Soon after the end of World War I, as Europe embraced a fresh spirit of liberation and reinvention, Art Deco emerged as a bold new language of artistic expression. Characterised by sharp geometric patterns, and delicate arches & bows, Art Deco styles were widely adaptable, finding application across architecture, industrial design, fashion, and jewellery. By 1919, Art Deco had gained widespread popularity beyond Europe reaching the United States and becoming the defining visual identity of the emerging modern world.
In 1925, France identified the allure and popularity of Art Deco and championed the movement internationally with a government-funded exposition in Paris called the ‘Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes’ (International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts). It celebrated Art Deco in all forms of art, architecture and opulence. Back then Art Deco was known more popularly as ‘Le Style Moderne’ or ‘Jazz Moderne’. The term Art Deco only entered common and scholarly usage in the late 1960s.
As the Art Deco movement marks a century, its timeless style continues to transcend borders and influence Indian jewellers well into the 21st century.
Manish Malhotra: Couturier and high-jewellery designer Manish Malhotra designed a red-carpet ready collection inspired by the Art Deco era. American singer and songwriter Coco Jones sported one of Malhotra’s Art Deco necklaces made with tanzanite and diamonds at the Met Gala 2025. “Our aim with this stand-out geometrical piece was to make it a symbol of strength and elegance; combining the poise of the past with the confidence of the 21st century,” says Malhotra. “Its foundation was balanced with innovation and the discipline of geometry and such clarity in thinking resonates even today. For me, the most powerful way to honour Art Deco is to evolve it. To take its codes and reinterpret them into something that feels sharp and relevant even today.”
(Right) The Empire State cocktail ring is designed with round and baguette diamonds set in 18-karat white gold. By Mirari Jewels
Mira Gulati: For over two decades, Art Deco has been a constant inspiration for Delhi-based Mira Gulati and founder of fine jewellery brand Mirari. To celebrate Art Deco’s centenary this year, Gulati launched a special collection inspired by the iconic geometrical silhouettes of New York’s Empire State Building—a structure she sees as the most classic, defining and iconic architectural marvel of the Art Deco era.
Her jewellery features elegant, streamlined designs that celebrate the symmetry of simple geometric shapes. The collection features structured diamond cuts such as emerald, Asscher, and baguette, paired with carved natural gemstones in streamlined forms. “The emphasis remains on wearability and merging form with function to appease modern jewellery collectors, who value the story and craftsmanship behind it,” says Gulati, adding, “Accordingly, we set out not to replicate vintage aesthetics, but to reinterpret them through a modern lens and preserve its spirit while crafting something distinctly contemporary,” Gulati explains.
Chhaya Jain: As a tribute to the early 20th Century’s most glamorous era, Mumbai-based Chhaya Jain, Founder & Creative Head, Sensuel Jewels, has created a colourful collection of exuberant Art Deco silhouettes for those who still romanticise the world of the Great Gatsby. Her Art Deco Muse collection, showcased her Art Deco collection at the Gem Geneve show hosted in May this year, playfully blends fine Indian craftsmanship with the daring spirit and experimental flair of the period’s designs.
A key piece in the collection is a 147.47-carat lapis-lazuli block is framed by an intricate arrangement of diamonds and Zambian emeralds, reflecting the flattering finesse of Indian craftsmanship. “The necklace is strung with nearly 163 carats of aquamarine tumble-beads,” adds Jain. In her modern Indian interpretation, Jain uses Zambian emerald beads to reimagine the classic form.
Sunita Shekhawat: Jaipur-based jewellery designer and founder of her eponymous brand, Sunita Shekhawat believes that Art Deco’s structured elegance and geometric clarity are as relevant today as they were 100 years ago.
In the 1920s and 30s, well-travelled Indian royalty often paired Art Deco designs with intricate traditional Indian jewellery, blending global style with local heritage. “Matha-pattis and rakhdis in Art Deco styles were quite regularly paired with traditional kundan jewellery,” Shekhawat recalls. Even today while Indian jewellery buyers remain deeply connected to Indian traditions, their global exposure encourages them to embrace design influences from around the world “making Art Deco relevant for all generations,” she reasons.
Shekhawat’s latest diamond jewellery collection channels the Art Deco era through graceful arches and bow motifs, finished with brilliant-cut and rose-cut diamonds set against a base of black enamel. In Europe, black onyx was a hallmark of Art Deco design, “while closer to home, black enamel appeared in Nizam-era Kundan jewellery,” the designer notes. The collection draws on these references to offer a striking contrast and a sense of vintage refinement in her modern reinterpretation of the style.