High-end retailer Alexander Davis sees pent-up demand as brick-and-mortar shops reopen and Covid restrictions ease in the UK.
Alexander Davis, who has a fine jewellery boutique featuring his own science-inspired designs in the chic Mayfair district of central London, is upbeat about demand for gem-set jewellery as the UK eases its Covid lockdown and allows non-essential brick-and-mortar retailers to reopen after months of closure.
Speaking on 12th April , when jewellery shops reopened, enabling him to take in-person appointments, he said meaningful self-purchase of “celebration” jewels set in brightly coloured gems would drive the market forward. He also praised the quality of gemstone manufacturing in Jaipur which, he said, had improved due to skilled craftsmanship and new technologies.
Alexander, how did your retail jewellery business do during the lockdown and what are your thoughts on the outlook for trade?
During the lockdown our business was mostly online, although we were in touch with many of our regular customers. Some of the sales were related to jewellery worn in Zoom meetings, like earrings and necklaces. As for rings, they had to be meaningful or symbolic – and positive. I have been doing more bespoke work – my business has shifted in this direction, although I recently sold pieces from my collections, like my summer jewels, such as my gem-set Dendritic Pendants.
I think there is a positive outlook now that restrictions are easing in the UK. A lot of people have money to spend – they weren’t travelling or commuting or going to restaurants during lockdowns. There will be a decent rebound. There will be a lot of “pent-up” desire to shop again – people want some nice pieces of jewellery to get their summer going. Colours will be back. Demand for bespoke pieces will be up as there is more taste for personalisation and expressing oneself.
What impact are high precious materials prices having on demand for fine jewellery?
Prices of precious metals like gold, silver and platinum have risen during the lockdown period, complicating some transactions. Many weddings were postponed during the lockdown and orders for gold or platinum rings that were made many months ago and delayed, now require re-quoting. However, most people have still gone ahead with their orders despite the surge in precious metals prices since the start of the crisis.
How has the digital transformation of the gemstone and jewellery business impacted you?
It has not had a huge impact so far because I had a strong inventory of gemstones before the lockdowns began. With physical trade fairs cancelled, it has not been possible to order stock in-person at organised events. I do prefer to see and feel gemstones, and check how they behave in the light, to imagine how they would fit into a jewellery design.
The Indian trade has been very good at using digital channels to expand its reach. Particularly, the quality of Indian-manufactured gemstones, say out of Jaipur, is getting better and more consistent, auguring for a brighter future in terms of Indian gem and jewellery supplies to the world market.
How is the bespoke market changing?
People would rather have one meaningful piece that was crafted for them – they are moving away from “throwaway stuff”.
Before the pandemic, luxury was all about experiences rather than owning things. Now, because you cannot have experiences, like foreign travel, the focus, instead, is on possessing something meaningful. It is better to get a piece of quality, and to use recycled material.
Sustainability is increasingly important. People are thinking of the environment and the health of the planet. Owning a piece of jewellery set with a gemstone is like “capturing a bit of the planet.”
Also, with gold prices having gone up during these uncertain times, it is better to spend money on something that can have a store of value.
Brightly coloured precious gemstones, such as rubies, emeralds and sapphires, are going to be hotly sought after, especially beautiful, rare stones with minimal heat or treatment that can have enhanced value.
What is your perception of Indian manufactured gemstones and jewellery?
The quality of Indian jewellery is inspiring. Indian quality is on the up thanks to supreme craftsmanship and new technologies. India is also getting better connected to the UK market. The Indian trade has been very good at using digital channels to expand its reach. Particularly, the quality of Indian-manufactured gemstones, say out of Jaipur, is getting better and more consistent, auguring for a brighter future in terms of Indian gem and jewellery supplies to the world market. Indian companies need to invest more to develop their branding strategies.
How do you see tastes of Indian consumers of jewellery changing?
I have come across a number of wealthy Indians in the UK. Some indigenous Indians have been stuck here during the lockdown because of the difficulties of international travel. Many of them have acquired more Western tastes in design, so at the top end of the market they are more sophisticated and discerning.