As we step into the new year, reflections on the IIJS Bharat Signature 2026 offer insights into the design directions shaping the jewellery industry. The Select Club, the exclusive pavilion at the Jio World Convention Centre dedicated to elite couture and designer jewellery, showcases trends that underscore a thoughtful evolution in consumer preferences.
Throughout 2025, leading up to the show in early January, the jewellery market has witnessed a marked return of vintage and classic diamond and gem-set designs making a powerful comeback. Buyers are increasingly seeking pieces with enduring appeal — jewellery that can seamlessly transition into cherished heirlooms for future generations.
Beyond the bridal segment, diamonds have further strengthened their position in daily wear categories, frequently appearing as single accents, sleek pendant sets, delicate nose pins, or layered earpieces.
Illusion-set diamonds, in particular, have received an enthusiastic response, providing the visual drama of larger solitaires at more accessible price points—an appealing option for the discerning yet price-conscious buyer.
The rise of fancy-shaped diamonds is clearly evident at the show, with marquise, drop, baguette and oval cuts gaining prominence. Buyers are no longer restricting themselves to the oft-resorted round shape, giving designers greater freedom to articulate offbeat forms within their collections. Adding a limpid, luminescent touch this season is the increased use of rose-cut diamonds, which pair effortlessly with both brilliant-cut diamonds and coloured gemstones, creating an understated yet powerful aesthetic.
While emeralds maintain their hold on the top of the preference list, other gemstones are steadily gaining ground, kunzite, morganite, multicolour tourmalines, citrine, tanzanite, and opals.
Traditional gem-set and plain gold bridal sets continue to dominate, while daily and party wear collections have embraced bolder silhouettes that remain remarkably lightweight.
In response to persistently high gold prices, bridal jewellery manufacturers have invested heavily in research and innovation, reducing metal weight by approximately 15 to 40%, ensuring that the aesthetic intricacy or design sophistication is not sacrificed.
Some manufacturers have turned to filigreed (wirework) and Thewa gold on glass motifs to enhance surface detail while controlling gold weight, particularly in handcrafted gold collections. Others have relied on advanced manufacturing technologies such as CAD, CAM, 3D printing and laser cutting, enabling intricate scale and detailing without added heaviness. The use of ceramic enamels is also seeing wider adoption, to add colour and depth to contemporary designs.
Multifunctional jewellery has gained considerable momentum, with versatile pieces that effortlessly move from daytime subtlety to evening glamour becoming a standout favourite among contemporary wearers. Reversible earrings and pendants, pendant-cum-brooches and earrings that double as hair ornaments are among the many adaptable options on display.
Brooches, inspired by flora and fauna, Art Deco and Baroque forms, are also in the limelight. This segment is seeing a continued rise in popularity, as more men embrace these singular accessories for special occasions.
Looking ahead, the renewed fascination with classic forms signals a deeper consumer appreciation for craft-rich jewellery—pieces deeply rooted in heritage yet timeless enough to resonate across generations.
The showcases at The Select Club highlight an industry poised for a year defined by meaningful innovation, lasting value, and sophistication.