After building a strong foundation in manufacturing and gemstone sourcing with Mehta Gold & Diamonds, Vikram Mehta took his vision a step further with the launch of Vikram Mehta Design Studio (VMDS) in 2021. Conceived as a design-driven jewellery house, VMDS reflects his growing focus on creativity, craftsmanship, and distinctive design language that blends India’s rich heritage with contemporary aesthetics. In this interaction, Mehta speaks about the evolution of the studio, his design philosophy, changing buyer preferences, and the role of strong design in a volatile market.
You founded the renowned Mehta Gold & Diamonds. We’d like to know the reason for establishing the Vikram Mehta Design Studio (VMDS).
I have always been closely connected to the jewellery industry, but Mehta Gold & Diamonds was established by me in 2012. Building that business gave me a strong foundation in sourcing, gemstones, manufacturing, and understanding the evolving preferences of jewellery buyers.
Over time, my interest increasingly moved towards the creative side of the business—design, innovation, and building a distinct design identity. This led to the creation of Vikram Mehta Design Studio (VMDS) in 2021, which now functions as the parent design studio and brand that owns Mehta Gold & Diamonds.
VMDS was created with the vision of building a design-driven jewellery house, focusing on distinctive creations that blend traditional Indian craftsmanship with contemporary design aesthetics.
How would you describe the design philosophy that guides Vikram Mehta Design Studio?
At VMDS, our design philosophy is centred around timeless elegance, strong design identity, and exceptional craftsmanship.
We believe jewellery should go beyond ornamentation and become a form of artistic expression.
Our approach is to create pieces that respect India’s rich jewellery heritage while presenting them in a way that feels relevant and desirable to the modern buyer.
Over the years, your creations have balanced heritage aesthetics with a contemporary sensibility. How do you reinterpret traditional Indian motifs for today’s jewellery buyer?
India’s jewellery heritage offers an incredible source of inspiration. At VMDS, we often draw references from architecture, nature, historical motifs, and heirloom jewellery traditions.
However, instead of replicating traditional designs, we reinterpret them through refined proportions, modern silhouettes, and innovative gemstone arrangements. This allows the jewellery to retain its cultural richness while aligning with contemporary aesthetics and lifestyles.
Could you tell us about the craftsmanship behind your pieces? What techniques or materials play a key role in bringing your designs to life?
Craftsmanship remains the backbone of our creations. Every piece is developed through close collaboration between designers and highly skilled artisans who bring decades of experience in jewellery-making.
We work extensively with fine gemstones, carefully selected diamonds, and high-quality gold, along with intricate stone-setting and detailed finishing techniques that elevate the final piece.
Our design studio operates with a dedicated team of designers and craftsmen, ensuring that every creation maintains the design language and quality standards of VMDS.
How do you see the preferences of jewellery buyers evolving today, especially when it comes to statement and collectible pieces?
Jewellery buyers today are far more design-aware and informed. Many customers are looking for pieces that reflect individuality rather than simply following traditional formats.
Statement pieces and collectible jewellery are becoming increasingly important because buyers appreciate jewellery that carries a distinct design perspective and long-term value, both emotionally and aesthetically.
At industry platforms such as trade exhibitions such as IIJS, what kind of response do your collections typically receive from retailers and buyers?
Platforms like the IIJS provide an excellent opportunity to connect with retailers from across the country.
Our collections typically receive a strong response because buyers appreciate jewellery that stands out in terms of design and craftsmanship. Many retailers today are looking for collections that help them offer something unique to their customers, and that is where design-focused studios like VMDS play an important role.
What are your expectations from the show given the volatility in precious metal prices and geopolitical situation?
The jewellery industry has always shown resilience despite fluctuations in precious metal prices or global uncertainties.
For us, IIJS remains an important platform to present our latest design directions and strengthen relationships with retail partners. Even in volatile times, well-designed jewellery with strong craftsmanship continues to attract buyers.
Which are your strong domestic and international markets?
Currently, our focus has primarily been on the domestic Indian market, where we work with select retailers who appreciate design-led collections.
While we have received interest from international buyers, we have not yet formally entered the export market. Expanding into international markets is something we are exploring for the future as we continue to grow the VMDS brand.
Looking ahead, what new design directions can we expect from Vikram Mehta Design Studio in the coming years?
Going forward, our focus will remain on pushing creative boundaries while maintaining the craftsmanship that defines our work.
We are exploring bolder gemstone compositions, distinctive statement pieces, and collections inspired by art, architecture, and heritage motifs, while continuing to build VMDS as a strong design-driven jewellery brand.