Speaking on the collaboration with GJEPC to launch INDRA (Indian Natural Diamond Retailer Alliance), Sandrine Conseiller, CEO, De Beers Brands, and Paul Rowley, Executive Vice President, Diamonds Trading, De Beers Group, talk to Shanoo Bijlani on the sidelines of IIJS Signature 2025.
What are your thoughts on the growing prominence of lab-grown diamonds (LGDs) alongside natural diamonds?
Paul Rowley: First, let’s be clear—they’re quite different. One is natural, and one can be mass-produced. They may have similar attributes, but they’re fundamentally different. Your comparison to a test tube baby is interesting, but in reality, it’s more like taking an egg and sperm, popping them in a microwave, and expecting a baby in 30 seconds—it just doesn’t work that way.
The market is already starting to separate, which is an important development.
The prices of any technical product, including LGDs, decrease rapidly. We’ve reached that point now, with LGD prices at about 10% of comparable natural diamond prices. They’re two distinct products.
How do you view the current state of the natural diamond market?
Paul Rowley: The natural diamond industry has faced challenges, particularly due to geopolitical factors like the situation in China, which was a significant market. Over the past year, there’s been a lot of recycling of existing stock, reducing the need for new production and causing ripple effects upstream. However, the worst seems to be over.
We’re seeing stability return, especially from the last quarter of last year. The U.S. market had a better season than the previous year, and as China reopens, the demand for new goods is expected to rise. While I don’t anticipate a massive bounce-back, there will be steady recovery, in the months ahead.
Interestingly, LGD has helped maintain infrastructure during this challenging period. The two products coexist—LGDs cater to the fashion jewellery market, while natural diamonds remain tied to life’s meaningful moments, values, and stories. Stability in natural diamond prices is encouraging, and we expect typical cyclical price movements in this market.
What feedback have you received about IIJS Signature 2025?
Sandrine Conseiller: The feedback has been overwhelmingly positive. Customers have shared a sense of optimism, and it’s clear that India’s jewellery market is booming. Large diamonds, in particular, are moving well, and there’s a notable evolution in the type of products showcased—shifting from primarily bridal jewellery to innovative everyday designs. This creativity will empower retailers to engage with self-purchasing consumers, which is a strong emerging trend.
I was particularly impressed by the innovation and craftsmanship displayed at the show. Exhibitors showcased creative ways to present larger diamonds and diversify product offerings. This reflects a positive shift in how retailers connect with their customers.
India’s jewellery market is growing rapidly. With the launch of INDRA, what percentage increase in market share do you foresee for diamond jewellery in the next two years?
Sandrine Conseiller: We’re optimistic about achieving significant growth. With collaboration and continued innovation, we aim to see a 50% increase in market share penetration—from 10% to 15%—in the near term.
It’s an exciting time for the jewellery industry, and platforms like IIJS Signature play a pivotal role in driving innovation and connecting stakeholders.