Austrian-born Gerhard Schreiner was just 17 years old when his fascination for precious stones led him to Colombia to learn about the intricacies of emeralds. Having no familial ties in the world of gems or jewellery, Schreiner relied solely on passion and persistence and spent many years studying and perfecting the art of fine jewellery.
Today, 37 years after his first formative stint in Colombia, Schreiner leads a team of nearly 300 craftsmen skilled in various facets of jewellery making: from designing, cutting, polishing to the sourcing of gems. Based in Munich, his eponymous brand now supplies fine jewellery to hundreds of jewellers across the globe.
In an interview with Shilpa Dhamija, Gerhard Schreiner shares his expertise in manoeuvring the very competitive global jewellery market and offers insights on the way forward for the natural diamond industry.
How did you build your client network? What have been your most important learnings along the way?
We don’t sell directly to the end consumer. We have a wide network of agents and jewellers from around the world who source from us, either from our collections or place special orders for their clients. We supply both boutique and high jewellery pieces.
One of the most important lessons that I have gained in building this network is that no matter where an order comes from, no matter how big or small it is, we have to deliver the highest quality. A commitment to excellence is the only way to build and sustain a strong reputation in the market.
What inspires you to create new collections year after year? What is your latest jewellery collection about?
I find most of my inspiration from nature. It continues to be the foundation of my creative journey. In our jewellery, we aim to use only the finest gems sourced from around the world. While we often use Colombian emeralds, we also work with unheated Burmese rubies, Kashmir sapphires and rare coloured diamonds – blue, green, pink, yellow and red, whenever we are able to find the right ones in the market.
We serve a globally diverse client base – from the Middle East to Southeast Asia and Europe and thus create a new collection almost every 2 to 3 months. Our offerings range from exquisite natural diamond sets to bespoke bridal and wedding pieces. Through our wide network of agents, we also make jewellery for celebrities and royal families.
We keep a close eye on fashion trends, especially tracking Paris Fashion Week and other important events to see which colours are trending.
Our most recent important collection is the Sunrise collection, which features 100 carats of vivid yellow diamonds in a necklace, accompanied by matching 30-carat yellow diamond earrings and a 35-carat yellow diamond ring.
We recently made a particularly special set adorned with 450 carats of unheated Burmese rubies; it took us nearly 25 years to create it because of the scarcity of Burmese rubies in the market. (pictured below)
Who are the craftsmen who bring your designs to life?
We have different divisions for cutting, polishing, grading, and manufacturing. Each division has experts that have been working with us for 20 to 30 years.
How do today’s contemporary tastemakers influence the way jewellery is collected and appreciated?
In the past, we would see celebrities wearing jewellery that they actually owned. But now, we see more brand endorsements and less jewellery that is owned by celebrities. While celebrities may offer valuable visibility for brands, such promotion doesn’t always translate to actual sales.
We have also observed a shift in priorities between collectors from different generations. In the past, we would see jewellery buyers not focusing so consciously on high-end quality diamonds. They used to opt for big stones and on I, J, K colours.
However, we now receive more requests for D-flawless diamonds. Over the past five years, preferences have shifted; the newer generation conducts extensive research before making any purchase. They are highly focused on quality, and if they are going to spend their money on something, it has to be of the best quality.
What’s trending in the German jewellery market? How does it differ from other European markets?
In reality, jewellery trends across Europe are largely less similar. Buyers with the means to buy fine jewellery are increasingly focused on high-quality pieces that preserve their investment value. As buyers prioritise discretion and quiet elegance, the trends are shifting away from overly ornate or flashy designs towards more classical, timeless creations. For example, they may choose to wear an important stone or a significant diamond in a simple sophisticated design rather than one adorned with a large cluster of diamonds. Something that is simple yet makes a statement at the same time.
In your opinion, how can the natural diamond market evolve through its ongoing challenges?
The natural diamond market has seen some notable challenges in the recent past. However, these hurdles have acted as a reawakening for the industry. As for LGDs, I think it has been established that they do not hold or appreciate in value. At the same time, the natural diamond industry must work to rebuild trust in natural diamonds. There is also an urgent need to establish a clear distinction between LGDs and natural diamonds, as new buyers are becoming increasingly confused. LGDs are synthetics and should not even be called diamonds.
There is no way to replace a diamond that has been created over millions of years beneath the earth. Purity in the jewellery market will always gain value and thus be preferred over treated stones or lab-grown alternatives. This is why we never treat the natural-coloured stones that we own.
For now, those who want to buy and can afford higher-priced diamonds are opting for coloured diamonds – pink, blue, greens, and yellow – which are rarer than whites. I also feel the value of natural white diamond will recover, but it could take one to two years for that to happen.
What advice would you offer to emerging designers and jewellery students aspiring to build the next major brand in the industry?
Firstly, breaking into the jewellery market and establishing a new brand today is incredibly challenging. Patience is the most important virtue for anyone who wants to enter this field and succeed, as gaining acceptance as a new brand won’t happen overnight. Secondly, one needs to identify a clear gap in the market and offer something unique.
To establish a new brand now, substantial marketing budgets and resources are required. That said, if one is truly committed, there is still a possibility of carving out space and creating a successful brand. However, it will require time and strategic thinking.