Artful expression, by a selection of designers, blossom into jewels tricked out in Muzo emeralds.
This summer, Colombian emerald miner Muzo decided to turn everyone green with envy at the Couture Show. The stones – roughs, beads, slices, cabochons and tumbles – had stories to tell, and Muzo hand-picked a bunch of designers, noted names and newer talents, to collaborate on its Phase 1 project. Muzo has become synonymous with emeralds, says Gabbi Harvey, head of business development and designer outreach for the company.
The group of designers firmly on board this year’s Phase-1 collaboration are Adina Reyter, Alice Cicolini, Ana Carolina Valencia, Ara Vartanian, Castro, Dana Bronfman, Daniela Villegas, Katherine Jetter, Kimberly McDonald, Marina B, Mateo, Mercedes Salazar, Noor Fares, Selim Mouzannar, The Rock Hound, Tres Almas, Venyx and Victor Velyan. Each of them, with an individual approach, has delineated the diversity of the gems. These are designers who could best showcase Muzo’s organic material, explains Gabbi. In a faultless pairing of Muzo’s green gems with the signature style of the designers, the creations blossom through artful expressions that reference nature, shamanic healing and mystical organisms, among others, managing to capture the gorgeousness of the verdant gems.
Lebanese designer Selim Mouzannar’s vision for Muzo is a classic necklace in oval motifs set with emeralds surrounded by diamond halos and accented with black enamel. “It’s a unique piece developed in the spirit of the Mina collection, the first enamel collection for my namesake brand,” says Selim.
Jewellery designer Alexandra Mor offers an eco-conscious slant by combining an unexpected element, a humble tagua nut to complement two beautiful green beads. Australian jeweller Katherine Jetter’s artistic creations, seen in her earrings and pendants, encloses vibrant tumbles in diamond pavéd gold cages, while Tahitian pearls sit alongside the emerald beads in a statement necklace that makes a modern interpretation. London-based designer Eugenie Niarchos dreams up a luscious tiered emerald and diamond necklace for her brand Venyx. Kimberly McDonald’s earrings with hints of black, Mateo’s delicate pieces and Ana Carolina Valencia’s intricate filigree technique showcase the wide berth of their talent. Castro, drawn to the spider’s web and its silken structure, has envisioned his jewel as an angel. Royal purple garnets and opals accent the insects that crawl on the Muzo emeralds.
Bright pops of colour mark the chain necklace by The Rock Hound. “I’ve chosen to call the collection Emeralds in the Rough. I wanted to give the wearer a sense of the polished slices emulating the outer form of their original crystal. The form of the polished gem is replicated in 9-karat Fairtrade white gold beads using the pop of nano-ceramic colour, which we are known for, to sit playfully alongside the Muzo emerald,” explains Susi Smither, designer and founder of the brand.
Los Angeles-based designer Daniela Villegas loves “the philosophy of Muzo.” It is very important to have good energy since the beginning of the creation and to have a clean process, she stresses. “In my creative process, I put a lot of attention into details and symbolism that I want to express through the design. Besides, green is my favourite colour and emerald colour is so specific and beautiful,” says Daniela. This year, she has created two whimsical pieces, using Muzo emeralds, both inspired by nature – a frog in emeralds and a baby chameleon adorned with emeralds and diamonds. The frog represents the creative energies of awakening and transformations, while the chameleon, transformed into a ring, symbolises awareness and intuition. “It has been a pleasure to work with these stones; they inspire me with a sense of abundance,” she adds.
Mercedes Salazar is in love with Colombia, its flora and fauna. Her colourful and playful design aesthetics evolve into four pieces for Muzo. This limited-edition collection takes its inspiration from the ‘Shamanic Flight’ and its concept of powerful healing. “One of the jewels is a Kirigai necklace inspired by the special shaman, who puts the information and universal powers into a basket to be able to bring and share them with humanity. Other jewels reference the Jaguar Shaman, king of the jungle, and the Bat Shaman, the guide of the dark nights,” adds Mercedes.
Colombian jewellery brand Tres Almas has chosen to craft a ring – a hexagonal trapiche emerald is the protagonist of this design story.
“We opted for rose gold as our metal of choice, as we think it is an unexpected yet stunning way to complement the green tone of the emeralds, and we added light blue for an unexpected twist. Blue and green just go so well together,” says Andrea Jaramillo. Indeed, the hexagons, rose gold, dots and blue sapphires pair up well. Tres Almas has designed a ring and a matching pair of earrings outfitted in Muzo emeralds.
Harnessing their skills, these designers have crafted jewels in a pleasing blend of textures, colours, shapes and forms, all in green – and for the love of emeralds.