New York-based jewellery manufacturer Sasha Primak recently acquired Gemlok, a fine jewellery atelier founded more than 50 years ago and also based in New York. The atelier is renowned for its handcrafted lines and bridal collections, including its innovative Bridge Setting.
The acquisition is part of Sasha Primak’s long-term vision of building a portfolio of jewellery companies rooted in craftsmanship, innovation and established partnerships with independent retailers, the company said.
David Primak, CEO of Sasha Primak, speaks to Solitaire International via email.
What prompted Sasha Primak to acquire Gemlok, and what does its acquisition add to Sasha Primak’s existing business and capabilities?
First and foremost, Mimi Galli, President of Gemlok, is absolutely wonderful and won us over immediately. Beyond that, there were a lot of opportunities and synergies between the two companies.
The Gemlok brand is an opportunity to have a focused effort towards fine fashion jewellery created exclusively around natural colour stones. The independent retailers that Gemlok has historically worked with overlap with Sasha Primak’s accounts, making it an even more natural fit.
Sasha Primak has built its reputation on New York-based manufacturing, combining old-world craftsmanship with CAD/CAM, product development and modern jewellery technology. How will these capabilities complement Gemlok’s design heritage and expertise?
While we started implementing CAD and 3D printing many years ago, this is not something Gemlok has utilised until this point. We have been working closely with Mimi to find the opportunity points in Gemlok’s production process to make things easier with CAD and 3D printing while maintaining the integrity and craftsmanship of the design work.
Both Sasha Primak and Gemlok have built their identities around New York-based manufacturing. At a time when much jewellery production has moved overseas, what are the competitive advantages of continuing to manufacture in New York, and how do tariffs and changing global trade dynamics affect that decision?
Since we have complete control over our production process, do not outsource work and only sell domestically, we are somewhat insulated from the tariff situation. It does affect our costs as we purchase some of the raw materials and equipment, but it does not, in any way, impact our bigger picture business goals or decisions.
We find that by controlling production ourselves we can much better maintain the highest quality standards, continue improving techniques and processes, perform R&D, have cross departmental communication and provide a much better customer service experience to our clients through both communication and speed.
Gemlok has longstanding relationships with independent jewellers, while Sasha Primak works with independent retailers, heritage brands and private jewellers. How important are these relationships to the combined business?
There is somewhat of an overlap in the independent retailer customers that Gemlok and Primak work with, and that only helps both companies as well as the retailers. Primak will maintain its B2B manufacturing support, while Gemlok will be focused on growing its brand.
Gemlok is best known for its patented Bridge Setting and its heritage in bridal jewellery, but its portfolio extends well beyond wedding bands. How do you plan to build on this legacy while expanding the brand’s presence across the broader fine jewellery market?
We are currently working on and will soon be releasing new collections that are inspired by and built on the tradition of Gemlok’s Bridge setting, but re-imagined for a more modern and updated look. There are lots of fun and exciting concepts to build.
What do you see as the biggest opportunities and challenges for American fine jewellery manufacturing today—from changing consumer preferences and the demand for heirloom-quality craftsmanship to natural diamonds, technology and global competition?
The biggest challenge for American manufacturing remains labour competition. It is simply impossible for a NYC manufacturer to compete with overseas production. More and more factories are outsourcing work overseas or even to Mexico. We have absolutely no interest going down that path. We are doubling down and staying committed to investing in knowledge, skill and doing things the right way.
Does the acquisition signal Sasha Primak’s intention to build a larger portfolio of distinctive American jewellery brands?
I think we have more than enough to execute on before looking to the future. The first goal is to re-introduce a new and fresh Gemlok to the industry and to the marketplace.