The Enduring Allure Of Pachelis

(Left) Openwork domes lined with round diamonds and topped with fancy-cut polkis grace these pacheli bangles garnished with rubies. By Prism Jewellery (Centre) Lined with pearls, the pacheli bangle features curvy spokes topped with diamond-embellished conical patterns. By K P Sanghvi Jewels Pvt. Ltd (Top) The singular pacheli bangle is alternated with diamond-set flowers alternated with circular domes. By Prism Jewellery (Bottom) The gold pachelis with enamelled floral motifs are embedded on diamond scrolls bordered by mother-of-pearl patterns. By K P Sanghvi Jewels Pvt. Ltd

These knockout and distinct type of bangles are enjoying a comeback in modern avatars!

Pacheli or Gokhru bangles are one of the most iconic wrist ornaments of Rajasthan. Popular since centuries, the royal wristwear, worn especially by Rajasthani married women, is adorned with jaali work or diamond florets; or features like enamelled circular or flower motifs along the entire circumference of the bangle. The trend for pachelis continues to remain strong, but today they are reinvented into modern formats to appeal to the young brides across India. Here’s what is being showcased at IIJS Signature 2023.

Abhishek Raniwala, Creative Director & Co-founder, Raniwala 1881, notes that pachelis or bangadi are generally worn as a pair by brides during their weddings. The bangle has a thick rim featuring small, round gold protrusions all around it, thus making it wide in diameter. “The gold protrusions are not necessarily shaped like spheres. Today, we find many variations of this motif. Furthermore, the traditional pacheli bangles don’t have a clasp, which distinguishes them from kadas,” explains Raniwala.

Pacheli bangles are one of the most timeless pieces, notes Dinesh Dassani, Partner, Dassani Brothers. “Earlier, pachelis were crafted only in 22-karat gold and studded with white sapphires or polkis and enhanced with meenakari work. The florets around the circumference were embellished with pearls and polkis. However, today, the Pacheli designs have evolved due to new manufacturing concepts. The bangles are paired with polkis and brilliant-cut diamonds and precious stones such as rubies, emeralds, and pearls to add a modern touch to these traditional bangles.”

(Top) The single kada gets enhanced with trellised motifs accented with polkis, rubies and emeralds, and alternated with stylised peacocks in diamonds and blue and red enamel. By Dassani Brothers (Right) The stylised pair of diamond-set striated bangles are patterned with pear-shaped diamond motifs. By Prism Jewellery (Left & Bottom) The stately pair of pachelis feature alternating trellised small and big motifs accented with diamonds, and the bangles are further enhanced with cabochon tanzanites set over scalloped mother-of-pearl patterns. By K P Sanghvi Jewels Pvt. Ltd
(Bottom) The bangle bears chevron patterns set with rubies and diamonds topped with openwork triangular poli-studded florets all along the edge. By Dassani Brothers. (Top) The golden pair of pachelis is adorned with full blooms embellished with pearls and polkis. By Raniwala 1881.
(Right) Diamond-studded lotuses and elephants dressed in black diamonds line the bangle topped by florets. By Dassani Brothers. (Above left) Pastel-shaded enamelled elephants set with gemstones and polkis adorn this single pacheli kada. By House Of Sparsh

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