Abhishek Rastogi, Head of Design, Jewellery Division, Titan Company Ltd., shares insights about the region-specific trends prevailing in the engagement ring category.
Though the concept of a diamond engagement ring is an imported trend, it has caught on in India very fast. And the retailers are not complaining. Diamond engagement rings are one of the key categories that are driving domestic retail sales, reveals the design chief of arguably the biggest jewellery retail chain in India.
Tanishq, the multi-retail brand which has 350 showrooms across India, has recently launched a campaign on its varied collection of mesmerising engagement rings – all sprinkled with diamonds – that have the right amount of edge and timeless beauty.
Abhishek Rastogi, Head of Design, Jewellery Division, Titan Company Ltd., speaks about the growing popularity of this category.
Tanishq has 350 showrooms across the country. Do you see any region-specific preferences in the engagement ring category?
There are two aspects: the first is about the four Cs of diamonds that play a major role in the selection of engagement rings. For instance, in the North, especially, Delhi, Haryana, Punjab, customers emphasise on the size of the solitaire – they opt for the big look as it is associated with being a status symbol that hints at how well-to-do the couple is. So, the size of the solitaire is of paramount importance … I guess the larger the size of the gem, greater the love between the two!
In the South, especially in Tamil Nadu and Karnataka, the colour and clarity of the diamond takes precedence, because they believe that any ‘dosham’ or inclusion in the gem may bring bad luck to the wearer.
The second aspect is the design perspective. I’d say that the design aesthetics across all metros and the bigger cities in the country are similar. Customers from this geography are aware of international trends, and their purchasing decision is driven largely by design.
But in the smaller cities of India, we tend to see a lot of regional preferences in terms of techniques, material, and design. Engagement rings are viewed from a traditional angle. For instance, in Kolkata, consumers opt for a filigreed gold ring with a hint of diamonds; in Mangalore, the Vanki ring is popular; and Tamil Nadu consumers generally go for a ring featuring diamonds with close setting ring.
How big is the trend here of including coloured gemstones in a diamond engagement ring?
This is a Western trend that got popular with Kate Middleton’s heirloom sapphire engagement ring. Since then, consumers have started looking at engagement rings beyond diamonds.
Trends from the West gradually percolate to India and we are seeing demand for diamond engagement rings with a pop of colour. There is an inclination for rubies and to some extent, emeralds, too.
But what we are seeing is the usage of the humble pearl, and demand for it is only becoming stronger.
Any gold tone that is preferred?
In an engagement ring, the prime focus is the solitaire and the rest of the gems or even gold, play a supporting role. However, yellow gold takes precedence in this category, followed by rose gold. There’s not much demand for white gold in the engagement ring segment, save in metros and cities.
I also believe that yellow gold or rose gold looks fabulous on the Indian skin tone. That could be one of the reasons for its popularity.
Stackable rings are more of a fashion statement. How have they found their way in the engagement rings?
This is largely a metro phenomenon, and again, this trend drift is coming from the Western world. Earlier, one had the concept of wearing an engagement ring, followed by a wedding band. Now, consumers in the West are exploring different band options, which can be stacked together – some can be plain gold, some can have only baguettes or all round diamonds, and some just set with a row of colour gemstones. They are sleek, minimal, and can be stacked together.
This trend borrowed from the fashion jewellery space, is finding its way into the fine jewellery space. But, I’d say it still is largely a Western trend. It’s a phenomenon which is still very restrictive in nature, and not so big in India.
However, since consumers are celebrating important personal milestones, say a fifth or sixth anniversary, it can play a very important role there.
A crucial aspect of stacked rings is that it takes the seriousness out of the formal occasion, and makes it more fun and casual. It’s more about making a personal statement and styling. We are seeing some demand for it.
Are we seeing any specific tilt towards diamond cuts?
Rounds, I’d say, are evergreen and highly preferred in our country.
With regard to diamonds, the Indian market is still at a very nascent stage. Unlike the West, India is not a mature market yet in the diamond jewellery space. Consumers are still exploring or flirting with diamonds. The first-time buyers always go for round cuts; then, they graduate to fancy cuts – it could be an Asscher, emerald or a princess cut. But for the ring segment, it is largely rounds that consumers go for. That’s our experience at Tanishq.