Based in Hong Kong, Uni Kim holds the distinction of being Sotheby’s first South Korean auctioneer. After joining in 2016 as one of the youngest members of the jewellery department, she rose through the ranks by heading several themed diamond and jewellery auctions. Today, she serves as deputy director and co-head of sales at the jewellery department at Sotheby’s Hong Kong.
In an interview with Shilpa Dhamija, Kim shares her fascination for nature’s sparkling creations and insights on the latest gem and jewellery auction trends.
How did you start your journey in the auction and jewellery world? What was the first piece of jewellery that you auctioned?
I grew up mostly in South Korea, but I also lived in the US and Hong Kong. I was always intrigued by how gems and minerals are formed under the earth and that is what drove me towards studying diamonds. I studied gemology at the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) in Hong Kong because the origins and history of gems and jewels have been my lifelong passion.
The first jewellery piece I auctioned was a Seahorse Brooch, a design by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. I had been reading about Schlumberger’s iconic creations for Tiffany and wanted to ensure everything was perfect, especially the calculations. I was quite nervous. The brooch, featuring peridot, diamonds, and rubies, carried an estimate of HK$100,000–150,000 and ultimately sold for HK$151,200. It was a unique piece, and it was thrilling to see bidders enthusiastically raising their paddles for it.

How has the auction world evolved in recent years and what aspects of jewellery auctions continue to remain unchanged?
We’ve observed a significant influx of new clients entering the auction space, particularly post-Covid. With increased access to information online, many have become comfortable navigating and purchasing through digital platforms. In the past year alone, we have noticed about 30% new bidders, many of them are millennials and Gen-Z.
Our online auction platform has evolved considerably. Even our renowned Magnificent Jewels auctions are now partially sold online. Through our digital outreach, we’ve seen a significant increase in North American buyers participating in Hong Kong sales, and vice versa. The digital evolution of the auction world has effectively erased many regional boundaries for collectors.
The most sought-after pieces remain signed jewels, creations from iconic brands, many of which were established in the late 19th or early 20th century such as Harry Winston and Graff. Even newer collectors are drawn to the allure of signed pieces. The Korean market, in particular, has demonstrated a strong and growing appetite for signed jewels and distinguished vintage pieces.
What notable trends do you think are shaping the current jewellery and gems auctions? Do you think they will leave a lasting mark in auction world history?
Coloured diamonds and gemstones have gained immense popularity, fuelled by landmark pieces that have set historic benchmarks in the auction world over the past five years. One of the most remarkable diamonds sold recently was the sale of the Williamson Pink Star in 2022. It was a 11.15 carat cushion mixed-cut fancy vivid pink diamond. I was in the auction room in Hong Kong when it was being auctioned. It was one of those rare gems where we just couldn’t predict when the hammer would go down because of the demand it garnered during the live auction.
The diamond was originally found in the Willianson mine in Tanzania. It was a type IIa diamond with virtually no nitrogen. It auctioned for US$49.9 million (approx ₹400 crore) while its estimate was about US$21 million!!
Prior to that, a notable blue diamond set a significant benchmark. Since these landmark events, we’ve observed a sustained and growing demand from collectors seeking such extraordinary gemstones.

What are the other notable trends in diamond auctions?
Beyond coloured diamonds, there is a growing demand for antique diamond stones and Edwardian-style or Art Deco rivière necklaces. These pieces possess an evergreen charm, particularly when they remain unaltered. Many of these diamonds were originally cut or faceted under different lighting conditions, such as candlelight, giving them a distinct character from modern cuts. While they may not always have the best clarity, their uniqueness and historical significance make them highly desirable to collectors seeking a connection to the past.
Even the most seasoned collectors are diversifying their portfolios with antique diamonds. Younger clients are also drawn to these gems, particularly for their unique cuts, such as the moval cut.

Do you see more B2B or B2C buyers participating in jewellery auctions in Hong Kong?
The buyer landscape is likely divided equally between private collectors and commercial entities. Several factors influence auction participation, including the depth of a collector’s knowledge and their ability to strategically invest in a gemstone at the opportune moment.
How should Indian gems and jewellery brands position themselves to enhance the desirability of their products in the auction market?
Storytelling is essential. Take the example of Viren Bhagat, an Indian jeweller who has made a significant mark internationally. His creations are strikingly contemporary yet steeped in tradition. One of the most memorable pieces I encountered was a brooch, set with exquisite Jade, diamond and ruby. Holding that piece, I was struck by its intricate craftsmanship and the beauty of the carving. It was estimated to sell between HK$2 to 2.8 million but it sold exceptionally well at HK$3.9 million! It was designed as a stylised poppy flower with carved jade petals, embellished with cabochon ruby sepals and pear-shaped diamond stamens.
This level of storytelling is vital. Renowned maisons like Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, and Cartier consistently host exhibitions worldwide, weaving rich narratives and historical context into their collections and highlighting their evolution. Like the origin of Cartier’s iconic Panther design, inspired by Jeanne Toussaint, a fiercely independent designer who infused her creations with the bold and empowering spirit of the Panther.
Ultimately, it’s about connecting people to the creators behind these masterpieces because, at its core, jewellery is made for people to wear. When that connection is presented in an artistic, meaningful, and relatable way, it resonates deeply with collectors.