As India’s fine jewellery landscape grows more nuanced, a new generation of brands is rethinking what luxury means to the modern buyer. On the horizon is EKARAA, founded by Mehul Jain, whose design philosophy positions jewellery not as occasion-bound ornamentation but as a personal, expressive language. In conversation with Solitaire International, Jain speaks about intentional design, design-confident clients, bridal reinvention, and the emotional architecture behind his Mumbai flagship.
EKARAA speaks to the modern Indian woman… Who is she in your mind, and how does she wear your jewellery differently?
The EKARAA woman is confident, curious, and expressive. She respects tradition but doesn’t feel bound by it. She is someone who celebrates milestones on her own terms, whether it’s a promotion, a personal achievement, a big life occasion, or even a moment of self-love.
She wears jewellery differently, too. In my mind, I see her pairing statement diamond earrings with a power suit, layering a diamond choker necklace with fancy-cut diamonds and coloured stones over a silk dress for a cocktail evening, or even choosing a designer ring for everyday wear instead of settling for a stereotypical basic design.
We also design for these in-between moments, the ones that don’t follow convention but feel just as meaningful.
You describe luxury as intention rather than excess. What does that look like in the design language of your collections?
True luxury has never been about how much you wear. For us, every piece begins with a clear purpose—why it exists, who it is for, and for what occasion it can be worn in real life.
We have three distinct collections, Classique, Prêt and Heirloom, each of which has a different design language. The Classique line focuses on precision of form, balanced proportions and diamonds are chosen for their brilliance and character, not just their size. These are elevated everyday wear essentials with a clean, refined, and contemporary aesthetic.
In the Prêt line, we have more playful designs with coloured diamonds and gemstones. The design language is fun and experimental. Here, negative space, subtle curves, and architectural lines play an important role.
In stark contrast, the Heirloom line, has a regal, bold, and larger-than-life design aesthetic. Expect extravagant bridal sets, higher carat diamonds, traditional polki designs, and versatile looks.
Your debut flagship in Santacruz, Mumbai, feels immersive and experiential…
What sets us apart other than just the jewellery collections, is the end-to-end luxury retail experience for any customer that walks in. The idea was to move away from the traditional jewellery store format and instead create an environment that feels intimate and inspiring, which we have translated through the interiors, the colour palette, the in-store experiences, and the bespoke services.
I wanted the retail space to evoke confidence and joy. Whether a client is buying her first diamond for herself or choosing something for a special milestone, the store should feel like a celebration of her story. EKARAA is a place to pause, dream, and discover pieces that feel tastefully curated to her style and personality.
How does EKARAA reinterpret heirloom dressing for a new generation of brides?
Bridal jewellery has always been about legacy and grandeur, and I deeply respect that. However, today’s bride wants pieces that are meaningful and timeless, without feeling heavy or overdone. We reinterpret heirloom dressing through a modern lens of elegance and individuality, and we focus on refined silhouettes and craftsmanship that can be worn long after the wedding day.
For the new generation of brides, heirloom is no longer just about weight or scale; it’s about emotional value. The pieces honour tradition, but are designed for a woman who defines luxury in her own way.
Your Prêt collection experiments with rose cuts, briolettes and coloured diamonds. Are today’s clients becoming more design-confident?
Yes! Absolutely. They are no longer driven only by convention or classic silhouettes. The Prêt line was created for women who enjoy exploring form, colour, and unexpected diamond cuts as a way of expressing their personality.
We’ve seen a growing appreciation for rose cuts, briolettes, and coloured diamonds because they look more artistic, and less predictable than traditional styles. I believe these choices allow clients to move beyond the idea of jewellery as just an investment and towards jewellery as a form of self-expression.
What excites me most is that our clients are inquisitive; they participate in the design process and trust their instincts. This confidence is shaping a new kind of luxury, wherein clients value creativity and emotion as much as brilliance and craftsmanship.
Customisation is central to your philosophy. What has been the most memorable bespoke request you’ve received so far?
Customisation is one of our core values at EKARAA along with Creativity, Credibility and Craftsmanship. It’s difficult to pick just one, but if I absolutely had to, it would be a bespoke request we received from a young woman who wanted a diamond ring to celebrate her first major career achievement. She asked us to design a ring that reflected her journey, with subtle details that symbolised growth, strength, and independence.
Our team of designers worked with her to bring this vision to life, using smaller diamonds decorating the shank of the ring, reflecting her starting point and moving slowly towards the pinnacle, reflecting her pathway to the top. The diamond shank led to a mounted 2 carat brilliant, cushion-cut solitaire wrapped in a halo of sparkling diamonds. What made this request truly special was how closely we worked with her to translate her story into a refined, contemporary design that she could wear every day, and cherish forever.
These stories of self-celebration, individuality, and intention are what make our jewellery meaningful and the overall experience truly one-of-a-kind.
Jewellery and bridal ensemble styling are your core strengths. How important is it for a jewellery house to think in terms of complete aesthetic storytelling?
I believe jewellery today cannot exist in isolation. A bride is not just choosing ornaments, she is curating a look, a mood, and a memory that’s going to last a lifetime. We look at the bride holistically, her silhouette, her colour palette, her venue … Our private bridal lounge with a curated collection of Indian lehengas, along with our jewellery stylist services for brides allows us to craft a truly extravagant experience for the bride and her family. Moreover, this approach helps us style complete ensembles that feel harmonious and rather than excessive or disconnected. Jewellery becomes an extension of her identity, not just an accessory.
In today’s world, where brides are emotionally invested in their choices, storytelling is key. It transforms jewellery from a product into an experience, and this is exactly what we at EKARAA aim to create: a one-of-a-kind, luxury experience that feels personal, curated, and truly unforgettable.
What does your brand stand for emotionally, beyond craftsmanship?
EKARAA, for me, stands for self-expression, confidence, and the freedom to define beauty on your own terms. Beyond pushing the boundaries of innovation when it comes to craftsmanship, it largely represents a woman’s relationship with herself which could include her milestones, her memories, and the moments she chooses to celebrate quietly or boldly.
At its heart, the brand is about individuality with elegance. It is a reminder that luxury is not just something you wear, but something you feel—essentially a sense of pride, authenticity, and emotional connection that stays with you long after the moment has passed.