The Stellar Designs of Margery Hirschey

Trained as a fine artist and a graduate of couture dressmaking under the guidance of the late New York couturier Charles Kliebacker, Margery Hirschey combines her creative expertise to design extraordinary, bespoke jewellery. Each piece is handcrafted from 100% recycled 22karat and 18karat gold, sterling silver, and hand-cut gemstones. Drawing inspiration from ancient goldsmithing methods, her designs merge tradition with contemporary sophistication, catering to the modern woman. 

In 2008, Margery Hirschey launched her namesake jewellery collection, with the debut range quickly attracting the attention of the Designer Jewellery Buyer at Bergdorf Goodman. Motivated to grow, she created a refined collection in her makeshift studio, which was presented at a trunk show in Bergdorf Goodman’s Designer Jewellery Salon later that same autumn. Since then, her designs have adorned numerous red carpets and featured in Olivier Dupon’s internationally acclaimed book, The New Jewelers (2012). In 2014, Hirschey received the Fashion Group International’s 17th Annual Rising Star Award for Fine Jewellery. Today, her jewellery is available in select high-end stores across the US, Puerto Rico, and Canada.  

Margery Hirschey

What is Margery Hirschey’s signature design statement?  

In my designs, I strive to create pieces that speak to the past, yet maintain a contemporary aesthetic. I have always loved the imperfections and rich colour of pure gold and gemstones. However, instead of recreating what has already been done, I try to retain the aspects I love, but present my designs in a modern and new way. I have always appreciated the touch of the human hand, so we don’t use a lot of high-tech finishing, and we prefer to keep pieces looking a little unfinished. 

How do you define your sartorial sense of style?  

At one time, I wanted to be a clothing designer. I’ve studied tailoring with a master tailor and couture dressmaking with the late Charles Kleibacker. There was a time when I made all my own clothes. I love beautiful, natural fabrics and comfortable clothes, and I appreciate wonderful craftsmanship. Nowadays, I try to steer away from anything too trendy and prefer quality over quantity. I’d much rather have a few high-quality pieces that I love and that will last for years than have more pieces that will look worn in a short time. Mostly, I wear simple silhouettes, usually in dark colours, with interesting accessories, which is convenient, since I design jewellery! 

How and when did you foray into jewellery design?  

I’ve always had a passion for jewellery. As a child, I’d spend my birthday money on antique jewellery, and I’d also create my own pieces using anything I could find. Growing up on Long Island, the beach was close, so I used seashells, especially mussel shells, and waxed jute to make macramé necklaces. I also loved taking apart old costume jewellery and reassembling it into new designs, which isn’t too different from what I do now. I find unique items like coral bits and old cameos and incorporate them into fresh pieces. 

I have a degree in Fine Arts, and at one point, I believed that being a fine artist—specifically a painter—was the purest form of art, but it wasn’t my true passion, so I decided to let it go.  

I began collecting beautiful beads and making necklaces, but I wanted to create my own clasps. So, I took a jewellery class at a local school, and I continued taking more classes until I had a solid understanding of how to make the pieces I envisioned. After creating about a dozen pieces, I was proud of, I had some photos taken and sent them to galleries in New York, along with Barneys and Bergdorf Goodman—though I knew it was a long shot. To my surprise, I received an email from the Designer Jewellery Buyer at Bergdorf Goodman expressing interest in seeing my “line.”  

I went to New York with my 14 pieces and presented them to her. She gave me both good and bad news: she loved my jewellery, but 14 pieces weren’t enough to constitute a “line.” She told me I needed at least 50 pieces for a trunk show. So, I took out a loan on my house and made 36 more pieces. She agreed to feature me in the new Designer Jewellery section at Bergdorf Goodman in 2008, and that’s how it all began.  

Unfortunately, 2008 was also the year of the biggest economic downturn since the Great Depression. While I was at the trunk show, there were very few customers. It was discouraging, but having Bergdorf Goodman on my resume was a huge accomplishment.

© Margery Hirschey

Who mentored you when you started off as a young designer?  

From a business standpoint, I was mentored by the late Cindy Edelstein, who taught me how to get my pieces in front of editors and buyers, and helped me with strategies to design pieces that would sell to the largest audience. While I learned a lot from Cindy, her business plan wasn’t always something that worked for me. She encouraged me to create pieces that could be made in multiples, but that was never really my intent. I always wanted to make art pieces that were mostly one-of-a-kind and handcrafted.  

Working with Fragments Fine Jewellery in the beginning of my career, they encouraged me to stick with my vision. I love to make one-off pieces, but I also understand that not everyone can afford major pieces, so I make pieces in every price range that are completely handcrafted. 

What has been your most recent collection?  

Recently, I’ve been getting back to using design features I had done when I first started making jewellery, such as having a hammered gold-edge surrounding a bezel-set gemstone. The roughly hammered edge gives a feeling of antiquity and adds to the handmade quality of the piece (see below).

© Margery Hirschey

I’ve also been working on some wide-band rings with scattered gems all around the band in a random pattern. I’ve created this design using Gemfields rubies with diamonds, and made a custom piece for myself using my grandmother’s engagement ring diamonds and coral. I’m working on an emerald ring of the same design, and considering this band with one larger diamond and other smaller gemstones as an alternative engagement ring. A solitaire on a thin band isn’t the only option for a diamond, and young women are looking for something new and a little different (see below). 

© Margery Hirschey

Also in the most recent collection are rings featuring Gemfields Zambian emeralds, and we made a few pairs of special emerald and emerald-and-diamond shoulder dusters 

© Margery Hirschey

Your work has complemented several red carpet looks. Can you name the celebrities and award functions with years?  

Jewels on the red carpet is big business, so it is rare to see an independent designer at major events like the Golden Globes or the Oscars—at least on stars! However, our work has been worn by several celebrities on different occasions. Starting with Whitney Port at the 2010 American Music Awards, Kehlani at the Laquan Smith Front Row at New York Fashion Week, and Carrie Underwood for her TV special in 2020. Anne Hathaway wore a pair of our earrings in her episode of Modern Love, and the Editor-in-Chief of *ELLE USA*, Nina Garcia, has borrowed our pieces on several occasions. Oprah Winfrey has purchased a pair for her private collection. Most recently, our work graced the beautiful models of the New York Fashion Week show by Cucculelli Shaheen. 

What is your retail model like?  

When I was starting the brand, it was important to get into as many retail outlets as possible. However, now, especially since Covid, people are very comfortable shopping online, even for luxury, high-priced items. I used to do several trade shows a year, but the costs of those shows became prohibitively expensive, particularly when considering the number of new accounts opened at a particular show. We have a few stores we have been working with for years that I continue to collaborate with, but most of my sales now come directly from my website.  

Most people find us on Instagram and then follow us from there. I try to showcase pieces on the platform every day.

Can you tell us more about your customers and what drives their choices?  

Most of my customers are self-purchasing professionals. From what I gather through my communications with them, most are liberal-leaning and live in large cities. Many of my customers are partners of well-to-do and well-known businesspeople and celebrities. Many have purchased multiple pieces, and it means they really appreciate the work I create. I really enjoy getting to know my customers, which is something you miss if you’re only selling to stores and never meet the actual customer. 

What is your best-selling product? 

I’ve sold more emerald rings than any other single piece of jewellery. We also sell a lot of earrings, too. I try to offer them in a variety of gemstone sizes and price points so everyone can enjoy them.  

© Margery Hirschey

What jewellery trends do you predict will rule 2025?  

Whew, that’s a hard one! I’m really into interesting rings right now. I’m doing some super-wide bands sprinkled with gemstones. I’ve made ruby and diamond versions, diamonds, and coral, and I’m going to create an emerald one next, mixing cabochons and faceted emeralds. I like chunky rings. Unfortunately, the price of gold is becoming prohibitive for many people, but I still like big jewels, and I think that will be a trend. I’d also like to see more geometric pieces with a little bit of a mid-century flavour in the coming year.  

This is a very competitive business, and to stay relevant, you need to constantly invent and create new designs and concepts, and bring them to light.  

Are there any jewellery labels in India you adore?  

I was supposed to travel to India in 2019, but the trip was unfortunately cancelled due to Covid. I love traditional Indian jewellery, and I think the most beautiful pieces I have ever seen were from Munnu The Gem Palace.

Are you inspired by any other jewellery designers, other than yourself?  

Of contemporary designers, I am drawn to those who make each piece as a work of art and don’t mass-produce. I mostly admire the work of artists who also made jewellery, like Alexander Calder and Salvador Dalí, whose paintings I’m not particularly drawn to, but his jewellery is breathtaking. Man Ray made some interesting pieces. I’m in love with his Optic Topic Mask. I also love anything created by Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry. His jewellery isn’t fine jewellery, but it’s spectacular, nonetheless.  

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