Backed by a solid legacy of hand craftsmanship and powered by advanced technology, Indian manufacturers exhibiting at IIJS Bharat Premiere 2026 are scripting an exciting future. With a strong contingent of 122 exhibitors situated in Jasmine Hall at JWCC, the emphasis is clearly on offering a gem- and diamond-studded collections that reflect the changing tastes of consumers. Colour is undoubtedly the dominant refrain. Gemstones of all colours and cuts are in vogue, while fancy-shaped diamonds, rose-cuts, tulip cuts, and customised cuts are further fuelling the creativity of design houses.
Fancies & Rose-cuts
Shagun Shah, Proprietor of The Leo Jewels, has been championing rose-cut diamonds since 2021, ahead of their recent resurgence in popularity. “Within two years, buyers had begun to appreciate their soft, luminous appeal,” he says. “Their diffused glow is unmistakable. A 25-pointer can appear almost like a 50-pointer because of the way the facets reflect light. With growing media attention, rose-cut diamonds are witnessing a remarkable resurgence.”
Beyond rose cuts, Shah notes sustained demand for distinctive coloured gemstones, particularly tourmalines in varied hues and cuts, along with kunzite and tanzanite.
According to Shah, the market’s guiding principle today is “less is more”. “Customers are prioritising quality over quantity, and craftsmanship over sheer size,” he explains.
He also points to a significant shift in buying behaviour at trade shows. Rather than placing large orders with a handful of exhibitors, retailers are spreading their purchases across multiple vendors, typically selecting six to seven pieces from each exhibitor. “Variety has become essential for today’s showrooms,” he says. “Regional tastes are evolving rapidly. Buyers in North India are embracing temple jewellery, while those in the South are exploring jadau and other styles. Retailers want diverse collections that reflect these changing preferences.”
Jewellery studded with icy rose-cut diamonds paired with white diamonds is the flavour of the season. Undulating silhouettes in rings and necklaces take pride of place at Vama Fine Jewels.
Fancy colour diamonds continue to hold their place firmly on popularity charts. P. Hirani Exports has a whole new collection embellished with rare coloured diamonds into classic and contemporary designs.
Lighter Heavyweights
Openwork designs minimise metal usage and maximise visual impact. One such example is the Sikraya collection by Sanskriti Jewels, a poetic tribute to the beauty of Fatehpur Sikri’s iconic jaalis (latticework) and carved stones. Each piece showcases delicate openwork that allows diamonds to shimmer through every aperture, creating an interplay of light and shadow.
Sleek and satin-finished charms, slim station bangles lightly adorned with diamonds and a smattering of gemstones, and mother-of-pearl can be found at Awesome Sparklers. The emphasis is on lightweight gold, finesse of textures and settings, and “jewels that take you easily from a 9-to-5 routine to a cocktail soiree,” says Priti Bhatia, the Founder and Creative Head of the company.
Maitrik Udani of D’yne Jewellery has introduced the Liora collection, inspired by Art Deco architecture, nature, and heirloom aesthetics. Crafted in 14-karat gold with natural diamonds and gemstones, the lightweight, versatile collection features silica- and steel-string elements with detachable components, allowing every piece to be styled in multiple ways for every occasion.
Slim Haslis
Traditionally heavy haslis have paved the way for slim chokers with minimal embellishments in the form of a central pendant or lined with three similar motifs. Haritsons Designs Pvt. Ltd. and Sensuel by Chhaya Jain have a strong line-up of haslis in gold or even cords.
Nature-inspired jewellery, too, is doing well with flora and fauna motifs gloriously rendered in diamonds, polkis and gemstones. However, the thrust is again on minimalism to make the jewellery more versatile and suitable for all occasions.
Brooch Renaissance
Brooches are having a moment in the sun. Sensuel by Chhaya Jain replicates the grandeur of royal heirlooms, by crafting these decorative pins. A standout is a grand unisex 18-karat yellow gold brooch centred on a 3-carat uncut diamond, with 5.50 carats of champagne diamonds that evoke the warm glow of candlelit palaces, while 20 carats of emerald baguettes evoke flourishing gardens, prosperity, and renewal.
Golden Classics
In gold, we are seeing a spectrum of collections – from minimalist to maximalist. On the one hand are feather-light jewels rendered with the help of 3D CAD and 3D printing, laser-cutting, hollow designs, electroforming, tubing and more. On the other are traditional bridal sets rendered with age-old crafts such as filigree, gemstone setting, repousse, and enamelling. Some pieces have bezel-set polkis while others use the art of thewa to embellish them.
At the Select Club creativity and innovation are at their peak, setting new benchmarks in jewellery design.