“Using independent grading labs ensures accurate assessments. Leveraging a reputable third party for grading upholds honesty and fosters consumer trust.”
As part of the Legacy of Leadership knowledge series for the GIA Alumni Collective worldwide, we had the honour of engaging in an insightful conversation with Stanley Zale, President of Zale Advisors LLP. A fourth-generation leader in the gem and jewellery industry, Stanley offers a perspective that seamlessly blends the wisdom of tradition with the demands of modern innovation. In this series, Stanley shares his views on leadership, the industry’s evolution, and the legacy he continues to shape.
His leadership philosophy reflects the values passed down through his family, combining them with contemporary practices to ensure the jewellery industry remains transparent, ethical, and aligned with consumer expectations. “Embracing new technologies while staying true to ethical standards is crucial for advancing transparency. Our commitment to these principles ensures we meet evolving consumer expectations and honour the legacy of trust passed down through generations,” he emphasises.
During the session, Zale recounted a pivotal moment in 2012 when the discovery of 600 laboratory-grown diamonds misrepresented as natural caused a significant shift in the industry. “We were alarmed by the news,” he recalled. “We immediately checked every diamond in our possession and found that 30 were Type IIa. We sent them all to a laboratory for grading, and fortunately, they were all confirmed to be natural. From that moment onward, we implemented rigorous checks on all of our diamonds at Stuller. As more advanced instruments became available, we integrated them into our screening processes to ensure even greater accuracy.”
Building on this experience, Stanley emphasised the complexity of the jewellery industry’s supply chain, explaining how it varies depending on the materials involved. He highlighted that the supply chains for precious metals, laboratory-grown diamonds, and natural gemstones each follow distinct paths from source to market. To address these complexities, Stanley emphasized the importance of adhering to industry standards set by organizations such as the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) and CIBJO (Confédération International de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfèvrerie des Diamants, Perles et Pierres). These frameworks, he noted, are critical for upholding ethical practices, especially as consumer demand for transparency continues to rise.
Stanley stressed that today’s consumers want detailed information about the production and labour practices behind their products. “Supply chain transparency allows businesses and consumers to understand how goods are produced and distributed,” he explained. “Meeting these expectations are crucial for staying relevant in the industry,” Stanley remarked. He also highlighted the role of emerging technologies like blockchain systems and initiatives such as Canadamark, which help track gemstones from source to market, ensuring that consumers receive accurate information about their purchases.
Stanley also highlighted the critical role of third-party grading in safeguarding consumer trust. “The best protection for consumers comes when diamonds are graded by independent entities with no vested financial interest in the transaction,” he explained. “For example, GIA offers this essential level of impartiality, ensuring that buyers receive objective, reliable information about their diamonds.” He pointed out that in markets like India, where consumers are often investment-driven, clarity about the long-term value and quality of purchases is paramount. “Transparency, whether selling natural or laboratory-grown diamonds, is what today’s consumers demand, and it is crucial to maintaining industry relevance.”
Stanley reinforced the idea that the jewellery industry’s success is a shared responsibility. “This is our industry, and we’re all in it together. We have an obligation to ensure its sustainability and growth,” he stated. He stressed that collective success hinges on every stakeholder upholding high standards of integrity. “If one of us fails, we all fail,” he cautioned. “Screening is the bare minimum. Advanced analytical tools like spectrometers can verify a diamond’s origin with precision. As an industry, we must embrace these technologies to secure our future.”
The insightful session ended with a Q&A segment, where Stanley addressed the questions and concerns of GIA alumni, providing valuable clarity on key industry issues.
Q1. How would you compare the manufacturing practices in the U.S. with those in India?
The gap between manufacturing practices in the U.S. and India is steadily closing. Reflecting on stories from my father and grandfather, who described factories in India with subpar working conditions, I’ve witnessed significant progress over my 40-plus years in the business. During my recent visit to Mumbai, I was thoroughly impressed by the factories I toured. The working conditions have vastly improved, and advanced business practices, including Kaizen and other methodologies, are now being implemented to ensure quality assurance and efficient process flow. Thanks to technological advancements, the difference between manufacturing practices in the U.S. and India has become almost indistinguishable.
Q2. What are your thoughts on the grading of mounted diamonds or studded jewellery? How do you view this evolution in the industry?
In my view, providing more information to consumers benefits everyone involved. There’s no downside to increased transparency; we can only gain from it. As jewellery merchants, we understand the quality of the items we purchase and incorporate them into our pieces. It is crucial to disclose this information to consumers, allowing them to know precisely what they are buying and avoiding any surprises. If an independent grading laboratory offers a service to evaluate mounted diamonds, I would advocate for utilizing it to enhance transparency. However, it is important that this evaluation is conducted by an independent third-party platform.
Q3. How does the colour grading of loose diamonds differ from that of diamonds set in jewellery in terms of authenticity? Additionally, how does a loose diamond’s grade impact its perceived rarity?
When a diamond is set in jewellery, the interaction with the metal and the setting can alter its apparent grade. Often, the setting enhances the diamond’s appearance, making it seem of a higher grade than its actual rarity. This is especially true for diamonds with fancy colours, where the setting might elevate their perceived grade. As a jeweller, it’s concerning to see a high colour grade without an accompanying report, which could raise doubts about the authenticity of the practice. Therefore, obtaining a grading report is crucial to ensuring the product’s authenticity.
“Misrepresenting a diamond’s quality isn’t just unethical—it damages the entire industry,” Stanley warned. “To ensure the jewellery trade continues to thrive for future generations, we must uphold transparency and integrity at every level.”