Sometimes intense grief can open doors to a new avenue – a hidden, unexplored gift that lies deep within you. Grief asks you to first immerse yourself in it, and then that very emotion begins to offer coping tools – giving birth to something that is truly beautiful.
Meet Mariyeh Ghelichkhani, an Emirati jewellery artist who listened to her inner calling, stepped away from a promising linguistic career. A wordsmith and a linguist by education, she chose to work her way through the grief by creating off-beat jewels instead of relying on the power of the pen.
It was a revelation of sorts, as the artistry, design sensibility and creative instincts lying dormant within her – a rich legacy passed on from her late jeweller father – came to the fore. Jewellery designing became another visual language that she chose to embrace.
Tell us more about your initial days – when jewellery designing was not part of your plan. Your early days in Tehran … If you were not a jewellery designer, what would you be?
I grew up in Tehran surrounded by jewellery — I was born into a family deeply passionate about jewellery, gemstones, art, and antiques — creativity was always in the air.
My father’s workshop was my second home, yet I experienced it more as a magical world than a future career. I would do my homework there, watching the wax carvers and gem setters, breathing in the scent of molten gold, and listening to the stories behind each jewel. It all felt very poetic, but I never consciously thought, this is what I will do one day.
My academic journey took a different direction. I studied languages and linguistics, which ignited my deep love for words, meaning, and expression. I have always been drawn to beauty, culture, storytelling, and the emotional layers behind everything. Among my literary works, translating books and articles has been especially meaningful to me, particularly Heart of God by Rabindranath Tagore into Farsi. That book touched me profoundly and still holds a very special place in my heart.
Had I not become a jewellery designer, I believe I would have found myself as an author, a poet, or perhaps working in a world of design, art, or calligraphy. I am equally fascinated by music and nature, both of which nourish my soul and inspire my creativity.
Spirituality has also been at the core of my life for many years. I have explored different paths and forms of spiritual expression, and this inner journey has truly shaped who I am.
I travelled across different parts of the world including several visits to India, always searching for answers to my deeper questions. Later, I realised the truth of what Rumi so beautifully says: “You wander from room to room, hunting for the diamond necklace that is already around your neck.”
It taught me that what we seek so passionately outside is often already within us!
In many ways, jewellery became another language for that same search for meaning, healing, and connection.
Tell us more about your journey into the world of jewellery. The major reason was the demise of your father, a silversmith and designer… what made you step into his profession? Did it help ease the pain? Does his spirit guide you even now?
I took my upbringing for granted for a long time. It was only when I realised my time with my father was limited that a deep sorrow awakened in me, and with it, a profound reflection on the lifetime of creativity and craftsmanship he had built.
When he passed away, the emptiness was overwhelming. Almost by fate, I found myself at a goldsmithing bench, and as I worked, with tears running down my cheeks, memories of my childhood came flooding back – my father, the atelier, the workshop, and all the knowledge he had passed on to me, often without even realising it.
Very quickly, I became completely immersed in the process and fell in love with the craft. Working with my hands helped me process my grief in a way nothing else could. It was healing, grounding, and deeply emotional, like continuing a conversation with him.
Luckily, everything seemed to align naturally. The right people entered my life, the right opportunities appeared, and the right knowledge came at the right time. I have no doubt that this journey is a testament to the grace of God and the guiding light of my father. It has provided solace amid this separation, as everything serves as a continuous reminder of him.
Many of your creations feel deeply personal. How do you balance emotional storytelling with wearability?
My creations are a true reflection of who I am. They always carry meaning, but also an abstract, almost poetic quality. I never design for commercial reasons; the initial spark of creativity is far more important to me. Each piece is deeply personal, filled with passion and emotion, yet I love the idea that anyone who is drawn to my work can find their own story within it. In that sense, the jewel becomes a shared space between my world and theirs.
I also offer bespoke services, where I weave my client’s themes, memories, and emotions into my artistic language.
When it comes to wearability, I’m very hands-on. I personally test every piece during the making process and again once it is finished, to make sure it feels comfortable and practical. The world is already full of delicate, everyday jewellery, which is beautiful, but my pieces are for those who want something beyond the ordinary, something more expressive and soulful.
My ideal client is often a woman who has explored the world of high-end maisons and classic jewellery and now feels ready for something different. She is looking for a piece that truly resonates with her, something unique and meaningful — in many ways, a reflection of myself. She values craftsmanship, individuality, and emotion, and she wants to discover parts of herself, her memories, and her feelings through the jewellery she wears.
Your designs often begin with a gemstone. What is that one ‘pick-me-up’ quality in a gem that draws you to it?
For me, it’s energy and emotion. A gemstone speaks before it shines. I’m drawn to gemstones that feel alive, that carry a certain vibration or story. I travel extensively, primarily in search of that flicker—the spark that ignites a new and intriguing design. It could be the lustre of a surface, the vibrancy of a colour, the flicker of fire, or the elegance of a shape. Each journey is an exploration, an opportunity to discover inspiration in the world around me. Colour plays a huge role, but so does character – inclusions, asymmetry, or unexpected tones.
When a stone makes me pause, take a deep breath, and feel something instantly, I know it’s meant to become of my jewels.
Your predilection for Paraiba tourmaline is well known…
Paraiba is pure magic. The unique neon blue is striking and possesses a depth that sets it apart from other shades. It is almost unreal. It carries light, water, and life all at once. To me, it represents vitality, hope, and spiritual clarity.
I love that it breaks tradition. It doesn’t whisper; it sings. Using Paraiba allows me to move away from predictable, diamond-centred designs and create something vibrant, emotional, and daring.
Which part of the jewellery-making process feels the most like risk-taking to you?
Colour composition. Pairing unconventional gemstones together is always a risk. It’s like painting without knowing how the final harmony will settle.
But I love that uncertainty. It’s where intuition meets courage. When it works, the result is powerful and deeply original.
Do you remember a piece that was emotionally exhilarating while creating it?
Arbor Luminous was one of those pieces that felt almost magical to create. It started with the 13.6-carat Opalised Wood, and the moment I held it, I felt it carried something ancient, like memory and light all in one. In my mind, I saw this image of a tree that didn’t grow from soil, but from light itself, from the oldest imagined time, before land and sea were even separate, before colours had names.
Working with the Paraiba cabochon and melee, along with emerald and tsavorite, felt like painting with living energy. It wasn’t so much about designing as it was about allowing the piece to guide me.
It was incredibly exhilarating because I felt completely connected to the process, almost as if the jewel already existed and I was simply bringing it into form. When I finished it, I felt both fulfilled and humbled. It reminded me why I create: to translate feeling, memory, and spirit into something tangible.
The 18-karat yellow gold Hayat ring seats a 22-carat asymmetrical aquamarine symbolising a cool water body, surrounded by emeralds, rubies, tanzanite, tsavorites and garnets — some echoing the warmth of sunlight or the gentle descent of dusk upon the water, and others articulated as flora and fauna.
Another piece which holds a deep significance for me is the Hayat ring. It was inspired by the tranquil pond at my family’s holiday home. Using a 22-carat aquamarine, it felt like capturing memory in solid form. Creating it was like preserving love, nostalgia, and peace in one jewel.
What do you hope someone feels the first time they wear one of your jewels?
I hope they feel seen. I hope they feel connected to themselves, to their journey, and to something true.
When a client connects deeply, I feel a beautiful mix of pride and gratitude. There is a sense of fulfilment. It means the jewel has found its soul companion.
How has working from the UAE influenced your perspective as a designer on a global stage?
The UAE, especially Dubai, is incredibly inspiring. It’s forward-thinking, multicultural, and supportive of creativity. As a proud Emirati, I feel deeply grateful to be in a country that invests in its people and celebrates diversity.
It has given me the confidence to think globally while staying rooted in my heritage. Here, I feel free to experiment, innovate, and express my identity fully.