A set of six 20-karat gold open-worked bangles; two larger bangles set with white sapphires and emeralds and Moti Jali. The four smaller bangles are decorated with open-worked poppy flowers, set with small pearls and an emerald bead. India, Rajasthan, Bikaner, 19th Century. By Van Gelder Indian Jewellery Heritage Collection
Indian architecture has always influenced jewellery artists since centuries. The rare charm of the zigzag or intricate latticed (Jali) window screens gracing the imposing structures of the country, found subtle and at times, not so subtle, references in gold and silver ornaments. The negative space in a piece — formed by labyrinth geometric motifs or trellised screens — was meant to highlight the play of light and make the ornament light in weight and wearable.
Noelle Viguurs – van Gelder, co-partner of Van Gelder Indian Jewellery, based in the Netherlands, observes, “Such designs are visually impactful and mesmerising – the jewellery looks delicate and inviting, too.”
Here are some eye-catching pieces by top brands and designers that interpret this oft-recurrent motif in interesting ways. Feast your eyes on them.
Pearl and diamond gold ear studs featuring lacy motifs. By Moksh
A platinum brooch set with circular half moon and pear shaped table-cut diamonds. circular-cut diamonds. By Viren Bhagat.
The ornamental latticed cuff is set with 52 carats of Burmese rubies, and dotted with 21 carats of fine-cut diamonds and 14 carats of cultured pearls. By Moksh
The stunning stylised latticed cuff rendered in white gold bears a floral motif. The entire piece sparkles with fancy-cut Forevermark diamonds. By Narayan Jewellers by Ketan and Jatin Chokshi
The Trellis earrings are inspired by blossoms swaying in the summer breeze – the perfectly matched ombré sapphires and pear-shaped diamonds tremble over a shimmering diamond lattice. Aesthete by Walking Tree
A pair of 18-karat gold open-worked ear pendants, in hexagonal jali motif, set with peridot. By Van Gelder Indian Jewellery, Contemporary Collections – Jali
The magnificent bracelet from the Sindoor collection bearing trellis motifs, is inlaid with rubies and topped with an old mine diamond. By The Gem Palace
Lacy earrings crafted in 18-karat rose gold accented with diamonds. By Anmol
