Marking the first major Cartier retrospective in the UK in 30 years, the Victoria and Albert Museum presents over 350 remarkable jewels, gems, clocks, watches and objets by Cartier, some of which have never been publicly displayed before. David Brough takes a tour of this dazzling showcase and meets Helen Molesworth, the exhibition’s Curator.
Drawing huge crowds, the Cartier exhibition celebrates the splendour of the Maison’s creations, from noble tiaras and vibrant Tutti Frutti jewels to an extraordinary diamond-encrusted snake piece commissioned by a movie star.
Following a packed private preview in April, attended by A-list celebrities, including Hollywood actress Helen Mirren, long lines of jewellery aficionados have swarmed daily into the exhibition in the Victoria and Albert Museum (V & A), and tickets are much sought-after.
“With a focus on creativity and design, craftsmanship and innovation, and legacy and vision, the exhibition showcases some incredible creations, some never before seen, and hardly ever on such a scale before,” said Helen Molesworth, Dr. Geneviève Davies, Senior Jewellery Curator, V & A, and the lead Curator of the “Cartier” exhibition.
“Highlights include Grace Kelly’s engagement ring, the Tank watch belonging to Jackie Kennedy (and later bought by Kim Kardashian), the 101-carat vivid yellow Allnatt Diamond brooch, and the 478-carat Queen of Romania sapphire, the largest in the world at the time Cartier acquired it in 1913,” Molesworth told Solitaire International.
“The magnificent Patiala necklace is shown, as well as one of the most extensive displays of jewels of the Duchess of Windsor, and such iconic creations as panthers and Tutti Frutti jewels.
“The grand finale is a room of tiaras showing the height of the jeweller’s art, also including jewels exhibited for the first time.
“We are very grateful to HM the King for lending us jewels from the British Royal Collection, such as the incredible Wiliamson Diamond brooch, set with a 23.6-carat pink diamond by Cartier London, and shown – for the first time – with the original design drawings from the V&A archives. The exhibition is a showstopper and must-see for any jewellery or gem lover!”
Upon entry to the exhibition, entitled simply “Cartier”, a standout piece is The Manchester Tiara, which embodies Maison Cartier’s early aspirations and the global business to come. It was commissioned in 1903 by the Dowager Duchess of Manchester who supplied 1,513 diamonds for a design inspired by 18th-century French architecture and ironwork.
Egyptomania, India
The exhibition charts key stages in the history of Cartier’s high jewellery designs, such as Egyptomania and a fascination for India in the Art Deco period.
Following the discovery of pharaoh Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, Egyptomania fired the European imagination with renewed force.
Cartier designers distinguished the Maison’s ancient-Egyptian themed creations by their close study of books as well as of antiquities on display at the Louvre Museum.
Cartier incorporated ancient Egypt’s colour combinations and decorative motifs, together with apprêts of faience (ancient Egyptian quartz-based ceramic material) into some of its most splendid Art Deco creations.
The exhibition highlights the importance of India as an inspiration for the Cartier family owners and for the Maison’s designers. India, part of the British empire from 1858 to 1947, became an enduring source of inspiration to Cartier.
Queen Alexandra ordered an ‘Indian chain’ in 1901, one of the Maison’s first Indian-inspired creations.
In 1911, Jacques Cartier attended the Delhi Durbar, a spectacular ceremony marking the succession of King George V and Queen Mary as Emperor and Empress of India. While there, he established important relationships with maharajas (Indian rulers) and with local dealers of carved gems and antiques.
China figured prominently in the history of Cartier high jewellery designs. An influx of art treasures from China began in the late 19th century alongside the downfall of the Qing dynasty, revitalising the European fashion for all things Chinese.
Cartier designs incorporated apprêts such as lacquer plaques and carved jade and combined them with onyx, rubies and coral.
The Maison reinterpreted Chinese motifs including mythical creatures like the dragon and phoenix, fretwork patterns and symbols of longevity and good fortune, and paid homage to Chinese forms of adornment with its tasselled pendants and jade belts.
The exhibition features historic Cartier clocks, such as the Elephant mystery clock with links to India.
Maharaja Ranjitsinhji of Nawanagar, who acquired the richly decorated mystery clock, was one of the Indian rulers whose families had made alliances with the British government under the colonial rule of the Raj from 1858 onwards.
Many maharajas developed an enthusiasm for objects and jewels from Europe’s leading designers, becoming important patrons of firms such as Cartier.
Diamond-Encrusted Snake
One of the most fascinating exhibits is a diamond-encrusted serpent neck piece.
In 1968, Mexican film star María Félix commissioned the snake necklace from Cartier Paris, and it became one of the most extraordinary members of the Cartier menagerie of animal-inspired jewels.
Bold and audacious, the necklace encapsulates the Maison’s ability to combine artistic originality and technical prowess. The sinuous, lifelike movement of the snake was achieved by creating a complex articulated structure of platinum which wraps around the wearer’s neck. With 2,473 diamonds and with scales enamelled in the colours of the Mexican flag, it is the perfect example of a client and jeweller collaboration.
The exhibition is a remarkable tribute to the craftsmanship of Cartier from its early history, and is a “must-attend” opportunity for visitors to London in the coming months. The event runs until 16 November 2025.