Demi-fine jewellery, a cross between fine jewellery and fashion jewellery, is attracting a niche clientele of its own. It’s a huge draw as consumers get high-quality, design-centric pieces made from precious metals and semi-precious stones at a more accessible price point. Aliya Ladhabhoy explores why this emerging category is a hit among new-gen consumers.
The term ‘demi-fine jewellery’ was coined by luxury e-tailer Net-A-Porter in 2016. This segment bridges the gap between high-end luxury pieces and mass-produced fashion jewellery. Gaining traction globally, demi-fine jewellery is also emerging in popularity in India.
Consumers are constantly seeking quality jewellery for daily self-expression. While there is demand for minimal fine jewellery, demi-fine lines offer a perfect balance of quality, style, and affordability, making it an attractive option for buyers looking to invest in pieces that are both fashionable and durable.
Valued at $2.3 billion in 2023, the segment is expected to reach $3.24 billion by the end of 2030 with a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 4.35%, according to Verified Market Reports.
Missoma, one of the most popular demi-fine brands from the UK saw a rise in annual turnover from £1m to £33m in the last five years, according to a 2022 article in Harper’s Bazaar, UK. The brand, founded in 2008, uses recycled gold vermeil, gold plating and recycled sterling silver in its jewellery. It has significant markets in the USA, China, and Germany and is also available in India through Tanzire, a one-stop online shop for demi-fine jewellery brands.
Unique Designs
Closer to home, Misho’s nonconformist, sculptural jewellery plated with 22-karat gold and rhodium has earned a worldwide following. Rihanna, Dua Lipa, Taylor Swift, Lady Gaga, Priyanka Chopra, Sonam Kapoor Ahuja and Deepika Padukone are some celebrities who have worn Misho jewellery.
Founded by Suhani Parekh in 2016, Misho has seen growth spurts through the years. “Our brand started to gain a following before Covid. During the pandemic, I designed one of our most well-known award-winning pieces, the Pods (sculptural earrings that also hold one’s EarPods in place). Post that, we have been able to continue building momentum. This is just the beginning for Misho, which is exciting,” informs Parekh.
“Our customers are people who are typically into fashion and like a slightly more interesting piece of jewellery,” shares Parekh, adding that her almost architectural designs appeals to all demographics.
Quality at an affordable cost
In the demi-fine jewellery segment, designs reign supreme. “People are drawn to high-fashion designs that stand out, and demi-fine jewellery provides this without the exorbitant costs associated with fine jewellery,” opines Kavya Potluri, a young designer who founded her eponymous label in 2020. Her brand stands out for its striking hair and nail accessories and intricate jewels that are all handcrafted.
“This category allows for bold, intricate designs using materials like brass, copper, and silver coated in gold – perfect for making a statement. The rise of demi-fine brands reflects a desire for distinctive jewellery that is easily attainable and versatile for different events,” adds Potluri.
Educating Audiences
While labels are seeing double-digit growth today, brands that have been around for a decade had to initially educate Indian audiences on what demi-fine jewellery is all about.
Sreesha Shetty, a journalist-turned-jewellery designer, started Shop Lune in 2012 as a passion project and launched full time in 2015.
“When we started our brand 12 years ago in India, there wasn’t a market for demi-fine jewellery. We spent a lot of time educating people about what it entails. The customer is more open to it today, and we are seeing a growth of approximately 40% to 50% in the last few years,” shares Shetty. Her jewellery, too, has a sculptural element to it. The handcrafted jewellery brand is available online and has a retail presence in Mumbai and Goa with new stores in the pipeline.
“Demi-fine jewellery can be worn for years, and if you take good care of it, it can be passed on to future generations as well,” shares Shetty. “Today, 80% of our clientele are repeat customers. We provide good designs with a lot of customisations. All our jewellery has three plating options – gold, silver and gun metal. We also offer a free once-a-year replating service, which very few brands offer,” adds Shetty. Shop Lune also has a fine vertical for customers who have grown with the brand and want to invest in gold.
Global demand
Tanzire, a digital marketplace for handmade demi-fine jewellery from across the globe started in 2019, too, had to allocate marketing spends on educating audiences about demi-fine jewellery. Now, they are seeing significant growth compared to the previous years, informs Suhani Batwara, founder of the e-commerce platform. They focus on brands that are founded by independent women and that champion the cause of sustainability, powering the drive to be kinder on the planet and on people.
Tanzire is only marketplace in India that has demi-fine jewellery brands from all over the world – USA, UK, Australia, France, Italy, Spain, Indonesia and India.
She first realised the potential of the segment when she visited a trade show in Hong Kong back in 2017. While big brands like Jenny Bird from Canada and Missoma from London are popular picks on their website, Batwara feels that unique designs can turn small brands into bestsellers. “We discovered INXSKY, a small brand from Paris, which is now one of our top 5 brands because their designs are so unique,” shares Batwara.
Grounds of Experimentation
Earrings, especially hoops, outperform as a category. Demi-fine jewellery gives designers the medium to experiment with different forms, textures and even innovate with new categories.
Parekh’s Pebble Pods are a case in point. “It is easier for our production studio to create intriguing pieces with demi-fine jewellery and play around with the design, whereas that is typically a little more difficult with fine jewellery,” Parekh explains.
“My headgears are a big hit because I don’t think anyone else is doing anything like this. I never expected such a positive response and thought it would be difficult to sell these unconventional pieces, but I’m so glad I was wrong. The response has been overwhelmingly positive, showing a shift towards more adventurous fashion choices,” shares Potluri.
Shop Lune’s sculptural line is where Shetty innovates with forms and techniques. Many of her bestsellers such as the crater hoops and sculptural bangles were products of experimentation.
Count men in, too!
While majority focus on women, many brands are recognising the potential of catering to the modern man’s desires as well. While some of the labels have gender neutral pieces, others design specially for them. “I think jewellery for men is definitely becoming more popular. I’ve always designed with men in mind as well and I really love to see when men wear Misho pieces. l wouldn’t say that all our pieces are gender specific. We have some exciting things coming soon, but I can’t say too much,” Parekh hints.
This clearly indicates that be it a man or a woman, there is a strong desire for design-oriented accessories that focus on value and quality that don’t break the bank, making demi-fine jewellery a strong space to watch out for.