seeing interest in hexagon, kite, and half-moon cuts,” Khanna notes, while he emphasises that round and traditional cuts continue to dominate the bridal jewellery landscape.
Do high-jewellery buyers in India prioritise the investment value of gemstones and precious metals when consigning bespoke pieces? According to Khanna, although investment value remains a significant factor for most jewellery buyers in North India, those seeking distinctive bespoke creations tend to focus more on the design’s uniqueness. “Often, these clients already own an extensive collection of jewellery purchased primarily for its investment value. Now, they desire statement pieces that stand out, creations that need not rely on an abundance of bling to make an impact,” he says. He adds that such consumers are on the lookout for luxury jewellery, a product category that tastefully combines statement gems and statement designs, something that was curiously amiss in the Indian market before. “It has to convey luxury and not just have a big price tag.”
Kishandas & Co.
In the South, Hyderabad-based Kishandas & Co. jewellers have been ardently carrying forward the legacy of handcrafted jewellery for over 150 years, catering to the elite of the southern India since the time of the Nizams.
“Our ancestors served as valuers of jewellery and gemstones for both the Nizams and the Tirupathi temple for generations,” Pratiksha Prashant, CEO of Kishandas & Co shares with pride.
Originally from Gujarat, the family has successfully established itself as one of the most preferred jewellers in the southern region. Now led by the fifth generation, Kishandas & Co continues to operate just one boutique in Hyderabad to maintain exclusivity. “We are adapting to the modern times while preserving the legacy and accomplishments built over many years,” she says. “If you visit our store, you will find the most traditional designs, the kind that many of our clients recall seeing their grandmothers and mothers wear and sometimes see in catalogues of Nizam jewels.”
Despite rising competition, Kishandas & Co. have distinguished themselves by upholding their expertise in heritage jewels and securing a prominent position among peers.
Pratiksha observes that only a few karigars (artisans) remain dedicated to handcrafting techniques for jewellery, as many from the next generation of these karigars have chosen to pursue careers in other sectors.
“Our specialty lies in preserving the art of craftsmanship and continuing employment opportunities for these skilled artisans,” she explains, citing an example of the manga malai (necklace featuring stylised mangoes) that features antique finishing which very few karigars are skilled in. “We employ some of the finest and oldest of these karigars.”
There is an evergreen demand for such pieces. Even today, brides want to be as traditional as possible, especially on their wedding day. They opt for matha-patti, choker, bangles, bazuband (arm band), Pratiksha informs. “The only change is that they have a more practical approach to collecting wedding jewellery by layering them in a way so that they can be repurposed even after the traditional wedding functions as separate pieces.”
What truly distinguishes Hyderabadi jewellery from other southern styles is its iconic use of pearls. Hyderabad’s affinity for pearls dates to the Nizam era, marked by their opulence and taste for luxury. “Over a century ago, Hyderabad was among the first cities in India to adopt the technology for drilling pearls,” Pratiksha explains. As pearls from across the country were processed in Hyderabad, they became more accessible and synonymous with the city’s jewellery. “It’s a tradition that millennial brides are keen to adopt, which is why the satlada haar, which is made with seven tapering layers of pearl rows, remains very popular. We observe even celebrity brides continue to embrace this timeless piece.”
While Kishandas & Co. excels in creating antique and traditional Hyderabadi designs, the growing interest in unique gemstones has spurred them to expand their offerings. “Buyers today enquire about rare gems, like a hexagon-shaped emerald, and are willing to pay a premium for it because they know such a cut is rare and expensive. They seek collectible jewellery valued for its design and rarity.” Immediate family members of the bride and groom often commission such bespoke jewellery.
Manish Malhotra
Mumbai-based world-renowned couturier and jeweller Manish Malhotra is bringing in swirls of tassels into vogue this season – not just in bridal couture but also in jewellery. Malhotra’s jhumkas and tassel-shaped flirtatious earrings are unmissable statement pieces from his latest jewellery collection. “These creations have the power to make a look effortlessly chic yet bold,” says Malhotra. “On days when you don’t feel like wearing a necklace, a striking pair of statement earrings is all you need.”
Malhotra’s grand jhumkas feature the interplay of Zambian emeralds and diamonds or rubies and diamonds, all showcasing exquisite craftsmanship.
While in Malhotra’s preceding collections he let large gemstones take centre stage, this season, he is inspired by the artful blending of fine craftsmanship and the delicate dance of gemstones, encased in beautifully detailed gold settings. “It’s not just about the gemstones themselves, sometimes it’s the quiet elegance that speaks the loudest,” he reflects.
In terms of cuts and shapes, Malhotra has used the trending rose cut diamonds, bringing a timeless elegance that is subtle and versatile and adds a delicate shimmer to the piece that feels contemporary. He explains, “I love how they bring a softer glow rather than a bold sparkle, especially in bezel or halo settings.” Then there is also the armour cut which is a signature of the brand. “It is inspired by royal grandeur, crafted to capture light with a regal power. This cut transforms coloured stones into statements of heritage with a modern edge, making each piece truly one-of-a-kind,” he elaborates.
Globally savvy fashionistas now view their wedding jewellery as a reflection of their personal journey, a nod to their heritage, and a statement of their modern perspective according to Malhotra. He notes that brides today embrace heirloom jewellery with a twist. “Russian emeralds, for instance, with their opulent green are catching their imagination this season, while contemporary elements like diamond chokers or layered pearl necklaces are gaining popularity,” he says, explaining that the trend leans towards versatility where each piece, whether a statement choker or delicate earrings, can transition effortlessly from a wedding setting to an evening event, abroad.
“Brides are looking for timeless investments, pieces that resonate with Indian heritage yet feel at home anywhere in the world,” Malhotra affirms.