Mumbai-based Mairaa Fine Jewellery by Ambica Mohta is known for its customised jewellery, certified solitaires, refurbished old jewels, jewellery for babies and gifting options. For Mohta, jewellery is empowering. It not only is a reflection of one’s personality but can be a source of strength, a token of inspiration or a cherished keepsake.
Through her brand she creates contemporary jewellery studded with diamonds and gemstones for women as well as cute, enamelled creations for children. She intentionally curates stylish yet lightweight pieces that can be celebrated every day.
Mohta talks about her design philosophy, leading by intuition and what’s trending in 2022.
What drew you to the world of jewellery?
I have been obsessed with jewellery since I was 13 years old. I still recall my mother giving me my first ring back then which I fell in love with. I designed my first piece, a diamond dice pendant, when I was just 17 years old. I realised I had found my calling and pursued an education in gemmology, diamonds and jewellery design.
In 2000, I launched my jewellery brand Mairaa Fine Jewellery, named after my daughter. I was desperate to update and revise women’s jewellery because I was unable to find jewellery that complimented my aesthetics.
I have grown my brand organically using a clear vision, a lot of common sense, and my gut feelings as a designer/maker who received artistic training rather than conventional business training.
What does jewellery mean to you?
Jewellery is empowering. It offers joy, stirs the heart, and lifts the spirit unlike anything else. My brand is about providing timeless, exquisitely created jewellery. I create inspiring works of art that are proudly worn, stacked, layered, mixed and matched, and passed down from one generation to the next.
Tell us about your collection of jewellery for newborn babies and children.
Jewellery is for all ages. It is a great investment or gift. Our collection is for children up to 7 years of age. We offer solutions so that the pieces can be expanded as the child grows up. When a youngster reaches the age of 11, we provide a free service to modify the jewellery. All of our MFJ young clients are encouraged to come make jewels they will cherish. We tweak or design new items using the same gold based on the child’s preferences. Our gifting collection also has options for teens, infants, baby showers, him & her, rakhis, initial jewellery, and monogrammed items.
What inspires your jewellery designs?
I have a natural talent for spotting patterns even in the most organic forms. What inspires me is transforming simple designs into finely made pieces using the most magnificent diamonds and gemstones. I think jewellery needs to be versatile and wearable on a wide range of body types.
What are the current trends?
Layering necklaces is big at the moment. We are experimenting with pendant designs as well as chains – interlocking chains with emeralds, rubies, morganites and tanzanites in various combinations.
We also have diamond chains and dainty solitaire chains apart from stackable bracelets and rings, little studs, and bold ear clips in all shades of gold. This season, oval-cut diamonds and rose-cuts are in demand. Monogrammed jewellery and custom-made, contemporary pieces are also doing well.
What is your signature style?
Our designs are all based on the fundamental idea that they can be worn in a variety of ways. The core of the brand has always been luxury with versatility and simplicity. Even our high-end pieces may look big, but they are very lightweight.
What is your biggest learning?
As with all design disciplines, I believe it is about learning from the past, to offer a different perspective in the present, and always with a dream for a better future. As Maya Angelou said, ‘’Do the best you can until you know better. And when you know better, do better.’
Are there any jewellery brands that you look up to?
Graff, Harry Winston, De Grisogono and David Morris are some of my favourite designers.