At the prestigious INHORGENTA 2025 trade show that concluded in late February, an engaging panel discussion titled “The Rising Indian Jewellery Influence” brought together renowned UK jewellery designer Alice Cicolini and brand architect Radhika Somaia, moderated by Laurent Cartier, Head of Special Initiatives at SSEF.
The conversation spotlighted India’s unparalleled artistry, evolving design narrative, and its growing stature as a global hub for jewellery innovation. Cicolini and Somaia spoke about the rich legacy of Indian craftsmanship and its resonance with international audiences, offering insights into how the country skillfully balances tradition with modernity.
Renowned UK-based jewellery designer, Alice Cicolini, celebrated for her collaborations with Indian artisans, lauded their mastery of techniques such as filigree, granulation, enamelling, gold smithing, and gem-cutting. “India is one of the best places in the world to find people practicing within a lineage of master craftsmanship—skills that have largely been lost over time. India’s craftsmen continue to keep these crafts alive, outshining regions like Europe, where such skills are fading,” she noted.
She also highlighted how India’s jewellery manufacturing has transformed over the past 15 years, evolving from a focus on handmade artistry to a powerhouse capable of producing everything from bespoke designs to mass luxury pieces. “There’s almost nothing you can’t do there [India] anymore,” she said, emphasising the balance of affordability and exceptional craftsmanship that positions India as a leader in the field.
“The quality of production has transformed, but you still have superlative craftsmen alongside high-quality mass luxury production,” Cicolini explained. This duality allows India to cater to diverse markets, from couture jewellers like Viren Bhagat, who is set to open a stunning store in London, to mass luxury Indian brands expanding into the US.
Tradition Meets Modernity
When asked how Indian jewellery traditions have evolved, Somaia emphasised that while the core heritage remains intact, consumer lifestyles are driving change. “We’re very close to our traditions and culture, but as women have jobs and voices now, their sense of style has evolved,” she said. Brides, for instance, still value symbolic pieces like the mangalsutra—traditionally gifted by mothers-in-law with black beads for protection—but now seek versatility and wearability. “Young brides want traditional, but multifunctional, contemporary jewellery that fits into modern lifestyles,” she added.
Cicolini observed that jewellery worldwide is increasingly leaning towards talismans or keepsakes, a trend that aligns with India’s symbolic practices, such as using astrological gemstones. “Astrology has infiltrated every jewellery brand today, and India is at the heart of that symbolic conversation,” she said, citing the growing interest in stones like rose quartz for their perceived energies—a practice rooted in Indian traditions like jyotish jewellery, where gems must touch the skin to impart their benefits.”
Global Perceptions and Storytelling
Cicolini reflected on how international audiences perceive Indian craftsmanship, noting its influence has been significant for centuries. “Perhaps consumers then were less aware of the fact that things that they loved were manufactured in India. Today, that influence is more visible as consumers become aware of India’s role in producing beloved designs.”
She credited brands like Sabyasachi, who recently celebrated 25 years of success with a standalone store in New York, for bridging cultural gaps, styling traditional Indian jewellery in Western contexts to make it accessible and appealing globally.
Somaia stressed the power of storytelling in differentiating Indian brands in a crowded marketplace. “Product comes first, but visuals are key in today’s content-driven world,” she said. “People don’t read long-form copy anymore, so authentic, brand-aligned visuals—whether images or videos—are how you connect emotionally with diverse audiences.” She urged Indian brands to champion local creative talent rather than relying on Western photographers or stylists.
Opportunities and Challenges Ahead
Looking forward, Cicolini sees a nuanced appreciation of Indian design as the next big opportunity. “The world is ready for a more complex understanding of Indian aesthetics—beyond the ‘more is more’ style to a refined, ‘less-is-more’ approach,” she said, citing Indian fashion brands like Raw Mango as inspiration. She advised emerging jewellery designers to explore India’s diverse regional traditions—Rajasthan’s opulence, Tamil Nadu’s singular design aesthetic—and bring their unique voices to the conversation, whether they’re Indian or Western designers manufacturing in India.
She noted that Indian consumer tastes are evolving rapidly, with buyers becoming more confident in their choices and seeking unique pieces. This shift has given rise to independent local designers who create beautiful designs that appeal to both Western and Eastern markets. “It’s an exciting time for the industry, as brands strive to cater to both audiences equally. My role, when working with designers, is to help bridge this gap—ensuring that visuals and designs resonate across cultures, whether it’s an Indian piece of jewellery with a contemporary touch or something that feels globally relevant.
Somaia highlighted styling as a critical challenge for Indian brands entering new markets. “Take a pair of chand bali earrings to the US—without context, people would not know how to pair them with clothes,” she explained. “You have to recontextualise it—pair a choker with a blazer or a T-shirt with traditional earrings—to bridge the West and East.” Education through styling, she noted, helps global audiences resonate with Indian jewellery intuitively.
Collaboration and Respect
Having lived in India for five years, Cicolini remarked that she knows many international brands that produce their couture collections in the country without giving credit. “But for me, openly recognising my craftspeople has had a real impact—one of them now has clients worldwide. This transparency matters because, ultimately, everyone working in handmade craft is in a fight for survival, no matter where they are in the world,” she stated.
For independent designers seeking to collaborate with Indian artisans, Cicolini stressed the importance of building relationships over time, not treating craftsmen as mere production units. “I sat with my master enameller for a year to understand his practice,” she shared. “They’re artistic collaborators—give them the respect of an artist, and you’ll gain from their mastery.”
A Global Future Rooted in Heritage
As India’s jewellery industry grows—both domestically, where tastes are evolving, and internationally, where demand is surging—the panel underscored a unifying theme: the power of craft and storytelling. Whether retaining heritage through masterful techniques or adapting to modern sensibilities, India’s influence on the global stage is undeniable. As Cicolini concluded, “It’s India’s time.”