Peridot is the central gemstone in this treasure trove of contemporary designs created for The Design Celebration competition organized by Fuli Gemstones.
Fuli Gemstones, which owns the world’s largest known peridot deposit located in Dunhua, Jilin, China, strongly believes in championing new design talent.
The Design Celebration, now in its second year, turned out to be the perfect arena to put the spotlight on the region’s rising talent. Peridot sparkles in original works of rising designers “We wanted it to be a celebration of the up-and-coming jewellery designers in China and worked with the GAC to put the project together,” says Pia Tonna, CMO, Fuli Gemstones. “The design brief was for the designers to find inspiration in their Chinese heritage, working with Fuli Gemstones’ vibrant coloured, natural peridot.”
The whole process took around 12 months and culminated in the selected designs being produced and unveiled at the China International Jewellery Fair in 2020, in Beijing, observes Pia. Of the 668 submissions, a handful stood out with their fresh designs hinged on unbridled imagination and a mastery of material. This project gave the bright young things an opportunity to present their designs at a prestigious show such as the China International Jewellery Fair.
The panel of judges comprised Shen Wenguang, Director of Fine Arts Institute, Master of Arts and Crafts in Beijing; Zhang Fan, Associate Professor of Decoration Department, Central Academy of Fine Arts, China’s outstanding designer; Tian Yi, Managing Editor-in-Chief of Bazaar Jewelry; Alessio Boschi, award-winning Italian jewellery designer; and Tasso Von Berlepsch, General Manager of Chopard, China.
“I was extremely impressed by the creativity of each designer whose work was on exhibition. Fuli stands for natural innovation combined with positive change…this cultural celebration gave each designer an opportunity to have their work recognised globally,” says Haiyang Yu, Chairman of Fuli Gemstones. “They garnered the exposure they needed and so deserved,” adds Pia.
Simon Huang’s Harvest Expecting brooch, a delightful piece of jewellery, takes its inspiration from nature. His award-winning creation reveals tiny diamond-encrusted birds perched on a stem laden with pear-cut peridots. Realised in yellow gold, the metal casts a warm glow as though the birds and ears of wheat are bathed in sunshine. “In this work, peridot represents the green (unripe) ears of wheat, which symbolises rebirth, abundance and prosperity,” explains Simon. On his choice of jewellery style, a brooch, Simon points out that most people inevitably think of earrings, rings, pendants or necklaces when imagining jewellery, but his research on the jewellery worn by the royal families, celebrities and politicians led him to an interesting discovery – brooches. “They wear brooches all the time. Besides, among all wearable jewellery, the brooch lies closest to our chest; it is also the closest to our heart,” he adds.
Some creations have employed bespoke cuts, while some have been embellished using existing cut and polished inventory from Fuli Gemstones. “There was such an array of peridot gemstones used, that’s what’s great about the nature of peridot; it can be cut into a myriad of creative shapes,” says Pia.
Emerging talent Liu Sun referenced lotus ponds in gardens for her winning suite, entitled A Lotus Pond. “While lotus ponds fascinate me, I’d rather say that it is nature itself that makes me feel serene,” says the designer, whose 18-karat yellow gold offering includes earrings, necklace and ring – all adorned with pearls and unconventional cut peridot.
Another noteworthy creation comes from Lilian includes ring, bracelet and earrings. Titled Living with Bamboo, the design is rooted in cultural context and yet has a very geometric, modern form. “For me, life is the intersection of traditional culture and my own style,” she says. The series of Living with Bamboo mirrors a lifelike scene with green bamboo and flying swallows outside the window. “The simplified shape of the window, and the modern style of an inlaid bamboo forest, help to form a unique appearance of this work, which can make people comfortable and relaxed,” explains Lilian.
Other designers whose stunning jewellery bagged the top spots at the Cultural Design Celebration include Mervin Liu; his New Core tiepin-brooch, imagined in white gold, peridot and diamonds, draw on ancient Chinese window grilles. Lingjuan Li’s Dunhuang Revisited yellow gold cuff is adorned with peridot and diamonds; Yan Wong’s Heroic Bloom necklace adorned with peridot and diamonds is realised in white gold – the design evokes a dandelion afloat on a misty morning; Nino Wen’s Peace Nest with peridot is crafted in gold vermeil; Limit Wu’s Harmony Cuff featuring peridot is set in yellow gold; and Laura Lai’s Deep Forest Whispers celebrate the beauty of peridot and diamonds in the form of earrings and pendant made in yellow gold.
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