Design At the Heart Of IIJS Premiere

Savio Jewellery
Gem Plaza
Dassani Brothers

This year, the focus of IIJS Premiere exhibitors has been on presenting design-centric collections across all categories. On display pret and bridal lines dressed in diamonds and an array of pastel hued gemstones. High on finish, and crafted with technical expertise, jewellery today concentrates harder on the wearability quotient. Openset gem-set chokers, temple jewellery haraams, necklaces that feel like a second skin, bracelets that bend and curve to adjust to your wrist size, chand baalis and long earrings that gently graze the shoulders, and eye-watering finger bling from classic to couture styles — all are in demand.

Gem Plaza witnessed heavy demand for one-off pieces mainly set with morganite and multi-sapphires. “We have been getting orders for pret and bridal lines and we have been getting a lot of new buyers from the southern region this time,” informed Sakhil Dhadda, one of the directors of the firm.

“The show has been phenomenal,” said Sumit Dassani of Dassani Brothers. The company have almost sold out their bridal range of open setting polki and gemstone jewellery ranging between Rs. 8 and Rs. 15 lakh. Chand baalis up to Rs. 3.50 lakh were the hottest items. “We have been using pastel shades like Russian emeralds, tanzanite, corals, rubies, kyanites and polkis for our latest collection.”

Couture designer Anand Ranawat, too, received new buyers from the South and East. His vibrant diamond and gemstone one-off creations were a hit. “The colour combination that we use attracts buyers,” he said, adding, “we cater to several designer boutiques across India.”

Jaipur-based designer Ankit Malpani’s open polki designs were popular at the show. “Buyers want contemporary jewellery without losing the roots of traditionalism. The new buyers that we met from the South were enamoured of our collection that is highlighted with French enamel.” Malpani informed that moonstones, onyx, rosewood collection, gold textures are trending currently.

Some exhibitors stated that that most of their visitors were new. An ebullient Samir Tulsyan of TJ Impex remarked that 90% of the visitor footfalls at his booth consisted of only new buyers from the southern regions. “Most of my diamond bridal pieces are already sold out,” he said. His single line dainty bracelets dotted with fancy-cut diamonds were sought after.

Jewellery designer Priti Bhatia of Awesome Sparklers exhibited with the intention of collaborating with southern region retailers, and she was not disappointed. She stated that there was heavy demand for her flexible diamond chokers laced with gemstones. “I had done my homework and showed many designs on the iPad to the retailers, who placed orders for customised collections. Our clients from the South are very particular about the finish and quality of gemstones and diamonds.” The company also got many orders for diamond-studded gold watches featuring Swiss mechanism. Costing Rs. 15 lakh, Bhatia received several bookings for the line.

High-end diamond jewellery brand Zundaa received orders for its petite jewellery consisting of chain bracelets and chain necklaces. “The show is a good platform to network and touch base with customers as well as vendors, and so far we have received few enquiries from new clients based in the southern region,” noted Toshiba Gautam of Zundaa.

Jaipur Jewels by Vaibhav Dhadda booked orders for cameos. Dhadda shared, “We connected with new customers from the South and North and they picked the gradient gemstone collection and cameos with various themes. Business has been smooth sailing and we are happy with the new venue.”

Roshiel Zaveri of Wondercuts informed that they had busy two days. “We received many buyers from the South who are keen to source jewellery with different colour combinations. We have an in-house gem cutting unit where we cut gems into various shapes based on the design that we intend to manufacture, It is always the design that dictates the use of colour gems and their cuts. Our collection of multi sapphires is inspired by the Pantone Colour of the Year. We have also introduced slim and flexible stackable bracelets that are sprinkled with corals, diamonds and rose cuts in fancy shapes.

Baljit Singh Nagi of Midas Touch, a first-time IIJS participant, informed that they had launched uncut polki jewellery in open setting. “We use different kinds of combinations in our bridal polki jewellery and we are transparent about our business. Each and every component used in this jewellery is conveyed to the customer – details about the gemstones, sizes, carats gold karatage, etc. Our polki jewellery has a touch of modernity for today’s customers.” The bridal range is priced from Rs. 5 lakh to Rs. 40 lakh, and the daily wear is priced up to Rs. 5 lakh. “The footfalls are good, and buyers are showing interest in polki jewellery. It’s a great start for us. We have our manufacturing facility in Jaipur and Amristar. We have our retail stores in London and one in Amristar. Our experience at IIJS has been wonderful.”

The months spent under lockdown gave exhibitors enough time to reinvent, experiment and present lines that are breathtaking.

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