Archana Aggarwal transforms jewellery into living heirlooms—each piece a tribute to heritage, emotion, and the modern Indian woman.
With roots in gemmology and a deep reverence for India’s cultural past, Archana Aggarwal’s designs are both a tribute and a reinvention—each piece emerging from a narrative, whether echoing Mughal artistry, Nawabi regalia or sparked by personal memory. At the heart of her label lies a commitment to impeccable craftsmanship, ethical sourcing, and storytelling. Every creation is imagined not just as ornamentation, but as a legacy in motion—jewellery that carries emotion, identity, and enduring beauty.
What first drew you to the world of jewellery design?
My fascination began as a child, watching my grandmother’s heirloom pieces, each carrying whispers of history and emotion. The defining moment, however, was a trip to Jaipur’s gem markets, the kaleidoscope of colours, the artisans’ precision, and the sheer alchemy of transforming raw stones into wearable art. That’s when I knew jewellery would be my language.
You studied at a jewellery design institute, how has that influenced your style or approach today?
Studying at a jewellery design institute gave me a strong foundation in the discipline of design. I learned that even in the most opulent pieces, form must follow function. That principle continues to shape my work. It also instilled in me a modernist perspective, so while my designs may be rooted in tradition, they’re always filtered through a contemporary lens. Clean lines, purposeful structure, and wearability are essential. I like to think of it as heritage reimagined, timeless artistry, adapted for the modern muse.
How has your aesthetic evolved since you first launched the label 25 years ago?
Early on, my designs leaned heavily on classic Indian motifs. Today, they’re quieter in statement but louder in craftsmanship. I’ve embraced unconventional pairings like rose gold with polki, and a more global sensibility, yet the soul remains undeniably Indian.
Your pieces are both contemporary and regal. How do you strike this balance?
It’s about dialogue, not dominance. A jadau necklace might be reworked with a minimalist clasp, an emerald’s vintage cut could be set in a geometric, almost architectural frame. The regal essence comes from the gemstones and techniques, while modernity lives in wearability.
Is there a particular gemstone you find yourself coming back to?
Emeralds in modern settings. Their depth is timeless, but I love juxtaposing them with sleek, asymmetrical designs in gold. For example, I recently designed a cocktail ring paired a Colombian emerald with a cluster of rubies – unexpected yet classic.
Many of your pieces have a bridal or heirloom quality…
Jewellery is a covenant between generations, between a woman and her milestones. When I design a bracelet or a choker, I imagine it being passed down, gaining new stories and sentiments. That’s why durability and adaptability are key.
Tell us about the lifecycle of a typical Archana Aggarwal piece, from sketch to showroom.
It begins with a narrative, a Mughal miniature, an Art Deco curve, or even a client’s personal memory. After sketching, we handpick stones. The goldsmiths and karigars then bring it to life over weeks, sometimes months, with hand-engraving, enamelwork, or micro-pavé. Final QC is obsessive, if it doesn’t feel like art, it doesn’t leave the workshop.
How involved are you in sourcing gemstones or materials? Is ethical sourcing something you actively work towards?
I’m thoroughly involved! I travel all over the world and hand-select stones, ensuring traceability. We work with Fair Trade gold and reclaimed diamonds. Ethical sourcing isn’t just a buzzword; it’s the only way to honour craftsmanship and the earth.
Tell us about a technically challenging piece you created.
I would say designing the recently launched Amethyst collection was a technically challenging yet creatively fulfilling experience. I aimed to craft pieces that would showcase the gemstone’s depth while pushing conventional design boundaries. Pairing amethysts with unexpected settings required innovative techniques and precise craftsmanship, demanding careful consideration of texture, form, and material. Balancing timeless elegance with daring touches was crucial, and I had to ensure that the intricate details and innovative settings wouldn’t compromise the pieces’ durability and aesthetics.
Who is the ‘Archana Aggarwal Woman’ in your mind?
She’s a connoisseur, someone who wears a sari with sneakers or a gown with jhumkas. She values roots but isn’t bound by them. Whether she’s a CEO or a bride, her jewellery is her signature, not her uniform.
India’s jewellery market is constantly shifting. What trends are you observing, and how do you stay relevant without being trend-led?
The most exciting shift is the blurring of boundaries in recent times. Brides are pairing jadau with contemporary gowns, or men embracing gemstones as power accessories. Rather than chase trends, we focus on cultural resonance. For example, a detachable choker that transforms into a bracelet choker answers the demand for versatility without sacrificing tradition. Relevance, for us, means honouring heritage while speaking to modern rhythms of life.
How do you balance custom orders with collection-based retail?
Collections are my creative playground, but bespoke is where magic happens. We cap custom orders to a few a year, ensuring each piece gets undivided attention. The retail line offers accessibility without compromise.
You’ve worked with several celebrities and stylists. What has been the most exciting collaboration so far?
Curating PV Sindhu’s wedding jewellery was an honour. When a champion chooses you to commemorate her most personal milestone, it’s a reminder that jewellery is never just adornment, it’s a testament to identity. We crafted a bespoke necklace in uncut diamonds and layered with delicate rings and earrings.
How do you approach styling jewellery in your campaigns?
Our campaigns are visual poetry, where jewellery becomes a narrative itself. In the Celestial Lume collection, we defied conventions by featuring an African American model, celebrating the beauty of contrast and individuality. This bold approach sparked a movement, with few other jewellers daring to follow suit.
What’s your take on jewellery as a feminist artefact, one that tells stories of women, family, power, and pride?
Jewellery has long been a potent symbol of femininity, power, and identity. For me, as a jewellery designer, each piece is a tangible narrative that weaves together stories of women, family, and heritage. Through my designs, I aim to narrate the multifaceted stories of women, honouring their strength, resilience, and beauty. By blending traditional motifs with modern sensibilities, I strive to create pieces that resonate with women from diverse backgrounds, reflecting their individuality and collective spirit.
Is legacy-building important to you as a designer, and what would you want to be remembered?
Legacy is the only true luxury. I’d want to be remembered not for creating jewellery pieces, but heirlooms with heartbeat. A signature ring that becomes a daughter’s first major purchase, a Navratna necklace that travels from a mother’s trousseau to a granddaughter’s wedding. When someone holds an Archana Aggarwal jewel decades from now, I hope they feel the weight of its stories and exquisite craftsmanship.