The Future Belongs To Fancy-cut Diamonds

jewellery magazine

As fashion evolves, so does the language of diamond cuts. While classic rounds remain popular,  jewellery designers are becoming more experimental, opting for extraordinary  bespoke cuts that offer endless possibilities. These cuts allow for intricate forms and breathtaking light reflections, resulting in unique and luxurious pieces. 

The shift from classic rounds to fancy diamond cuts has been gradual but is gaining momentum. Fancy-cut diamonds not only enhance the artistic appeal of each piece but also resonate with consumers seeking exclusivity.  Advancements in stone-cutting techniques have further enabled these innovative designs, pushing the boundaries of craftsmanship, redefining luxury in fine jewellery.

Ishu Datwani, Founder, Anmol Jewellers, a high-end jewellery retailer, believes that the increasing popularity of fancy shapes is driven by unique aesthetics, modern trends, and celebrity influence. “For me, ‘fancies’ appear more distinctive than round diamonds because of the diverse and interesting shapes and angles, allowing customers to choose a diamond cut that suits their personal style.”

Nature-inspired Forevermark earrings crafted in white gold featuring brilliant-cut rounds, marquise and rose cut diamonds. By Anmol Jewellers

Datwani observes rising demand for pears, marquise, radiant, rose cuts, briolettes, and ovals. He believes that each fancy cut, whether it’s the elegant emerald, the romantic heart, or the striking marquise, brings its own personality to jewellery.

New-age jewellery artist Vishal Kothari, Founder & Creative Head, VAK Jewels, has a predilection for the portrait cut for it captivates him due to its refined and minimalist look.  He states, “It has an understated charm, almost like a floating mirror capturing light in its own quiet way, aligning beautifully with VAK’s ethos. We focus on  beauty in simplicity and craftsmanship. The portrait cut allows me to achieve that, making each piece feel light, delicate, and modern, yet steeped in heritage.”

The structured ear studs from the Shattered collection are centred on rare rectangular yellow diamonds, framed by emeralds and portrait diamonds that extend outward in a stunning burst of design. By VAK Jewels

Among Kothari’s other personal favourite cuts are antique rose, and step cuts, that help him “create a sense of architecture within the stone. These cuts bring out the unique character or charm of each gemstone. For me, more than just brilliance it’s about depth, character, and form, which adds layers to the jewellery and, ultimately, to the wearer’s experience.”

Kothari, who caters to clients seeking high-end, artisanal  jewellery, believes that fancy-cut diamonds add character to the piece, reflecting their individualistic choices. “Fancy cuts add a unique perspective, allowing light to interact in unexpected ways.  It’s not just about the sparkle, but also about the story, geometry, and artistry each stone conveys. The incorporation of unique cuts caters to those who see jewellery as an art form.”

Elaborating on his inclination towards unusual cuts, Saurabh Bhola, a high-end jewellery artist, notes, “I hold a profound admiration for ancient gemstones, likely rooted to my early immersion in the family jewellery business. Rather than viewing these stones as relics, I feel driven to extend their legacy by reimagining them in modern settings. On many occasions, I have had gemstones cut into unique shapes and intricate carvings to further enhance their individuality.”

Edgy, two-tone gold ear cuffs are fashioned with rows of baguettes, drop-cuts and brilliant-cut round diamonds. By Anmol Jewellers

Bhola’s passion for ancient gemstones has instilled in him a deep appreciation for the cuts traditionally associated with them, such as the old mine and old European cuts. Created entirely by hand with limited technology, these cuts possess an undeniable charm, whether in cushion, oval, lozenge, or briolette forms, he says, adding, “Recently, I had the privilege of working with an exquisite 5-carat portrait-cut Golconda diamond for a very special client. It’s a captivating, flawless stone that has become one of my most cherished pieces. Each of these stones seems to possess a silent narrative. When working with newer gemstones, however, I engage closely with master lapidarists – esteemed artisans who have collaborated with our family across generations. I visit them regularly throughout the creation process, ensuring that each piece fully embodies our shared artistic vision.”

Earrings from the Architectural Splendour collection feature an arch-shaped post, suspending two linear tassels that frame a triple-square motifs. The distinct design, inspired by Jaipur’s famous doors, is enhanced with a pattern of trapezoid-cut portraits, round rose cuts, and cabochon emeralds. By VAK Jewels

Design houses are increasingly collaborating with special lapidaries to custom-cut stones to suit the designs, while some have gem-cutting master craftsmen in-house. Kothari adds, “While we don’t cut all our gemstones in-house, our collaboration is deep. We guide and oversee the process to ensure every piece meets our exacting standards, and this partnership with skilled artisans allows us to explore unique shapes that are essential to VAK’s design language. It’s a balance of vision and craftsmanship, each piece shaped by skilled hands that understand the artistry of gemstone cutting.”

Premium for Fancies

Considering the intricate craftsmanship involved in creating fancy cut diamonds, fancy diamonds differ in their price range as compared to that of round diamonds.

“They often carry a premium over round diamonds due to the labour-intensive processes and the skill required to shape each unique facet,” notes Kothari, adding that the yield from rough stones when cutting fancy shapes is less, thus driving up their value. “For VAK, it’s not just about rarity but about creating something that is distinct, a piece that holds both intrinsic and emotional value. This craftsmanship inevitably reflects in the pricing, as we aim to deliver a design that’s rare, tailored, and timeless.”

At VAK, every cut, angle, and facet is a tribute to the tradition of jewellery-making, balanced with an exploration of modern minimalism. Our journey is about blending heritage and innovation, creating jewellery that feels as relevant today as it will decades from now.”

According to Bhola the pricing of a fancy -cut diamond depends on numerous factors, primarily the uniqueness of the cut itself. “Achieving the perfect shape often involves a significant sacrifice in stone weight, sometimes even more than the final carat weight achieved. In many cases, it’s an emotional endeavour rather than a purely practical one, driven by the vision of matching the stone precisely to the design sketch. Consequently, the price of a fancy-cut can vary widely in comparison to a traditional one.”

The stout, oval Scarab Brooch with golden legs is accented with a row of diamonds. Its mouth is articulated with an Old Mine Fancy, oval-cut Golconda diamond. By Saurabh Bhola

Bhola adds that his design philosophy centres on creating one-off pieces, often using avant-garde techniques. This creative freedom encourages him to push boundaries, and design a piece with unique diamond cuts. Irrespective of the premium, he believes, “Ultimately, it’s the special connection between the wearer and these unique pieces that makes the process so rewarding.”

The future clearly belongs to  fancy-cut diamonds, and they have the potential to dominate the market, observes Datwani. “While round cuts will likely always remain popular, the growing appreciation for unique and personalised jewellery designs suggests that fancies will continue to gain traction.”

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