Oriental exoticism comes to fore in the latest collaboration between Gemfields and the Chinese jewellery brand MidnightOperaHouse. Meanwhile,Geneva-based Gübelin Fine Jewellery unveils a breathtaking gem-encrusted butterfly ring-cum-brooch, a singular masterpiece crafted over 500 hours!
In an unprecedented collaboration, Gemfields teamed up with the Chinese jewellery brand MidnightOperaHouse to introduce the stunning Floral Seasonscape collection.
The brand, founded in Beijing by designer Johnny Gengyi Yu, integrates both classical elements and chic style, aiming to inspire an interesting dialogue between Oriental elegance and exotic delicacy. Flowers have always been a favoured design element for Johnny Gengyi Yu, and in this collaboration, he uses the rich green dazzle of Gemfields Zambian emeralds against the backdrop of natural black agate.
Talking about the design experience, Johnny Gengyi Yu said, “This set of works is an attempt to blend oriental aesthetics, classical Baroque art influences and modern Art Deco style. The highlights of this creation are Gemfields’ Zambian emeralds, which inject a touch of vitality into the elegant Oriental charm. They not only perfectly illuminate the classical and elegant colours, but also emanate a delicate and artistic flair.”
Emily Dungey, Gemfields’ marketing and communications director, commented, “Each emerald found at our Kagem mine in Zambia is a gift from Mother Nature. Thought to hold talismanic properties and calming to the eye, emeralds bring to life the jewellery in which they feature. I am delighted to celebrate Gemfields first collaboration with a Chinese designer, particularly one as talented as Johnny Gengyi Yu, who has cleverly created these covetable works of art. Each piece so thoughtfully presents the dazzling emeralds, demonstrating their versatility and energy. They are delightful to behold.”
The Floral Seasonscape collection consists of three pieces, each exuding a distinctly Eastern nod to the Art Deco style featuring Gemfields Zambian emeralds taking centre stage.
The three-strand seawater pearl necklace, Ingenious Linglong Narcissus, suspends three pear-shaped Zambian emeralds, and features a detachable pendant-cum-brooch inspired by the Eastern bonsai art. The 18-karat white gold bouquet of narcissus is articulated with diamonds and mother-of-pearl, and the Baroque-style black natural agate vase shaped like petals, features five vivid green round Zambian emeralds. The decorative geometric lines are set with diamonds.
To match the necklace, the designer created two earrings, one of them being a pair of elliptical ear studs, The Window Harbors Autumn Blooms. The black agate ear studs are decorated with floral patterns in gold sand and hand-carved mother-of-pearl, reminiscent of glimpsing autumn blooms in the quiet night through a window.
The Luxuriant Golden Orchids teardrop earrings in black agate are inlaid with Zambian emeralds. The earrings are inspired from the Ming Dynasty painting ‘Double Hook Orchid’ by Qiu Ying. The focal point is the bezel-set pear-shaped emeralds connecting the two drops. The larger tear-drop is wrapped in golden threads, adorned with glittering round-cut emeralds, depicting lush flowers and plants.
Vibrant Wings By Gübelin
The convertible cocktail ring-cum-brooch, Vibrant Wings, is inspired by the beauty of the 4.88-carat Burmese sapphire, reminding the artisans in the Gübelin atelier of the elegance of the butterfly.
More than 500 hours of work went into creating the sculptural jewel crafted in platinum and titanium, a metal that requires extensive expertise. Drawing on their gemmological competence in working with coloured stones, Gübelin hand-picked 260 gemstones totalling over 22 carats, arranged with a refined aesthetic sense to give rise to spectacular colour gradations.
Raphael Gübelin, President of the House of Gübelin, headquartered in Lucerne, expounds: “In Vibrant Wings we use titanium to convey both the splendid colours as well as the weightlessness of butterflies in this piece of jewellery. This impressive jewel can be worn either as a cocktail ring or as a brooch. And even the various ways of wearing this haute joaillerie are a homage to the metamorphosis of a butterfly. Colourful sapphires and diamonds in an exciting mix of cuts reflect the light and remind us of the shimmering wings of a butterfly as it floats past.”
The iconic Gübelin ruby lends the jewel a glittering red accent and is prominently set next to the centre stone and a multi-faceted arrangement of baguette-cut sapphires and pear-shaped diamonds. Every piece of Gübelin’s jewellery is thus set with a ruby and incorporates the Gübelin family’s passion for coloured gemstones.