The era of simply labelling gemstones as precious or semi-precious is fast nearing an end. Nowadays, each gemstone is appreciated for its unique characteristics and inherent beauty, adding to the rich diversity of fine jewellery. Customers, too, are increasingly attracted to these unconventional gemstones presented with unique, customized cuts, seeking individuality in their pieces. Vaibhav Dhadda of his eponymous label and Creative Head of Jaipur Jewels & Anju Jain, Co-Founder, Exquisite Fine Jewellery expound on the trends, the new gems stealing the spotlight in the fine jewellery space, investment worthiness and more.
Apart from emeralds and rubies, what are some of the most sought-after coloured gemstones in fine jewellery today, and the reasons why it makes them desirable to contemporary jewellery buyers?
Vaibhav Dhadda (VD): For us, pink sapphires are on top of the chart. Their feminine hues offer a delightful alternative to traditional blue sapphires. They are prized for their rarity and the delicate spectrum of pink shades make them perfect for incorporating in unique and personalised jewellery pieces.
The serene blue to blue-green tones of aquamarines evoke the tranquillity of the ocean, and for their calming effect and timeless appeal, which make them versatile for both everyday wear and special occasions.
These days tourmalines are celebrated for their incredible colour range, including vibrant greens, deep reds, and mesmerising bi-colour varieties. The dynamic hues add a modern and eclectic touch to fine jewellery.
Anju Jain (AJ): Ethiopian and Peruvian opals are particularly notable for their beauty and affordability, making them an excellent choice for jewellery. Their good availability further enhances their appeal, contributing to their growing popularity. Apart from these, tourmalines, spinels, tanzanites, and aquamarines are highly desirable in today’s fine jewellery space. These gemstones are valued for their unique colours, rarity, and distinctive optical effects. Moreover, the character and essence they bring to fine jewellery cannot be overstated, setting them apart in a market overflowing with the classic combinations of emerald and rubies.
What are the popular cuts trending in coloured gemstones these days?
VD: Nowadays cuts are transitioning beyond traditional shapes. Unusual cuts are captivating contemporary buyers, with the portrait cut standing out as particularly desirable. Inspired by the success of portrait cuts in diamonds, this style is now in high demand for gemstones as well. For instance, a thin slice of a portrait-cut ruby in a hexagon or kite shape can serve as the centre piece for a truly unique and striking jewellery creation.
The appeal of these unconventional cuts lies in their ability to enhance the natural beauty and individuality of each gemstone, offering a fresh and modern take on fine jewelry that resonates with today’s discerning clientele.
AJ: Traditional cuts such as oval and cushion shapes in old step-cuts are currently in, enhancing the classic appeal and brilliance of gemstones. However, there is also extensive use of unconventional cuts like kites and bullets by top design houses, reflecting a shift towards more contemporary and artistic designs. These unique cuts offer a fresh and edgy aesthetic, appealing to modern buyers looking for distinctive pieces.
On model: Circle of Life pendants adorned with aquamarines and citrines. By JAIPUR JEWELS BY VAIBHAV DHADDA
In your opinion, which coloured gemstones are currently undervalued in the market but have the potential to become popular in the near future?
VD: In my opinion, tsavorites are currently undervalued but have immense potential to rise in popularity in the future. Often referred to as the “green diamond” due to their vibrant, emerald-like hue and exceptional brilliance, tsavorites offer a remarkable alternative to more traditionally favoured gemstones.
Despite their stunning beauty and rarity, the prices of Tsavorites remain relatively accessible compared to their counterparts. As more jewellery enthusiasts recognise the unique allure and value of this captivating gemstone, I believe tsavorites will become increasingly sought after, elevating their status in the world of fine jewellery.
AJ: According to me, Ethiopian and Peruvian opals appear to be underpriced despite their gorgeous appearance and good availability, making them excellent choices for jewellery. Spinels, despite their beauty and durability, remain relatively undervalued, but is gaining recognition. Garnet, with its wide range of colors (demantoid, tsavorite, spessartite), is affordable and increasingly appreciated.
Yellow gold scalloped ring featuring channel-set baguettes of pink rhodolites and diamonds. By JAIPUR JEWELS BY VAIBHAV DHADDA
How do coloured gemstones compare to diamonds in terms of investment value and longevity in the fine jewellery market?
VD: While diamonds are often regarded for their immediate liquidity, coloured gemstones can be likened to acquiring a piece of fine art. They may not provide instant financial returns, but their potential for appreciation over time can surpass that of diamonds, offering far better long-term gains.
Synthetic counterparts for coloured gemstones have yet to replicate the natural beauty and complexity of their genuine versions, making it easier to distinguish between synthetic and mined stones. This rarity and authenticity ensure that coloured gemstones retain their desirability and investment potential.
AJ: Coloured gemstones give character to jewellery and are seen as having inherent value due to the limited reserves of natural stones, suggesting they will always appreciate. While diamonds remain integral to jewellery, the desirability of coloured gemstones can fluctuate based on fashion trends and market discoveries, but their natural rarity supports their long-term value. Both diamonds and coloured gemstones can be durable and long-lasting, if properly cared for.
Are there any challenges in sourcing these in terms of price pressure and supply restrictions.
VD: Unlike diamonds, coloured gemstones are more limited in supply and often region-specific. For example, emeralds from Colombia possess different characteristics compared to those from Zambia or Panjshir, and Tanzanites are exclusively found in Tanzania. While this geographical specificity adds to the uniqueness of each gemstone it also complicates their availability.
Additionally, the escalating costs associated with mining have significantly impacted prices. As the expenses involved in extraction and processing continue to rise, it exerts considerable pressure on the market, making these precious stones even more valuable and sought after. These factors collectively underscore the rarity and exclusivity of coloured gemstones, further distinguishing them in the world of fine jewellery.
AJ: With depleting reserves of all natural gems, there will always be limited supply and price pressure. Government restrictions often disrupt mining in many regions for valid environmental reasons, adding to the supply chain challenges. High-quality coloured gemstones can command significant prices, especially as demand increases. Ethical concerns also limit availability, as responsibly sourced stones are more desirable, further pressuring the global supply chain.
The ear studs focus on glistening opals with a surround of white and blue diamonds. By YS18
With sustainability becoming a focus in the jewellery industry, how are designers incorporating ethically sourced coloured gemstones into their collections?
VD: These days, top jewellery designers are increasingly committed to incorporating ethically sourced coloured gemstones into their collections, ensuring that their practices adhere to strict ethical standards.
As consumers become more conscious and discerning about the origins of their jewellery, designers must respond by transparently sourcing gemstones that uphold fair labour practices and environmental stewardship.
AJ: Designers and brands are increasingly focused on transparency and traceability, ensuring gemstones are mined ethically and sustainably. Emphasis is placed on fair wages, safe working conditions, and environmentally friendly mining practices. Using reclaimed stones from vintage jewellery and promoting recycled metals are also becoming more common. Independent certifications, such as those from the Responsible Jewellery Council, help assure buyers of the ethical sourcing of their purchases.
Educating customers on the importance of ethical sourcing and the stories behind each gemstone enhances their value and appeal. Custom and bespoke designs featuring ethically sourced stones cater to the growing market of conscientious buyers. This focus on sustainability is becoming a significant trend in the jewellery industry.
The tasselled earrings are adorned with emeralds, blue sapphires, turquoise, and chrysoprase. By EXQUISITE FINE JEWELLERY