Portugal-based jewellery designer ALEXANDER LAUT, who holds a degree in medicine, found his true calling in the arts. Renowned for his striking statement rings bathed in delicious shades of gemstones, Alexander excels in teasing out complex themes with a natural flair. In an exclusive interview with Solitaire International, he revealed that it’s always the gemstone that dictates his design process. Its elemental nature, lustre, colour, and unique magnetism, draw him to handpick each gemstone.
Duality exists in his unfettered creative process, allowing him to switch between classic or whimsical styles. He aims to evoke an element of surprise and joy in those who view his work.
You were a qualified doctor before becoming a jewellery designer. Can you tell us about the switch in careers?
I was born and raised in Moscow, Russia. It was common back then for children to follow their parents’ professions. My mother was a well-known doctor, and my father was a nuclear engineer, which wasn’t my field of interest. I chose medicine as it was more aligned with my mother’s profession.
I studied medicine up until graduation, but during the extreme changes in Russia in the late 80s and early 90s, I had the opportunity to travel. I went to places like France and Türkiye. Surprisingly, I got involved in show business and went to the United States with a music band to record an album.
When the album wasn’t highly successful, I decided to stay in the US because of the uncertainty in Russia. I moved to Honolulu, Hawaii. However, my medical education from Russia didn’t qualify me to pursue that field in the US, and I wasn’t enthusiastic about continuing it either. So, I started exploring new directions, including art galleries and the restaurant business. Basically, I led the life of an immigrant, grabbing every job, every opportunity, and whatever came my way. I tried portrait painting and sold 40 of my works!
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That’s quite a journey! How did you transition from these ventures to jewellery design?
My parents were always fascinated by fine arts. From an early age, we visited museums and art galleries extensively. I discovered my passion for jewellery during those visits, and I found myself captivated, spending more time observing the pieces, whether they were jewellery, medals, or objects of silver art.
These experiences made me appreciate fine arts, especially jewellery. When I settled in the US, I began experimenting with jewellery by finding unwanted antique pieces in auction houses and pawn shops. If a gemstone deserved a second life or a better setting, I pursued that.
Initially, I worked with craftsmen in Hawaii, and my pieces were well received. Later, I got involved with the House of Winston when they opened their first boutique in Hawaii. I met Mr. Ronald Winston, the son and heir of Harry Winston and worked closely with him. Although I was never officially contracted, I helped with financial goals and some designing.
It was a great learning experience, observing and touching unique, rare pieces. After that, I remember the first significant sale I made in this business, which happened two or three years after I started creating my jewellery. At that time, I was still living in Hawaii but travelled frequently to Bangkok because of my passion for gemstones. Bangkok was the easiest place to acquire rare gems, so I found myself spending more time there than at home. Eventually, I moved to Bangkok about 20 years ago, and that’s where my journey truly began. Today, I’m based out of Portugal.
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What drew you specifically to gemstones and fine jewellery?
Gemstones have always fascinated me. My process always starts with the stone. I need to fall in love with it, and within minutes I know what it will transform into – a ring, a bracelet or a brooch. I don’t sketch out ideas and then look for stones; the stone dictates the design.
I don’t believe in creating sets. For me, one visible piece can achieve all the drama needed. I don’t work on commission because it’s a restrictive experience. Instead, I take risks and create pieces that I then offer to the market.
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You mentioned that your pieces often blend classical and eccentric elements. How do you balance that?
It might be my dual personality. Sometimes, I’m serious and create classical pieces with expensive stones. Other times, I love creating whimsical, eccentric pieces. The best compliment is when someone smiles at one of my creations, like the strawberry or koi fish designs. It means I’ve succeeded in making an impact.
Each piece I create has its own story, and I never destroy my jewellery to repurpose the stones. I believe that every piece will eventually find its owner who will appreciate its unique beauty. That’s my philosophy.
In the United States, I mostly sell items that I created 12 to 15 years ago, as they never go out of fashion and are just waiting for the right person to come along and choose them.
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Could you tell us about your master craftsman and your years of collaboration with him?
My master craftsman, Mr. Sakai, is Japanese and has a factory in Bangkok. When we first met, I was told he’s the best but also the most expensive. His quality is impeccable, and we’ve developed a special connection over the years. He has taught me a lot about the production process and has guided me when my designs were overly ambitious. Our collaboration is a blend of his meticulous Japanese craftsmanship and my bold, large-scale designs.
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What drives your passion for jewellery design?
I can’t imagine doing anything else. Creating jewellery is my passion, and I feel blessed to have found it. I’m always excited about new pieces in production and can’t wait to see them. It’s my Zen moment, my highest high
Your dedication to quality and uniqueness is evident. What’s your philosophy regarding the gemstones and creation.
Sometimes, when I’m travelling, I visit pawn shops, antique shops, or simply go window shopping. Often, I find exactly what I want, like a rare emerald or a rare Kashmir sapphire. Reflecting on the history of Harry Winston, Ronald Winston’s father, who had the talent to find such treasures, it’s inspiring. As a seven-year-old boy, he bought an emerald for a quarter, which later sold for thousands of dollars. Miracles do happen. My philosophy is to give these gems another chance. Sometimes, they just need to be repolished if they’re in bad shape. I continue to follow my philosophy of “not leaving any stone unturned”.
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I often find rare gems in unexpected places, and I believe in giving them a second life. My favourite materials are platinum and high-karat gold, and I love working with corundums like sapphires and rubies.
I’m fascinated by spinels … they are truly royal stones, and often underrepresented. But now I see it’s getting very well promoted, and deservingly so.
Exotic tourmalines, too, hold a special place for me, and I have a soft spot for the pearls. Ironically, I love them. In Malay, my last name ‘Laut’ translates to ‘sea’ and as a Pisces, my zodiac sign, I feel a deep connection to water. When visiting the region’s pearl farms, I’m affectionately known as Mr. Sea.