If one were to describe the renowned Lucia Silvestri in a single line, it would be this: a prismatic spirit—vibrant, intuitive, and endlessly in sync with colours. As Creative Director and Gem Purchasing Director at one of the world’s most iconic maisons, Bvlgari, her innate affinity for nature’s precious bounties fuels her passion, shaping a design language that is bold, sensual, and radiant.
And then, there is India—her enduring muse. A country she returns to not just for its extraordinary stones, but for its spirit: vibrant and alive with colour.
In Jaipur—the gemstone capital—her ritual is delightfully simple. Before the sourcing begins, before the treasures are unveiled, there is always a glass of lassi! A gesture that marks what feels like a second homecoming in the Pink City.
You began working with Bvlgari at a very young age. How did your journey with the brand start, and how has your role evolved over the years?
Indeed, I joined Bvlgari at a very young age. At the time, I was studying biology, and it was meant to be just a temporary maternity cover. Very soon, the Bulgari brothers recognised something in me, a natural attraction to gemstones and colour, and they chose to invest in that potential and mentor me. From that moment, it became a journey driven by passion and love, one that has never stopped evolving.
You have spent decades with the maison and have helped shape some of its most recognisable high jewellery creations. What has kept your association with Bvlgari so strong and creatively fulfilling over the years?
The Bulgari brothers have been my mentors since the very beginning. I had the opportunity to grow within the company under their guidance, absorbing not only the aesthetic and creative codes of the Maison, but also the values at the very core of its DNA. Their teachings, their vision, and their approach to creativity have become part of who I am. That is why, for me, continuing this journey feels natural—carrying forward this vision with passion, coherence, and a deep sense of responsibility.
Bvlgari is known for its fearless use of colour and unexpected gemstone combinations. How do you approach the process of selecting stones and deciding when a design feels perfectly balanced?
Two lessons from the Bulgari brothers still guide me every day: never be afraid to dare with colour and never buy a gemstone if you do not already know how to use it. These principles are at the core of my creative process. I never select a stone without having a clear vision for it. Creativity always begins with the gemstone itself: it suggests inspiration, design, and direction.
When the stones arrive in my office in Rome, I place them on my table and begin to experiment, combining them freely, without fear of bold contrasts. It is a very instinctive process. And in the end, the key is always harmony, no matter how daring the combination, everything must come together in balance.
Your designs are full of colour and energy. Does your personality reflect the same?
Absolutely. I believe my personality is made of many different shades and facets. My dual role—as Creative Director and as Gem Purchasing Director—also reflects this. There is a more emotional and creative side that emerges during the design phase, and a more determined, rational side that comes into play during negotiations. Both are part of who I am.
What is the one gemstone you never get tired of working with?
Every gemstone is a discovery I never tire of. But sapphire is perhaps the one that represents me the most. When I started at Bvlgari, I thought sapphires could only be blue. Here, I discovered their incredible range of colours and nuances, and I feel very connected to that. From the outside, I may appear as one colour, but inside, there are many shades.
Which has been one of the most challenging or memorable high jewellery pieces or collections for you personally?
Every year brings a new challenge, and each time we raise the bar even higher. Whenever I complete a collection, I feel it is the most beautiful and the most complex we have ever created, until the next one pushes us even further.
This year, with the Eclettica High Jewelry collection, we reached a record with 14 transformable pieces. One of the most challenging creations was the Seres Scarf. The first challenge was to recreate the softness and fluidity of fabric using only precious materials, through an extremely complex construction where more than 1,000 elements move in perfect harmony. I wanted the piece to feel alive, to follow the body naturally, like a second skin.
The second challenge was its transformability. The central sapphire is fully detachable, and my vision was for it to move freely along the necklace, without fixed constraints. At first, the artisans told me this would be impossible, suggesting only a few fixed positions. But by insisting, and by constantly pushing boundaries together, we achieved exactly what I had imagined. It was a true dialogue with craftsmanship, and that is where innovation happens.
Have you ever designed a piece just for fun that never made it into a collection?
Yes, it happens often. Sometimes ideas are born very freely, without a specific purpose. Not all of them become collections, but they are essential; they keep creativity alive and constantly evolving.
You share a special bond with India. Apart from gemstones, what do you enjoy most every time you return?
India is a magical place for me; I consider it a second home. Everything fascinates me: the colours you find everywhere, in the architecture, in the textiles, in the landscapes, the scents, and the spirit of the people. There is incredible energy, and everything becomes a source of inspiration. I can look at a palace and immediately imagine a necklace or a pair of earrings. Beauty is truly everywhere.
As a jury member for the Artisan Awards, what were your impressions of the designs created around this year’s theme?
I was impressed by the level of creativity and the spirit of innovation. What stood out to me was the way designers drew from India’s extraordinary heritage, reinterpreting it through a contemporary lens. There is a strong sense of tradition, but also a genuine curiosity and willingness to experiment.
In your view, what makes Indian craftsmanship stand out today, especially among younger designers?
India has an extraordinary heritage of craftsmanship, which provides a very strong foundation. This tradition is incredibly rich and deeply rooted, and it is what makes Indian artistry so unique. At the same time, younger designers have the opportunity to explore, to be curious, and to embrace global influences. They are able to blend past and future, tradition and innovation, in a very natural way. This combination creates something truly exciting and full of potential.
What, in your opinion, defines true originality in jewellery design today?
For me, originality comes from having a strong and recognisable identity, one that does not follow trends. At Bvlgari, originality has always meant daring to experiment. Since the very beginning, we have never been afraid to break the rules, to combine gemstones in unexpected ways, or to explore bold colours and volumes. It is about challenging yourself and stepping outside of conventions. But the essential rule is always harmony: no matter how bold the creation is, it must feel balanced and complete.
A sign-off message for the next generation of jewellery designers?
Stay curious, stay bold, and never be afraid to experiment. Learn from tradition, but do not be limited by it. And most importantly, always create with passion, because that is what truly brings a piece to life.