The Rough & Refined Art of Sweta S.

Novelty is an essential element in Kolkata-based designer Sweta’s fine jewellery creations – uncut, raw, and craggy gemstones are enfolded with slender gold motifs to lend a textural contrast to jewels, which are sought after by today’s generation.

Sweta, designer and founder, Sweta S Fine Jewelry, is driven by creative passion. Fuelled by the desire to make her mark, the designer mostly works on bespoke commissions, as well as designs collections that are rooted in Indian heritage that have unusual, modern-day contours.

What drew you to the world of jewellery design?

I’ve been designing jewellery for almost a decade now. Ours is a business family with ancient roots in Rajasthan, but I was raised in the artistic and cultural environment of Kolkata. Jewellery was an intrinsic part of our lives.

As a child, I used be fascinated by jewellers and patuas (craftsmen who string pearls) who visited from our home to book orders as every occasion, big and small — Diwali, Holi, birthdays, Teej, weddings of close family members — was marked by gifting jewellery.

My grandmother always took me along on her visits to her family jeweller, a ritual that was more like a visit to a favourite granduncle. Those relationships were built over generations, on a solid foundation of mutual respect and trust.

There’s no question that colours and designs have fascinated me from as long ago as I remember.

In my growing up years, I developed a keen interest in architecture and heritage. It was clear to me that these two aspects ‘spoke’ to the same areas of the intellect and soul that fine jewellery did. These experiences have fed and continue to nourish my mind’s ‘inner library’ that, today, inspires my creations as a jewellery designer.

Combination of ruby leaves, natural yellow sapphires and pearls adorn these linear gold earrings. By Sweta S Fine Jewelry

Tell us about your brand and when was it launched?

I launched Sweta S Fine Jewelry in 2012. We specialise in bespoke and handcrafted jewellery that extols the raw beauty of natural gemstones. We draw upon the enormous experience of our master craftsmen, yet our designs speak to patrons with an eye for the contemporary.

Gold hoops set with natural emeralds and ruby betki. By Sweta S Fine Jewelry

Which are your major markets, export and domestic?

In India, we have clients in all the major metros and tier 2 cities, and abroad, we sell in the United States, Europe and, most recently, Taiwan.

What is your target audience, global and domestic?

Sweta S Fine Jewelry is for the aficionado who hasn’t found what she’s been looking for at the traditional family jeweller. She wishes for bespoke designs to mark a special occasion or desires a contemporary adornment that is understated yet playful, but with a classic touch.

We also do very well with first-time jewellery buyers, who do not have a family jeweller.

Pendant gold earrings dressed in fancy-cut diamonds suspending emerald beads. By Sweta S Fine Jewelry

What inspires your collections, especially Nihaara?

I happened to meet a manufacturer in Jaipur, who specialised in cutting and polishing gemstones. He showed me a small pile of uncut colourful stones that are often unused. The beauty of these untreated precious gems simply captivated me. At that point, I was trying to find my place in the world of jewellery. I had no mentor, no financial backing, or lineage. The raw emeralds, rubies and sapphires reflected my state of being — undiscovered and unrecognised.

When the manufacturer told me that he didn’t need them, I immediately bought those ‘leftovers’. The more I studied them, the more I wanted to present them to the world in their natural state. That is what led to the creation of Nihaara.

What is your best-selling product? Do you make bespoke pieces?

The coloured gemstone category from our Fine Jewelry Collection, Nihaara, and our bespoke orders, which is our forte. We do everything from customised charms bracelets to full bridal sets.

Stylised gold floral chandeliers festooned with emeralds and pearls. By Sweta S Fine Jewelry

What’s your design philosophy?

At Sweta S Fine Jewelry we love to highlight the inherent beauty of natural materials. Creative experimentation and custom commissions are what we do. Clients appreciate our designs because we unite craftsmanship with natural beauty, underpinned by a deep awareness of heritage.

What is your USP?

Original designs, an ability to adapt constantly to market trends, excellent craftsmanship and honest pricing.

These ear studs are patterned with rough rubies adorned with gold leaves. By Sweta S Fine Jewelry

What type of jewellery do brides opt for, and how much are they willing to pay?

Brides today are well-educated, often working professionals or business owners. They are not interested in overly ‘heavy’, traditional pieces that will rarely leave the locker. A desirable bridal necklace today has detachable components that allow it to be ‘dressed down’ for less ceremonial functions.

The price point is very much client driven. Those with a family business background opt for larger pieces and diamond jewellery in pointer sizes. Professionals tend to go for lower price points as they don’t plan to wear their best pieces very often. For solitaire ear studs and rings, however, professionals tend to be more quality conscious.

Vintage gold danglers crafted with fancy-shaped diamonds, emeralds, and pearls. By Sweta S Fine Jewelry

How has the pandemic affected the jewellery industry and business?

We were at a disadvantage, as our trunk shows are a major touchpoint with our clientele. No matter how strong your brand’s online presence is, fine jewellery connoisseurs find their interest piqued by a website or social media page, but buying heavier pieces are always done in person.

The ban on big social occasions, too, has made traditional wearers switch to lighter and more informal pieces.

The pandemic has taught us many lessons. A lot of jewellers have dispassionately got rid of old stock, digitised their internal processes, and reduced inventory.

Lean is definitely in. The internal reorientation goes together with the growing organisation and formalisation of the largely unorganised gems and jewellery sector. The dust is yet to settle. But we are optimistic.

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