Built over a century ago, Bergdorf Goodman has established a majestic presence on New York City’s fifth avenue as its most iconic luxury department store. It is a definitive destination where independent as well as renowned jewellery brands showcase their finest creations for a discerning clientele.
Beth Armata, the group manager of private client relations, personal shopping, and high jewellery at Bergdorf Goodman has spent almost seven years shaping the jewellery-buying experience and curation at the store, for New York’s cultured collectors and international travellers. In the last decade, Bergdorf Goodman has partnered with renowned Indian jewellery houses such as Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Munnu – The Gem Palace for special collections.
In an interview with Shilpa Dhamija, Armata who recently visited India, shares her deep admiration for Indian craftsmanship and reveals how to thoughtfully position a local brand on a global stage.
How did your journey in jewellery sales begin, and what continues to draw your interest in the industry?
I started my journey at Bergdorf Goodman in the personal shopping department and then moved to the jewellery section. I found the transition fascinating because jewellery, more than anything else, is the most personal and individual form of expression.
Jewellery is what we turn to when celebrating life’s most important moments. It creates memories and offers a form of self-expression that clothing cannot. It can be a family heirloom, it becomes part of your lineage, like I have my grandmother’s opal and diamond ring. Regardless of its monetary value, to me, it’s the most beautiful thing I have ever owned.
Tell us about JewelsOn57th, your social media initiative to educate non-professional jewellery audiences.
When I started in the jewellery department, I knew little about the technicalities of the jewellery world. So, I launched an Instagram page – JewelsOn57th – where I share the knowledge that I collect on the jewellery that we present. Over time, it has encouraged many clients to learn more about jewellery, too. I always encourage people to visit Bergdorf Goodman, even if they’re not looking to buy. Jewellery shouldn’t feel intimidating, it’s meant to be tried on, felt, and connected with. This platform also encourages other personal shoppers in the store to use it to engage with clients and spark an interest in jewellery, even if they’re not jewellery experts.
What’s trending among fine jewellery collectors in New York city?
In New York, trends move fast, sometimes too fast. It’s such an international city with so many connoisseurs from across the world passing through. I’ve noticed that collectors aren’t necessarily after the biggest stone or the most familiar brand anymore. What really excites them are one-of-a-kind pieces that highlight craftsmanship and thoughtful design from global designers. At Bergdorf Goodman, we have an incredible edit of such designers, and we encourage our clients to slow down, connect with the piece, and with the story behind it.
At Bergdorf Goodman, you have had successful collaborations with Indian jewellery brands – Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Munnu – The Gem Palace. What qualities made them the right fit for your jewellery edit?
It’s the interaction with the designer, the way they communicate their stories. It has allowed me to gain a much deeper understanding—a 360-degree view of who they are and the inspirations behind their collections. When you hear what their favourite pieces are and why they made them, you naturally start to resonate with the brand. We have had Sabyasachi and Munnu – The Gem Palace at Bergdorf Goodman since the pre-pandemic period and we do collections with them every now and then. Both have done tremendously well at Bergdorf.
For us, craftsmanship is the topmost priority. We want to bring in pieces that can make one stop in their tracks.
India is a treasure trove of expertise in jewellery making. What do you think Indian brands should do to expand their global appeal?
When it comes to branding, it’s crucial to stay true to the brand’s DNA even while expanding to a global audience. Often, it’s simply a matter of exposure and context. What is needed is to educate clients on the story behind the brand. When people understand the passion, craftsmanship, and meaning that defines a brand and its jewellery, there’s rarely any resistance to the style. It is also important to go slow to be able to grow fast when it comes to building a luxury or marquee brand.
Unlike in the past, few modern-day celebrities actually own iconic jewellery collections. Instead, they tend to endorse renowned jewellery brands. In your opinion, what calibre of collectors, if not celebrities, possess the most coveted and distinguished jewellery collections, in today’s world?
Celebrities are a powerful marketing tool, and it’s understandable to engage them for recognition. However, authenticity cannot come from endorsements alone. While we serve celebrity and royal clients, our core clientele consists of private collectors who genuinely build extraordinary collections. We know their collections well and understand how to thoughtfully add to them. It feels rewarding to add to the collections of families who have been shopping with us for three to four generations. Many prefer to keep their collections private.
How do you see the art of collecting jewellery evolving with the younger generations?
Younger clients and highly successful businesswomen typically buy pieces for themselves. Unlike traditional collectors, they may not prioritise large stones, but if a modern design incorporates an important gem, they will be drawn to it. Designers like Fernando Jorge, Nikos Koulis, and Silvia Furmanovich strike that balance while offering contemporary aesthetics.
For everyday wear, this client base tends to opt for pieces in more accessible price ranges, but they also purchase more frequently and with a strong sense of personal style.