In The Spotlight @ Couture 2022

Solitaire’s US correspondent Smitha Sadanandan concludes the second part of her series on the exciting collections that were presented at COUTURE 2022.

Here are some of the new collections underlining excellence in design and craftsmanship that grabbed the attention of visitors.


“This year, we met with almost all the retailers we had hoped to meet. We designed many pieces for the Couture 2022 show along with additions to Paro, Kyoto, Bombay, Ladakh and Nuur,” said Milan Choksi, Founder and Creative Director of Mumbai-based Moksh. Eye-catching new pieces included danglers, stick earrings, pearl band rings set with baguette diamonds and coloured gems.

The Stick earrings from the Nuur Collection are channel-set baguette diamonds and three cylindrical gem-set motifs accentuated with pearls. By Moksh

The popular Jodhpur collection called to mind the intricate ‘jaali’ work of the Mehrangarh Fort in the city of Jodhpur. The pieces featured diamonds with an exquisite pattern of pierced gold. Another best-seller from Moksh, the Kyoto line, embodied Wabi-Sabi, which is more than a Japanese design philosophy. “It is a way of life that while appreciating and accepting complexity, values simplicity, and intimacy. The Kyoto collection is our interpretation of the seven principles of Wabi-Sabi,” explained Milan.

The Ladakh collection paid homage to the surreal landscapes of Ladakh – the rugged Himalayas, snow-capped peaks, and the Indus River. “The beauty of Ladakh is accentuated by the serene blue skies, intense green patches and the vibrant prayer flags waving ceremoniously over the consecrated Buddhist Stupas.”

The Paro collection was inspired by the ubiquitous traditional prayer wheels found in the Buddhist temples in Bhutan. The hoops rendered in gold embody the essence of the spiritual muse.


Jewellery designer Ananya Malhotra’s multi-cut and coloured diamonds sparkled in her new offerings that were revealed at this year’s Couture show. She reinvented her Wave hoops to make them “multi-functional” – the earrings could be worn with additional elements or pared down for simplicity, while also catering to the demand for huggie earrings with new styles added to her Scatter collection. The Chakra collection, one of Ananya’s best-sellers still, continued to enchant with rings, earrings and new styles set with rubies and coloured gems.

The Chakra ear studs set with diamonds and rubies. By Ananya

“The fluidity and the forms in the collection are inspired by the concept of metaphysical energy and movements. The designs represent the movement of energy between the root and the crown chakras. The collection uses diamonds, black diamonds, emeralds, rubies and blue sapphires with each coloured gemstone epitomising the flow of energy from ground up,” said Ananya. The designer also debuted a new all-diamond high jewellery collection at the Couture show.


Designer Sweta Jain of Goshwara put the spotlight on her love of the 80s disco fever – where people feel most alive while dancing the night away at a discotheque with a ball at the center of it all. The limited-edition double-ball drop earrings in rose or white gold (blackened) featuring reverse set pink sapphires, blue sapphires or green tsavorites are effortlessly chic and perfect for the pandemic-era.

The Disco double-ball earrings set with blue sapphires on blackened white gold. By Goshwara

“As everything’s been open since the pandemic, we want people to wear something very fun and colourful that will make them feel more alive than ever,” added Sweta. Among the new designs was the G-One four stone emerald rind fenced in by a line of diamonds and crafted in 18-karat yellow gold.

G-One four stone emerald ring. By Goshwara


Elior Mordechai came up with a handful of new pill pendants and rings. He has channelled the fun vibe across the dual pill rings set with multi-coloured gems as well as stackable pendants in blue sapphires, diamonds and pink sapphires. The paper clip collection saw new colourways and bolder pieces came about in the form of Mosaico earrings in autumnal hued fancy diamonds.

The paper clip earrings. By Elior

M Spalten

Melissa Spalten designer of M. Spalten debuted new pieces, including the Double Heart and Single Heart earrings in a slightly smaller scale. Made in 14-karat gold, the earrings are set with a combination of gemstones such as turquoise and chrysoprase or turquoise and opal. The designer’s obsession with opals were mirrored across the pretty opal necklaces. Pink opals, lapis lazuli and opal triplet stones found their way into the colourful designs.

Opal and turquoise Double Heart earrings. By M Spalten

Melissa’s new Lady Necklace came in variations of heart- or round-shaped stones, with tiny diamonds or coloured gems punctuating the necklace. Rainbow coloured gems cheered on as they huddled on her popular Gem ID bracelet stacks.

Gem ID bracelet infused with rainbow-coloured gemstones.
By M Spalten

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