Yehouda Saketkhou, Founder-Owner & CEO, YAEL Designs, possesses a painter’s eye for colour and composition. An ardent admirer of the renowned surrealist artist, Salvador Dali and one of the most celebrated jewellery designers of our time, JAR, Yehouda uses a spellbinding palette of gemstones in his creations that have won him numerous accolades and awards across America. On reaching the 25th anniversary milestone this year, Yehouda unveiled Odyssey, a collection inspired by his travels around the world, expressed through the medium he knows best—jewellery. In an exclusive interview with Solitaire International, the award-winning virtuoso shares his perspectives on the art of jewellery making.
Yehouda Saketkhou’s acumen lies in crafting jewels that don’t go beyond the ephemeral trends, but they remain in vogue decades after they are brought to life! Jewellery for him is art, reflecting the influence of Dali and JAR. “I design my pieces to move through the changing fashions by sculpting wearable works of art that have substance and can be worn as easily today as they can 50 years from now,” he says.
He is also a die-hard globetrotter, and his designs draw cues from architectural marvels and natural wonders.
Born and raised in Iran and France in a family of jewellers, young Yehouda apprenticed in his uncle’s California shop. Inspired by his sister Yael, who was born with a mental disability, Yehouda established YAEL Designs in 2001. Yael’s influence, seen in her cut-out jewellery inspirations, sparked the inception of the design house.
He learnt early on that jewellery is also strongly tied to memories, milestones, and personal stories. “If our designs inspire someone to celebrate their own journey, then we’ve accomplished something far more meaningful than creating a beautiful object,” he notes.
When did you establish Yael Designs, and how has the journey been so far?
Though I’m not a first-generation jeweller, my path into the industry has always been driven by curiosity and creativity rather than tradition alone. I founded Yael Designs in 2001 in San Francisco with the idea that fine jewellery should be deeply personal and full of character. The company is named after my sister, Yael, who has always been a source of inspiration for me.
When we started, our focus was primarily on diamonds. Over time, I became fascinated by the individuality and emotion that coloured gemstones bring to a piece. That passion transformed the brand and became our signature. 25 years later, it’s incredibly rewarding to see collectors connect with our work not simply because of its craftsmanship, but because every piece tells a story.
What is the design philosophy behind your brand?
Our philosophy is simple: jewellery should express personality, not just luxury.
Every design begins with a narrative – a place, a memory, an architectural detail, or a remarkable gemstone. Rather than following trends, we focus on creating modern heirlooms that feel timeless yet distinctive. We combine exceptional craftsmanship with unexpected colour combinations and innovative gemstone cutting to create pieces that are elegant, wearable, and unmistakably individual.
Our motto, “What’s Your Color?”, reflects the belief that colour has the power to express identity in a way that words often cannot.
Yael Designs is one of the most awarded jewellery brands in the US. How many awards has the brand received so far, and what is the secret behind this remarkable achievement?
Over the years, Yael Designs has received more than 40 major industry awards and recognitions across prestigious competitions and design organisations in the United States.
Awards are certainly meaningful, but they have never been our goal. The real objective is to create something that feels fresh and unique. We aren’t afraid to combine unusual materials, experiment with proportions, or reinterpret classic forms through a contemporary lens.
Odyssey marks 25 years of YAEL Designs. Looking back, what have been the defining moments, travels, or encounters that shaped your creative language as a jewellery designer?
Travel has always been one of my greatest sources of inspiration because every destination offers a completely different perspective on every aspect of being.
Walking through the colourful streets of Jaipur, seeing the light reflect on the canals of Venice, standing beneath Gaudí’s architecture in Barcelona – each leaves a visual memory that stays with me long after I return home.
The Odyssey became a way to collect those memories. Rather than creating a retrospective of our past collections, I wanted to celebrate the places that expanded my imagination and ultimately influenced the evolution of Yael Designs over the last 25 years.
This collection draws inspiration from destinations such as India, Greece, Austria, and Australia. How did you translate the spirit of these countries — their architecture, landscapes, and artistic heritage — into wearable high jewellery?
The idea was to capture the feeling of each place.
India is reflected through rich emeralds and symmetrical patterns inspired by Mughal architecture. Austria explores elegance and precision through clean geometric forms and exceptional diamonds. Australia comes alive through vibrant black opals whose colours naturally echo the Great Barrier Reef. Santorini inspired fluid silhouettes and balanced compositions that evoke the movement of the sea and the harmony of classical design.
Every piece begins with research, sketches, photographs, and memories before evolving into something entirely new – an interpretation rather than a representation.
Yael Designs is celebrated for pairing exceptional diamonds with vibrant gemstones like Paraibas, opals, emeralds, and tourmalines. What draws you to colour, and how do you decide which stones best capture the essence of a place?
Colour creates emotion almost instantly.
The stones are chosen based on their personality rather than simply their rarity. Paraiba tourmalines possess an electric energy unlike any other gemstone; opals capture movement and changing light; emeralds communicate richness and history.
When designing for a destination, I ask myself what colour remains in my memory after I’ve left, and the answer usually leads me to the gemstone that tells the story most authentically.
As of today, which are the trending gemstones among your consumers?
We’re seeing tremendous interest in rare and distinctive coloured gemstones. Paraiba tourmalines continue to be highly sought after because of their extraordinary neon brilliance and scarcity. Alexandrites are attracting collectors who appreciate their remarkable colour-changing properties, while vibrant spinels and fine tanzanites are becoming increasingly popular as clients look for stones that are both exceptional and less conventional.
Consumers today are looking for individuality—they want gemstones that feel unique and personal rather than simply traditional.
If Odyssey is both a celebration of the past and a reflection of your travels, what do you hope collectors and connoisseurs emotionally experience when they wear these creations?
I hope they experience a sense of discovery.
Travel changes the way we see the world, and jewellery has the power to preserve those moments in a deeply personal way. Whether someone has visited these places or simply dreams of them, I want each piece to evoke curiosity, optimism, and wonder.
The collection celebrates not only 25 years of YAEL Designs, but also the idea that every journey shapes who we become. In that sense, every collector adds their own chapter to the story.