Pratiksha Prashant Highlights Jewellery Trends

PRATIKSHA PRASHANT of Kishandas & Co., Hyderabad, gets the market pulse right for their detailed, exquisite and highon-quality jewellery, which is nothing less than a visual odyssey. Here’s Pratiksha’s take on the ongoing trend directions in bridal and non-bridal segments. The design grammar for brides-to-be seems to be more or less traditional, while other consumers are challenging themselves by going for modern templates.

Apractising architect, Pratiksha Prashant is the face of the heritage brand which is run by the third and fourth-generation of the family. The patriarch Krishandas and his two sons, Prashant and Nitin, are at the helm of affairs and look into design and production. Pratiksha, Prashant’s wife, joined the Krishandas business in early 1995. She conceptualised the artistic flagship store of Kishandas & Co. at Begumpet. Here’s her take on consumer choices in general.

Bridal trends

Even though the markets are listless, our clients do buy jewellery that is occasion-driven. The Indian middle and upper middle class consumer still considers jewellery as an investment, and so quality is of utmost importance – a factor that is imbibed in the DNA of our brand. For the bridal segment, even the most modern bride-to-be prefers to wear traditional sets on their wedding day. Our clients give more weightage to quality than to design for these main pieces.

Investment is a concept that is always at the back of the customer’s mind. Not that they come to sell off jewellery at a later date. Instead, they come for exchange only to upgrade the piece or repurpose it especially if it is going to be handed down to the next generation.

My father-in-law, Kishandas, always quotes in jest: “Be happy when you sell a piece of jewellery; and be equally happy when you buy it back.” The reason is all of our jewellery is made in-house. And quality is something we pride ourselves in.

In the earrings segment, lightweight pieces are favoured – be it jhumkas, chand balis or large ear studs. We ensure that most of our jadau pieces have minimum lac used in the pieces for kundan-set gems. Brides long for comfort during those tedious wedding ceremonies that can last for many hours. Our constant endeavour is to manage an ideal and bearable weight for the bridal pieces, especially in the earrings segment.

Jewellery styles change depending on the type of wedding one is having. If it is a North Indian style wedding, the brides prefer chokers or necklaces that are large bibs with more emphasis on diamonds teamed with coloured stones and pearls in jadau style. The South Indian bride will prefer layers of necklaces – studded with 60% rubies and the rest would be polkis. Since there is no concept of a veil in South Indian weddings, the brides adorn their head with hairpins and decorative ornaments. For the North Indian bride matha pattis are a huge trend.

Men’s jewellery is picking up and this is one category no jeweller can ignore any more. On top of the list are sherwani buttons, neckpieces, turban ornaments and more. We try to complement the bride and the groom’s design motifs – thus the buttons have similar design elements as that of the bridal necklace or sometimes, the men prefer pendant necklaces that are modular in nature. The pendant can eventually be worn by the wife later in life.

Non-bridal segment

Understated fashion is the name of the game. Women opt for a statement piece which can be worn on multiple occasions – the piece has to have a repeat value; a piece that can be accessorised with a variety of clothes.

Indians generally prefer red and green gemstones and pearls – a combination that can team up with varied outfits.

Unlike the past when shoulder dusters ruled the day, women today are opting for short earrings in length veering towards chic, or they go for ear studs.

Overall, the comfort factor is given more importance.

As for cocktail rings, they are not doing that well. For the first time buyers of diamond jewellery, solitaire rings are absolute favourites. Women go for 30 to 50 pointer solitaires. The purchases become more elaborate in terms of design on their second or third purchase.

Long tasselled necklaces are coming of age. We do make bespoke sautoirs with diamonds or diamond spheres on the chain to make it slightly modern.

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