Saffronart’s Fine Jewels and Silver Auction Exceeds Expectations

The pair of earrings feature a graduating assembly of round gold discs reminiscent of the sequins used in traditional zardosi work. The gold discs are connected to a central line of tapered diamond baguettes in bar setting and tapering towards the top. The central diamond unit connects a row of alternating rose-cut diamonds and diamond beads graduating towards the top and terminating in a cluster of three rose-cut diamonds and a diamond bead, mounted in gold.

Saffronart’s Online Auction of Fine Jewels and Silver concluded on 21st April 2023. The auction offered a mix of riveting jewellery featuring traditional and contemporary designs as well as noteworthy silverware highlighting unique Indian craftsmanship.

Commenting on the auction, Saffronart President and Co-Founder Minal Vazirani said, “We are delighted to see that collectors continue to harbour a keen interest in historic pieces such as a rare and iconic, Ruby, Pearl and Diamond bracelet by Cartier sold in this auction. Saffronart is dedicated to expanding the market for vintage and contemporary jewellery through carefully curated auctions, initiatives, and dialogues on India’s rich jewelled legacy. We look forward to promoting a newer sense of appreciation for the art of jewellery collecting, while also preserving cultural heritage.”

The bracelet comprising a cluster of four ruby cabochons and four circular rubies with a pave-set openwork surround, connected to a three-tier circular cap on either side which further connects a bunch of ruby and pearl strands. Signed ‘Cartier Paris’.

The highlight of the sale was an important collector’s piece, which embodies the rich history of the exchanges between the Indian royalties with international designers – an Art Deco design, Ruby, Pearl and Diamond Bracelet by Cartier, sold at Rs. 38.04 lakhs ($46,390), more than double its higher estimate of $12,200 – $18,295. The royal family of Patiala commissioned Cartier to create this exquisite bracelet. It was gifted to Madhu Nandini (granddaughter of Maharaja Bhupinder Singh) on her 70th birthday, from her mother Rajmata Yadunandan Kumari.

Other leading lots included an Emerald and Diamond Ring which was sold for Rs. 22.8 lakhs ($27,805), surpassing its lower estimate of $24,395.

Centring on an 8.18 carat-cushion-cut emerald, flanked by two half-moon shaped diamonds, to a further diamond-set surround, shoulders and gallery, mounted in white and yellow gold.

A stunning contemporary piece, A Pair of ‘Palm Tree’ Diamond Earrings sold for Rs. 14.4 lakhs ($17,561), while a Pair of Diamond Earrings, sold for Rs.10.2 lakhs ($12,439), well above its lower estimate.

The mismatched earrings, inspired from palm trees, feature a series of marquise-cut diamonds in prong setting, extending a tapering gold rod; and graduating in size from big to small towards the bottom, terminating into a flexible gold chain. The diamonds are also colour-graded from colourless on the top and moving into yellow colours towards the terminal, where the more colourless diamonds are set in rose gold and the yellower diamonds are set in yellow gold.

The auction also hosted exceptional silverware that reflected a skilful amalgam of influences and native decorations, and yet remained distinctively Indian.⁠

A pair of silver saltshakers feature intricate repoussé work and chasing with foliate patterns, sitting on three feet, stamped ‘O.M’ at the bottom.

Owing to their unique designs, the silver lots of the auction performed well and among the highlights was A Silver Set of Two Salt Shakers by Oomersi Mawji sold at Rs. 2.04 lakhs ($2,488), more than four times its higher estimate; A Silver Water Pot, sold at Rs. 3.84 lakhs ($4,683), more than twice its lower estimate; and A Silver Planter, sold for Rs. 3.6 lakhs ($4,390), more than twice its higher estimate.