Los Angeles-based jewellery artist Rachel Quinn has a strong preference for whimsy. Her creations imbued with Daliesque attributes, reflect her other unbeknownst skill – that of a painter. The ‘in-your-face’ jewels, featuring lips, lipsticks, hearts, webs, or dice, infuse a playful energy into her narratives. Her latest collaboration with Gemfields unveils yet another quirky and artistic collection, evoking a sense of wonder and curiosity.
Having started your artistic journey in painting and sculpture, how and why did you veer towards jewellery making? We would like to know a little more about your journey.
I began making jewellery as a way to overcome a creative block in my painting. Wanting to keep my hands busy and explore a new medium, I set aside my brushes and dove into something entirely different. Serendipitously, I connected with a Brooklyn-based jewellery artist who was looking for an assistant and willing to provide training.
After a couple of years working for her, I decided to deepen my expertise and pursue formal training as a bench jeweller.
I spent the next two years earning my metalsmithing degree from the Fashion Institute of Technology and, upon graduation, hit the ground running. Over the following decade, I honed my craft as a bench jeweller for other designers, while gradually developing my own style and building a self-sustaining business.
Your jewellery is often described as whimsically distinct and deeply poetic. How do you balance playfulness with fine craftsmanship in your designs?
My jewellery training instilled in me a deep commitment to precision and quality craftsmanship, which serves as the foundation for my playful designs. I believe a whimsical aesthetic truly shines when paired with meticulous attention to detail and quality—it elevates the work, transforming it into something both delightful and refined.
Surrealism plays a significant role in your work. Do you have a favourite surrealist motif you often return to?
My favourite motif would have to be lips. Their distinct form naturally draws attention and adds a romantic, whimsical element. In surrealism, lips often transcend their literal meaning by representing themes of desire and human connection.
Handcrafting each piece in your Los Angeles studio is central to your brand. What does the process of bringing a new design to life look like for you? We’d like to know about the concept to creation process; the gems and metals that are preferred by you; and so on.
Every idea begins with a rough sketch. I have loads of sketch books as I firmly believe that censoring even one idea stifles creativity and closes the door to unexpected possibilities. Once I feel in my gut that a design has its own life (and aligns with my aesthetic), I move to my bench to breathe life into it in silver, brass, or wax. Transforming a design from 2D to 3D is always an interesting and unexpected journey where the piece begins to reveal itself.
If a design is better suited for CAD, I create a detailed technical drawing, including all the specifications and vital details, to collaborate with a CAD designer. This process often involves a few rounds of tweaks to ensure the final piece is exactly as I envision it.
The oversized 18-karat yellow gold single die is a playful reminder that the best things in life are a roll of the dice, especially love. Crafted with hand-carved black quartz, the pips are fashioned with Gemfields’ luminous emerald cabochons from Zambia. By Rachel Quinn x Gemfields
I’m particularly drawn to working in 14- and 18-karat yellow gold for its strength and luxurious warmth.
Rubies have long been my favourite gemstone, and after collaborating with Gemfields, my appreciation for them has only deepened.
I have also gained a new love of emeralds.
Jewellery is both personal and expressive. What emotions or experiences do you hope your pieces evoke in the wearer?
My hope is to create a whimsical and joyful experience for the wearer – making fine jewellery that feels both elevated and unique without losing its playful spirit. I believe jewellery can be both precious and fun—a true celebration of individuality and delight.
Inspired by the whimsical world of Alice in Wonderland, these Questions earrings illustrate the doubts and questions that come when falling down a rabbit hole into the unknown.
Handmade in 18-karat yellow gold, these earrings feature brilliant Gemfields rubies from Mozambique and stripes of black enamel inlay. By Rachel Quinn x Gemfields
Can you share insights into your collaboration with Gemfields? What has the experience been like? Do you design around specific gemstones like emeralds and rubies, and is the narrative or mood board defined beforehand?
Working with Gemfields has been an absolute dream. I couldn’t have asked for a more wonderful group of women to collaborate with. Their generosity in granting me full creative freedom allowed me to push my boundaries and create what feels like my most “me” collection yet.
When designing this collection, I began with emotions, translating them into motifs that I felt best captured their essence. Rubies and emeralds became central to my romantic narrative, each carrying supportive meanings to the collection: rubies, as the stone of the heart, embody passion and love, while emeralds symbolise loyalty and new beginnings, adding depth and balance to the story.
Symbolising the bittersweet vulnerability in budding love, this one-of-a-kind 18-karat gold brooch features a ruby heart encircled by an iris of verdant emeralds, all set within mother-of-pearl inlay. The opal tear drop dangles from the corner of the eye. By Rachel Quinn x Gemfields Lover’s Eye Brooch
With over 14 years in the industry, how do you see your brand evolving in the next decade? Are there any new techniques or materials you’re excited to explore?
There’s so much I’m excited to explore in the coming years! I’ve dabbled in intaglio, but I’m eager to delve deeper and develop the proficiency needed to bring my ideas to reality. I also want to refine my skills in vitreous enamelling, as it offers a beautiful way to incorporate my first creative love—painting—into my jewellery.
Jewellery often carries deep sentimental value. Have there been any memorable client stories where your pieces became part of a significant life moment?
My memorial pieces are deeply meaningful to those who wear them, offering a tangible connection to a loved one who has passed.
I create vessel necklaces designed to hold small mementos, often ashes or locks of hair, allowing the wearer to keep that person close to their heart. These pieces serve as a poignant reminder of love’s enduring connection, even beyond death.
The first piece in this collection was born from my own grief nearly a decade ago, and it’s incredibly meaningful to be able to offer others the same comfort and solace that necklace has given me.
What is your retail model? Is it omnichannel, and how many boutiques do you operate?
I sell directly to customers through my website, www.rachelquinn.com, as well as through my wonderful retail partners located through the US as well as Japan and the UK.