The jewellery industry may be better positioned than many other luxury categories to capitalise on changing consumer values.
However, that natural alignment is not enough on its own to stimulate industry growth. Rather, changing consumer priorities should serve as the foundation for building stronger brands and better storytelling.
Recent research suggests those values are already reshaping the high-end retail landscape.
As Gen Z rewrites the rules of luxury, emotional connection, identity and self-expression are overtaking prestige and exclusivity as the primary drivers of desirability, according to the Business of Fashion-McKinsey report, Face to Face with Luxury Clients.
“The era of buying luxury mainly for status and visibility is giving way to something more personal, centred on identity, connection and self-expression,” the researchers wrote.
Redefining Luxury
Emotional connection now ranks as the leading driver of brand desirability across the US and China, the world’s two largest luxury markets, albeit for different reasons. The report found that US consumers are more influenced by values and identity, while Chinese consumers place greater emphasis on external expression and the shopping experience.
That evolution aligns with the traditional strengths of jewellery. As the report notes, in a market where consumers are becoming more selective, desire increasingly depends on whether a brand feels personally meaningful, reflecting a client’s taste, values, aspirations or identity.
“This is lifting categories such as jewellery that are associated with identity, emotion and self-expression,” the authors stressed.
Deloitte identified a similar shift even beyond the luxury market. Its 2026 Gen Z and Millennial Survey found younger generations increasingly define success in terms of well-being, purpose and personal fulfilment rather than traditional status. It is unsurprising that those priorities are increasingly reflected in how they consume luxury, where brands are under growing pressure to offer more than prestige.
Authenticity Matters
Those changing values are already influencing purchasing behaviour in the jewellery market, De Beers argued in its latest Diamond Acquisition Study. Consumers are buying diamonds to honour relationships, but increasingly also to celebrate achievements and personal milestones, De Beers noted.
In 2025, bridal jewellery accounted for just 25% of natural diamond demand in the US, while gifting represented 44% and self-purchase a further 31%, according to the study.
The report suggests that the shift extends beyond when consumers buy diamonds to what they value in them. It argues that authenticity is emerging as an important luxury attribute.
“In a world increasingly shaped by artificial intelligence, fake news and content designed to mimic the real thing, authenticity is becoming a premium in its own right,” the researchers wrote.
The Story Before the Sale
That presents a significant opportunity for natural diamonds. As consumers seek products with greater meaning, qualities such as rarity and the journey natural diamonds undertake are likely to resonate more strongly with consumers.
Whether those qualities should form the centrepiece of the industry’s messaging is another matter.
Category marketing from organisations such as De Beers and the Natural Diamond Council has increasingly emphasised provenance and origin as the emotional trigger through which those values are expressed.
That brings us back to the question of messaging.
An important discussion has been brewing within the industry over whether it is these values that should sit at the heart of marketing and branding, or whether the emphasis should remain on the unique physical attributes and beauty of the diamond or piece of jewellery.
Consultant Peter Smith, of The Retail Smiths, weighed in on that debate in a recent column for National Jeweler.
“Consumers buy emotionally and rationalise after the fact,” Smith wrote. “While origin can be a celebrated exclamation point on a customer’s decision to buy a diamond, it is not a compelling enough reason to have done so, and it should never be used to start that conversation.”
Building Desirability
That distinction feels important. Some of the industry’s current expressions of value, such as provenance and the origin story of the diamond, are intended to create an emotional connection. Yet they may instead serve as part of the rationalisation after the emotional decision has already been made.
It is a fine line the jewellery trade is walking as opportunities emerge to build challenger brands capable of competing with legacy names that have earned consumer trust over decades, if not centuries. Understanding what creates desirability has therefore become more important than ever.
As the Business of Fashion-McKinsey report concluded, “the question of what builds desirability has become more urgent. While external validation and social signalling still matter, luxury consumers increasingly want purchases that feel personal, distinctive and worth choosing for themselves.”
Perhaps the distinction is not between emotion and reason, but between attributes and aspiration. Provenance, authenticity and consistency should underpin a brand’s long-term positioning, but their value lies in the stories they enable rather than the facts themselves.
The question is not whether those qualities matter. Of course they do. The question is how they are translated into emotional connections that create desire, rather than simply reinforcing a purchase.
The industry’s challenge is not to convince younger consumers that luxury matters, but to tell its story in a way that creates emotional desire before reinforcing it with product attributes. The more effectively it builds brands that create desire before justifying the purchase, the more likely consumers are to see their own values reflected in the jewellery they aspire to wear.